Diesel in engine oil - this is slowly becoming a critical issue

The proportion of diesel in my engine oil is now almost 15% after 7000km.
I have been changing my engine oil every 7000km for years because I
noticed that the engine oil was increasing significantly. I have to start draining it after 5000km because it exceeds the maximum mark (when I change the oil, I always fill it to the minimum mark - 3.7 liters).
So I have often sent the oil to the lab to find out what was causing the increase.

Please provide the latest inspection report - I'm now at almost 15% diesel content.

It has already been changed, the tandem pump, 1st sealing of the PDE elements - then all 4 PDE elements were completely replaced! - none of this made any difference - the diesel content in the engine oil is constantly increasing with the total operating hours.

Since my driving style hasn't changed and the proportion of diesel is increasing, I also rule out the possibility that the problem is due to how the car is driven. Otherwise, the problem would have to remain the same.

Does anyone else have any ideas?

[quote]Does anyone else have any ideas? [/quote]

For example, there could still be a hairline crack or a leak in the ZK between the fuel channel and the oil drain :cry:

However, it is noticeable that the measurement, which was taken when the vehicle was being used during the warmer months, only showed 5% diesel content. Therefore, it could be assumed that the active regeneration lasts longer during the winter months and should be considered as a contributing factor.

The amount of ash also increases with every kilometer driven, so the cycles between rain intervals become shorter...

Is the engine software up to date?

Unfortunately, all of this is speculation.

Regarding regeneration cycles, I can state with 100% certainty that he always regenerates after 380km. This has been the case from day one and continues to be so.

I then always reset the daily mileage counter to zero, so I know when the next one will occur. This allows me to almost always avoid having to stop the vehicle when regeneration is about to start. Or to plan a shopping/city trip differently than intended.

If I miss it or don't notice it, I can quickly check with VCDS when it's time again - but as I said, I've got the hang of it - and I never miss it - every 380km!

The load is then somewhere between 3% (!!) or even 12% (after 380km!) - so it's still many times more than what would be needed for a 50% regeneration trigger. Therefore, I have never experienced this type of regeneration trigger - I'm quite sure about that.

[quote]Does anyone else have any ideas?[/quote]

As a test, remove the DPF and disable the after-injection/regeneration.
Then drive as normal.
You'll see no oil dilution, less fuel consumption, and no more stress.
After the test, reinstall and check.

[quote]Temporarily remove the DPF and disable the after-injection/regeneration.

Then drive as normal.
You will see, no oil dilution, less consumption and no more stress. icon_wink.gif

After the test, reinstall and check. icon_cool.gif[/quote]



It's very easy with the older PD engines, should be possible for any chip tuner;

Do you perhaps drive very short distances? I cannot confirm that I have had problems with increased oil consumption in my 2.0 PD-TDI. Is the coolant temperature (i.e. the thermostat) okay?

Best regards, Rainer

[quote="dieselschrauber"]Do you perhaps drive very short distances? I can't confirm that I have had problems with increased oil consumption in my 2.0 PD-TDI. Is the coolant temperature (i.e., the thermostat) okay?

Best regards, Rainer[/quote]

Yep, the thermostat provides plausible values - I also had the thermostat replaced 2 years ago, after which the engine started heating up a little faster.

So, I've been using the same driving profile for 8 years and have always made sure that my vehicles (including this one) are not primarily used in urban traffic.

We have a great infrastructure here where I live, and I can do almost everything by bike, including shopping, post, bank, town hall, etc.

I drive to Rastatt (35km) and back several times a week, usually in the afternoon and evening, which keeps the engine warm.
This commuting accounts for 80-90% of my driving.

If I need to buy heavy items that I can't carry by bike, I'll do that at the end of the trip – either from Rastatt or I'll shop there.
Even though my local supermarket is only 1km away, I don't use it. This can easily be organized with a little "brainpower."

If regeneration is starting, I'll complete it, even if it means taking a slightly longer route. I would never stop the vehicle during a regeneration phase.

In winter, below 4 degrees, I always run the heating for 30-40 minutes before starting the engine. I can honestly say that my engine has never started in freezing temperatures – not even once.

I'm well aware that the 35km isn't exactly a long distance.
Furthermore, there's also the "complicating" factor that I usually travel the 35km on "winding roads". But I don't really see myself as an "extreme short-distance driver".

And furthermore - as I've said - my driving profile hasn't changed! However, the increasing amount of diesel fuel in the engine oil is continuously increasing.
Therefore, logically, this can't be attributed to my driving profile either.

Addendum:

25% diesel content in engine oil is not uncommon - yes, "Cheers" I can still manage with 15%...

http://www.focus.de/auto/news/test-kurzstrecke-ist-gift-fuer-den-diesel_aid_535936.html#

Test what I have written. You will see, the result will be a new car.

[quote="mullemaus"]Test what I have written. You will see, the result is a new car. [/quote]

Unfortunately, no one can tell me how to get my model running without a DPF (while avoiding error messages). What and where are the connection cables for?
Activating the active regeneration is the least of the problems.
Buying the corresponding complete exhaust system from a previous model without a DPF would also not be a problem.
However, the control unit is not happy about the missing DPF - that's what I was told. It's unfortunately not as simple as it sounds.

use Google and you will find people whose business depends on such measures.....

I'd like to see if it's possible to pressurize the fuel channels in the cylinder head to perform a leak test.

I don't see anything obviously wrong with this; the driving profile looks completely normal.

If the sealing of a PD element is defective or there is a crack in the ZK, then DPF experiments will be useless.

You should check if there is an updated software available for your engine control unit: -> Read out the VAG part number using VCDS and search the web, the software version is usually also listed there.

Best regards, Rainer

Since my car is always serviced at the VW center for inspections and various repairs, and I always see "software update check" at the top of the invoice, I assume that the software cannot be updated.

It's always a question of whether the latest software can be installed for other reasons (different parts).

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 01: Engine Electronics Label file: DRV\03G-906-021-BMM.clb
Software part number: 03G 906 021 PR HW: 03G 906 021 AB
Part: R4 2.0L EDC G000AG 2116
Revision: --H07--- Serial number: VWX7Z0G724A033
Encoding: 0000078
Operating number: WSC 64319 136 90904
VCID: 7EDCA95C294713D11CB-802B

No error codes found.
Readiness: 0 0 0 0 0

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Yes - I visited two independent workshops to inquire about the cost of DPF replacement. I also had a tuner who could adjust the software. But...

Both workshops refused due to the high workload (typical for workshops in our area here in KA!).

I could have persuaded both workshops to take on the job... one wanted a deposit of 2000,-€, while the other said they needed 4-5 days to work on the car.

In short - they simply didn't want to do it.

I've then read through the instructions - oh dear...
Including: - Remove the engine mount - Remove the steering - Remove the drive shaft, etc.
I'm letting the chip tuner extend the regeneration phases by 250km, and I'll observe how much load accumulates. However, I think that with 530km (trigger point), I'll still be well below 50%. Currently, I'm usually below 10% at 380km (as it is now).

Why don't you perform a fuel pressure test on the ZK?

[quote='hkss']Because my car is always serviced and repaired at the VW center, and I always see 'software update check' at the top of the invoice, I assume that it's not possible to update the software.
The question is whether the latest software can be installed for other reasons (different parts). [/quote]

As far as I know, this is the latest version: :wink:

[quote]I then read through the instructions - oh dear....
Including: - Remove the engine carrier - Remove the steering - Remove the drive shaft, etc.....[/quote]

This can be done without removing the aforementioned parts.
The drive shaft only needs to be disconnected. But it can remain inside, like the rest.

[quote="dieselschrauber"]Why don't you perform a fuel pressure loss test on the ZK?[/quote]

I can't - my workshop (VW center) says "it's not possible".
The PD elements were re-sealed in the first step - which didn't help. Then, half a year later, they were completely replaced because I suspected a leaking intake manifold. Unfortunately, this also didn't make any difference - no change whatsoever.
Unfortunately, I don't have any other options in my personal situation.