Diesel in engine oil - this is slowly becoming critical

The proportion of diesel in my engine oil has now reached almost 15% - after 7000km.
I have been changing my oil every 7,000 km for years because I
had discovered that the engine oil had significantly increased in volume. After 5000km, I need to
I'm already starting to drain the oil because it's exceeding the maximum mark (when changing the oil, only 3.7 liters are always filled – so the minimum mark is used).
So, I have often sent the oil to the lab and had the certainty of what was causing the proliferation.

Update on the current test report - I'm now at almost 15% diesel content.

It has already been replaced, the tandem pump, 1. Sealing of PDE elements - then also completely re-seal all 4 PDE elements! - nothing has brought any change - the proportion of diesel in the engine oil is constantly increasing with the total operating hours.

Since my driving style hasn't changed and the proportion of diesel is increasing, I also rule out the possibility that it's due to how the car is being driven. Otherwise, the problem would remain the same.

Do anyone else have any suggestions?

Quote:

Do any of you have any other ideas?

For example, another hairline crack or lunker in the ZK between the fuel channel and the oil drain

However, it is striking that the measurement, which was carried out when the vehicle was in use during the warmer season, showed only 5% diesel content. Therefore, one could hypothesize that active regeneration lasts longer during the winter months and should be considered as a contributing factor.

The amount of ash also increases with every kilometer driven, so that the cycles between rain events become shorter...
Is the engine software up to date?

Unfortunately, it's all speculation.

Regarding regeneration cycles, I can state with 100% certainty that it always regenerates after 380km. That's been the case from day one.

Then I always reset the daily mileage counter to zero, so I know when it will be next time. This way, I can almost always avoid having to stop the vehicle when the regeneration is starting. Or, try planning a shopping/city tour differently than originally planned.
If I miss it or don't notice it, I can quickly check with VCDS to see when it's time again - but as I said, I've got it down - and I'll never miss it - every 380km - always!
The load then lies somewhere between 3% (!!) or even 12% (after 380km!) - so it is still many times more than what would be needed for a 50% trigger for regeneration. That's why I've never experienced this type of regeneration trigger before - I'm quite certain about that.

Do anyone else have any other ideas?

Test-uninstall the DPF and disable the post-injection / regeneration.

Then continue with your normal cycle.
You'll see, no oil dilution, lower consumption, and no more stress.

After the test, re-enter and check against.

Quote:

To test, remove the DPF and disable the post-injection / regeneration. Then continue with your normal cycle. You'll see, no oil dilution, lower consumption, and no more stress. icon_wink.gif After the test, re-enter and check against. icon_cool.gif

"Older PDs are still very easy to modify; this should be achievable for any chiptuner."

Do you perhaps drive very short distances? I cannot confirm that I have had problems with increased oil consumption in my 2.0 PD-TDI. Coolant temperature (i.e., the thermostat) is okay?

Best regards, Rainer

dieselschrauber wrote:

Do you perhaps drive very short distances? I cannot confirm that I have had problems with increased oil consumption in my 2.0 PD-TDI. Coolant temperature (i.e., the thermostat) is okay? Best regards, Rainer

Yep, the thermostat provides plausible values - I also had the thermostat replaced about 2 years ago, and after that, the heating process became a little faster.

So, I've been using the same driving profile for 8 years, and I've always made sure that my vehicles (including this one) are not primarily used in urban traffic.
We live here, where I live, and there is a fantastic infrastructure. I can handle almost everything by bike, including grocery shopping, the post office, the bank, the town hall, etc.
I drive to Rastatt (35km) and back (so that the engine is still warm) about 6-8 times a week, mainly in the afternoon/evening.
This commuting accounts for 80-90% of my total mileage.
If I need to buy heavy items that are not suitable for a bicycle, then I'll usually do that at the end of a bike ride – either coming from Rastatt or buying there directly in Rastatt.
Even though the supermarket is only 1 km away from my house, I wouldn't go there. This can easily be organized with a little "brainpower".
If a regeneration has started, I will always complete it, even if it means taking a slight detour. I would never stop the vehicle during a regeneration phase.
In winter - below 4 degrees, I generally run the space heater for 30-40 minutes before leaving. I can confidently state that my engine has never started in sub-zero temperatures - not even once.

I'm well aware that 35km isn't exactly a long distance.
Furthermore, there is also the factor of "aggravating," which I usually consider to be 35km as
"I am a Schleicher." But I don't really see myself as an "extreme short-distance driver."

And also - as I said - my driving profile hasn't changed! The increasing amount of diesel fuel in engine oil is continuously increasing.
Therefore, one cannot simply shift the focus to the driving profile - logically speaking.

Addendum:

25% diesel content in engine oil is not uncommon - "Cheers" I can still manage with 15%

http://www.focus.de/auto/news/test-kurzstrecke-ist-gift-fuer-den-diesel_aid_535936.html

Test the following: {TEXT} You will see, the result will be a new car.

mullemaus wrote:

Test what I have written. You will see, the result will be a new car.

Unfortunately, no one can tell me how to get my model running without a DPF (error messages). What and where with the connection cables?
Turning off active regeneration is, in fact, the least of the problems.
Buying a complete exhaust system from a previous model without a DPF would also not be a problem.
But the control unit is not happy about the missing DPF - that's what I was told. Unfortunately, it's not as simple as it sounds.

use Google and you will find people whose business is based on such measures.....

I'd like to see if it's possible to pressurize the fuel channels in the cylinder head in order to perform a leak test.

As far as I can see, everything looks perfectly normal. The driving profile appears completely problem-free.

If the sealing of a PD element is defective or there is a crack in the ZK, then DPF experiments will be useless.
You should check if there is an updated software available for your engine control unit: -> Use VCDS to read the VAG part number and search for it online, the software version is usually also listed there.

Best regards, Rainer

Since my car is always serviced and repaired at the VW center, and I always see "check for software updates" at the top of the invoice, I assume that updating the software is not possible.
It's always a question of whether the latest software can be installed instead, due to other reasons (other components).
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 01: Engine Electronics Label file: DRV\03G-906-021-BMM.clb
Part Number SW: 03G 906 021 PR HW: 03G 906 021 AB
Part: R4 2.0L EDC G000AG 2116
Revision: --H07--- Serial Number: VWX7Z0G724A033
Encoding: 0000078
Operating number: WSC 64319 136 90904
VCID: 7EDCA95C294713D11CB-802B

No error codes found.
Readiness: 0 0 0 0 0

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Yes - I visited two independent workshops to inquire about the cost of DPF (Diesel Particulate Filter) replacement. I also found a "chiptuner" who could adjust the software. But....
Both workshops refused due to the high workload (typical for craftsmen in our area here in KA!).
I could have convinced both workshops to take on the job... one wanted a €2000 deposit, while the other said they needed the car for 4-5 days.
In a nutshell - she simply didn't want to do it.

I've then read through the instructions - oh dear...
For example: - Expand the aggregate carrier - Install the steering system - Install the drive shaft, etc.

I'm now letting the chip tuner extend the regeneration phases by 250km, and I'll observe how much load accumulates. However, I think that with 530km (trigger point), I'll still be well below 50%. So far, at 380km (as it is now), I'm usually below 10%.

Why don't you perform a fuel pressure loss test on the ZK?

Since my car is always serviced and repaired at the VW center, and I always see 'check for software updates' at the top of the invoice, I assume that updating the software is not possible.
It's always a question of whether the latest software can be installed instead, for other reasons (other components).

As far as I know, this is the most up-to-date .

I then took a look at the work instructions - oh dear...
For example: - Expand the aggregate carrier - Install the steering system - Install the drive shaft, etc.

It can be done without the removal of the mentioned parts.
The drive shaft must be disconnected at most. But it can also stay, just like the rest, inside.

dieselschrauber wrote:

Why don't you perform a fuel pressure test on the ZK?

I can't - my workshop (VW center) says "it's not possible".
The PD elements were re-sealed in the first step, but that didn't work. Then, half a year later, they were completely replaced because I suspected a leaking pre-chamber. Unfortunately, there is also no change - not even the slightest.
Unfortunately, I don't have more options in my current situation.