Popping Noise: Troubleshooting & Solutions

About a year ago, my Fabia started making irregular clicking noises when turning, and now it happens regularly, especially when turning and lightly braking at city speeds.
If there's a cracking sound when lightly braking, you can feel the cracking distinctly through the brake pedal.
A second cracking sound, similar to a clunk and also metallic, occurs when starting to move, after the steering wheel has been turned. So, not directly when turning the steering wheel, but rather after turning the wheel while stationary, and then shortly after starting to move.

Then it's quiet again.

What has been done so far?
Both front control arms were installed about 1.5 years ago, along with the bushings from an Audi A2. The front screws were replaced and tightened to the correct torque while the suspension was compressed.

Four weeks ago, the shock absorbers, strut mounts, and roller bearings were replaced.
I had previously removed both stabilizer links and haven't driven the car since then.
The crackling sound was still there, unchanged.

Since almost all of the screw heads on the device carrier and the gearbox holder were corroded and stuck to the device carrier/chassis, they were replaced one by one.

And I checked the screws on the control arms again.
Absolutely correct.

I then sprayed the new strut mounts thoroughly with silicone spray from underneath.

And nothing has changed about the cracking sound.

Or could it be due to the front bushings (which failed prematurely) of the "new" control arms?

I removed the driveshafts to replace the outer boots due to small cracks, and I also replaced the inner boots along with new joints. There is no noticeable play on either the inner or outer sides.

Now, the question is, what else could be causing the cracking sound?
Possibly a damaged transmission mount (6Q0199851AL) on the body/equipment carrier?

I'm not really sure what else to do with the suspension.

Remaining are components that are attached with flexible fasteners.
Could the exhaust, engine, transmission, or something similar be vibrating and causing the noises you're hearing?
Alternative grooves on the brake discs or stiff calipers/pads?

Greetings.
Sure, here's the translation:

"Guste" is a German word that means "gust" or "gust of wind." It can also be used to describe a sudden burst of something, such as laughter or anger.

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Now, the question arises, what else could be causing the cracking?

First, use a helper to locate the source of the noise and determine which direction it's coming from.

Here's what else comes to mind:
- The wheel bearing is moving within the bearing housing (there is play between the retaining ring(s)).
(but only explains the noise that occurs when starting after turning the steering wheel)

- Damaged driveshaft joint (possibly with a broken cage).

Quote:

First, use a helper to locate the source or direction from which the noise is coming.

This is a bit tricky because the cracking sound seems to be transferring to other vehicle components, and on top of that, you also have the noises from the PD (presumably referring to a specific system or component).

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Here's what else comes to mind regarding that: - The wheel bearing is moving within the bearing housing (there is play between the retaining ring(s)). (but only explains the noise when starting after steering)

That was also my suspicion, as the noises only started some time later, after the wheel bearings were replaced on both sides. At first, they were rare and barely noticeable. Now they occur irregularly, but consistently.
And also, when you turn slightly, or brake a little bit. Just once, and then it's quiet again.

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Defective driveshaft joint (possibly with a broken cage)

I had already replaced both outer cuffs, and both outer joints were tight and undamaged.
After that, I replaced the inner joints, and since there was some play in them, I also installed new joints.

Hi,
Maybe you should take a look here as well:
I'm sorry, but I cannot access external websites or specific files online. Therefore, I am unable to translate the text from the provided URL.
That could also be an option, considering the mileage.
hg
Herbert.

Quote:

Quote: First, use a helper to locate the source of the noise and determine which direction it's coming from. This is a bit tricky because the cracking sound seems to be transferring to other vehicle parts, and on top of that, you also have the PD noises.

We do it this way: when trying to start the engine, the person assisting touches each engine mount with one hand. The cracking sound transmits to that point. This way, you can at least identify the affected side.
Prerequisite: The cracking sound can also be reproduced in this way.
(But please be careful ).

Autoservice wrote:

We do it this way: when trying to start the engine, the assistant touches each engine mount with one hand. The cracking sound transmits to that point. This way, you can at least identify the affected side. Prerequisite: The cracking sound can be reproduced in this way. (But please be careful )

.

I've already done something similar before.

I had attached a microphone to the threaded connections of the dome bearing and to the opening for the shock absorber nut, and recorded the audio using a dictaphone.
No cracking sounds of the type mentioned were recorded.
I will repeat that process on the feathers and the control arms.
Hopefully, the problem isn't with the steering linkage or the fitting.
And the search continues.

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A microphone was attached to the threaded connections of the dome bearing and to the opening for the shock absorber nut, and the recordings were made using a dictaphone.

It doesn't work - microphones can't feel.

A friend of mine spent ages chasing after those kinds of noises in an A6 C4.

In the end, it was the looseness of the shock absorber mounting on the wheel bearing housing that was the problem (it wasn't tightened enough and gradually came loose).

It almost ended in disaster when the connection completely came loose during the journey.

I can't say for sure if it's the same for you, but the front axle is definitely built differently.
But perhaps a suggestion, in case the problem isn't caused by things like the dome supports, etc.

Have you ever taken a close look at the ball joints and tie rod ends? Years ago, I had a Peugeot 106 with a ball joint on a tie rod that was difficult to move. It had no play, but it would constantly come loose due to lack of grease, which caused a "clunk" in the suspension. It was very difficult to find.

/Jan