VW Touran: Driving Without AC - 2005 Model

Hello, unfortunately, my engine failed at 153,000 km while I was overtaking in a sharp left-hand curve. It made a loud "thump" sound before it stopped working.

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I'm sorry, but I cannot access external websites or specific files online. Therefore, I am unable to translate the text from the provided URL.

repaired

Okay, now it's time for the final test drive and refrigerant filling.

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Now it's time for the final test drive and filling with refrigerant.

Is it allowed to drive with an empty air conditioning system?

Because our compressors are ALWAYS running!

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Is it allowed to drive with an empty air conditioning system?

He hopefully didn't drain everything out; compressor oil should still be present in the system even when it's depressurized.

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Trost KSM cannot afford to offer low-cost products in the long term.

Absolutely - except for the cheap labor from the nursing home... no delivery without complaints, just incompetent monkeys when you try to resolve issues over the phone, and that's with business customers!
never again

The amount of coolant remaining was down to just 10 grams.
The refrigerant was recently replaced with 530 grams and the cooling is working great.
Motor power is okay, load disturbance is well maintained and regulated.
The top part is still a bit stiff, as before, but maybe that's due to the injectors (153,000 km). Could they be clogged? I mean, I've heard something about noise related to the 2-liter PDE engines.

Okay, it's not all settled yet.
The outside temperature sensor, which I replaced just a month ago due to the same issue, is still malfunctioning intermittently and displaying -39 *C or "-- --" on the instrument cluster (KI) and in VCDS. The problem was a connector in the wheel well/radiator area on the front left side, where a pin was retracted inside the connector despite proper contact. Now it's showing a plausible 25 degrees C again.
Okay, but what is the value to the right of that, which has been corrected by the STG? It says -41 degrees. Solar radiation: zero.
Is it adapting or is something wrong?

teileklaus wrote:

Okay, but what is the value to the right of that, which has been corrected by the STG? It says -41 degrees. Solar radiation: zero. Is it adjusting or is something wrong?

Okay, I'm more familiar with "solar radiation" from climate control systems! Are you sure it's actually stated that way in the MSTG (Motor Steuergerät - Engine Control Unit)? -41°C indicates a faulty sensor, broken cable, or corrosion of connectors, etc. Could this perhaps be the temperature sensor for the engine itself or on the coolant return line?

Hello, I was in the climate control module (I wrote "STG" instead of "MStGt"), and there it showed an implausibly high outside temperature value before the connector repair. Afterwards, it matched the actual outside temperature of plus 25 degrees Celsius. However, next to that is a negative value labeled "corrected," which shows -41 degrees Celsius, and I don't understand what that means.
I thought that the sensor in the bumper, which measures 25 degrees when exposed to sunlight, might transmit a value that is corrected by about 5 degrees higher than what I expect. But it says "minus," which doesn't make sense.
I will only be able to read the data tomorrow evening and write down the values.
Even with the 3-8-11 pattern and air mass, it's still taking a while because I'm working this weekend.
The intercooler should be better than before with the new rings; everything is tight. The catalytic converter might still cause some issues if there's any oil present, but there's no blue smoke coming from it.
The engine has already clocked 150,000 km, so that would be my first suspect if the air mass was too low.

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The mass airflow sensor (LMM) already has 150,000 km on it, so that would be my first suspect if the air mass is too low.

If you're considering replacing the LMM (lambda sensor), make sure to use an original part or a Bosch product.
Everything else fails about 99% of the time.

Sure, I've always used Bosch products.

Okay, climate control system... Could a temperature sensor in the climate unit be faulty? Would the AC still cool if that were the case? If so, it's probably not the evaporator sensor. It could be one of the ventilation flap sensors, such as those for footwell, top, middle vents, or intake air before the blower fan, etc.
It's indicated in the measurement block below the temperature reading, for example, "G20" means sensor 20. What does it say on yours? This will help us identify which sensor is causing the issue.

dieselmartin wrote:

Quote: Now it's time for the final test drive and filling with refrigerant. Is it allowed to drive with an empty air conditioning system? Because our compressors are ALWAYS running!!!

Sure, it's okay to drive around with an empty refrigerant system. Just look at how many vehicles, even modern ones, are driving around with the "always-running" compressor that is completely empty.
Many people only notice in the fall that their air conditioning system isn't working for the winter, because the refrigerant often leaks out through a faulty condenser and is lost after traveling thousands of kilometers.
Some people simply do it to save money – they just lower the windows and that's it; it worked like that in the past too.
The compressor typically contains around 50-130 ml of oil, depending on the type of compressor, while the rest of the system usually has about 20-50 ml, again depending on the specific setup.