DPF full

I will be bringing in a 2004 Passat with a BGW system, factory-installed DPF, and a urea filling tank located in the spare tire well, for repairs on Thursday.
Problem: At 250,000 km, the first DPF is installed. Fuel consumption, according to the onboard computer when the engine is warm, is 12-17 liters per 100 km. When the engine is off and then restarted, the consumption is normal again, but after about 10 km, it becomes too high again. The oil level is rising! "A while ago, when I read the data from the FC (fault code), there was an issue with the DPF (diesel particulate filter) and ash mass. At that time, I could only read a value of '255' at approximately 200,000 km."

Can you simply empty the DPF? Replacing the DPF isn't worth it anymore for this old car. It seems that forced regeneration is probably no longer possible, as I read here, because a certain amount of ash has been exceeded.

Quote:

Can a DPF be simply emptied?

Forbidden.

Self-cleaning might be difficult with this system, but what's wrong with sending the DPF to one of the commercial "cleaning" services?

Best regards, Rainer.

"But being forbidden is not the only problem, although it might be the least significant... surely, the measurement technology will reveal that something is wrong, right?"

Okay.

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Self-cleaning might be difficult with this system

.

. "Just experiencing burnout alone definitely won't achieve anything (from my own experience)."

The filter contains residue from the additive Satacen (not urea), which appears to be iron oxides (rust). It is questionable whether the filter will ever be completely clear again.

To be honest, I would replace the filter. Everything else is just a hassle, or a waste of time.
The second problem is the dosing pump for the additive... This stuff is highly toxic! At a similar company, protective clothing, including an ABC protective mask, is required for working with it. People really don't want to work on it there. If the dosing pump doesn't work correctly, the filter won't be able to regenerate automatically. I personally experience temperatures
which can only measure temperatures up to approximately 350°C. That's nothing.

However, there are ways to eliminate the filter, both in hardware and software.
You just have to search a little.

Edit: With proper maintenance (filter, differential pressure sensor, etc.). The software update, inspection of the dosing pump, etc., suggest that the vehicle is likely a total loss - unfortunately.

Due to frequent inspections, the oil is usually changed before the engine fails.
Sure, a new one costs too much considering the age of the car .
What about burning out the burner completely and then rinsing it?

Quote:

What about burning out a burner when it's fully expanded, and then rinsing it?

It's hard to forget something; it takes forever. If that's the case, then it needs to go in the oven - but that won't bring back the "other" residues either.

The problem is the insufficient flow rate during the rinsing process, which prevents the complete filter area from being flushed/cleaned.

I started like this:

1. Attempt:
- Gearbox forcibly regenerated, filter removed after the cooling process. The filter was flushed towards the engine.
The result was disappointing. I don't think more than 30% of the filter area was actually exposed.

2. Try again in a week.

- Forced regeneration, filter removed, and soaked in "Tuneup" filter cleaner for a long time. You can also inject the substance, but since the filter can be removed in 5 minutes, I took it off.
- Installed the filter (with cleaner) and drove 10 km on the highway, experiencing significant smoke emissions.
- Filters were removed and flushed. No more ash came out, only a seemingly endless supply of red, rusty liquid.
- Fill the filters multiple times with acetic acid, let it sit, and continue rinsing. Repeat the process until no more rust liquid comes out.

Then, I used a thin wire to check how far I could insert it into the tubes - all the way to the back.

Finally, filters have been installed. Conclusion: In my opinion, this is a complete waste of time. I certainly won't repeat this process on a vehicle like this (with an additive). Instead, I'll either replace the part or send it back.

If you are willing to attempt it, you should consider replacing the differential pressure sensor, checking the temperature sensors for plausibility, and performing a software update, if available.

Here are filters for 300 EUR.
http://www.auspuffanlage.de/Diesel Particulate Filter - Diesel Particulate Filter for Volkswagen - for Volkswagen - Passat - VW Passat 3B3 3B6 2.0 TDi - Diesel Particulate Filter - Particulate Filter / a55449405_u8758_zeacc08fd-bc65-4986-af4e-c6df6809877d /

Don't forget to check the dosing pump!

Autoservice wrote:

And don't forget to check the dosing pump!

Hello Autoservice!

I'm bringing this thread back up because I have a question about it. I don't own a Passat, but it's also a VW with Satacen and a DPF (it's a Touareg)...

My question relates to the comment about the dosing pump. I have never heard of a defective dosing pump before. How do you even check that?

Sure, no problem!

Regards,
v10tdi

I would try using the actuator test in VCDS and see if it's being activated.