VW Passat 3B AFN: Major Service & Repair

Hello.

My old car is getting (probably its last) major service.
Year of manufacture: 1998, mileage: 312,000 km!

Planned activities include:


- Timing belts and serpentine belts, including idler pulleys, valve cover gasket.
- Water pump
- Flexible bellows for drive shafts.
- Oil change.
- all filters
- Lima freewheel and bearing (voltage regulator with brushes was replaced at 230,000 km).

'Due to recurring issues with shifting gears recently (especially during city driving with frequent stops), and because the clutch is starting to slip slightly in 5th gear, I also ordered a new clutch kit (including the clutch disc, pressure plate, and release bearing - Sachs).'


Transmission fluid, power steering fluid, and coolant will also be replaced.


I've noticed a humming sound occasionally when steering – not at full lock. At the same time, there's a very slight vibration felt in the steering wheel. The power steering fluid is slightly below the maximum mark.
What could be developing there, or do you see a need for action? This problem has existed for about 20,000 kilometers and always occurs with the same intensity.

Are there any additional tips from your side regarding the upcoming project? I want to avoid a situation where I'm standing in front of a disassembled car and then some part is missing...

Sure, here's the translation:

'Thank you in advance!'

Best regards,
Manuel

If you are replacing the bellows according to the repair manual, you will need to remove the clamping screw for the upper control arms. This can sometimes cause problems.

First, loosen or open the fill plug for the transmission oil, and then drain it. If something goes wrong with the fill plug after you've drained the oil, you'll be in a difficult situation.

Bye.
peace

Hello everyone!

Changing the transmission and engine oil, as well as all filters, is always a good idea - whether it's due to or especially with higher mileage.

Here's an important tip regarding the gearbox: make sure to loosen the fill plug first!

Otherwise, I wouldn't change anything that isn't actually broken.
A valve cover gasket makes sense, and timing belts and serpentine belts including their pulleys are definitely things to replace. However, I would leave the alternator clutch, water pump pulley, etc., alone unless they are actually defective or showing signs of wear.
These attachments are relatively easy to access later on if you encounter a problem, and they can certainly last for another 100,000 kilometers or more .
Instead, take a look at the tensioner mechanism for the ribbed belt, which is more prone to problems and can become stiff or difficult to move with age and mileage.

I wouldn't worry too much about the power steering as long as the level of hydraulic fluid remains constant.
As with the previous step, it's recommended to either thoroughly flush or replace the compensation tank. This is because it contains a filter that, if clogged, could potentially cause oil starvation in the pump at high flow rates.
By the way, my A4's power steering (AFN engine) also exhibits a slight pulsating behavior when turning, which I suspect is due to an aged expansion hose in my case. However, there are no noises coming from the hydraulic pump in this instance!
Finally, a crucial reminder: Pay extremely close attention to cleanliness when working on the servo! Under no circumstances should hydraulic oil be reused, and also make sure you are using the correct product (G02000)!

Regarding the clutch, I can't really offer much advice at this point. They are generally quite inconspicuous, even with high mileage, if the vehicle is properly maintained.
Here, I would like to examine the hydraulic system in advance, and possibly also bleed the brakes along with changing the brake fluid.
Otherwise, a seal on the transmission input shaft or even on the engine side could be the cause, provided that the pedal travel and engagement point are normal. However, you would only notice this if the clutch is disengaged.

Best regards from Munich!

Hello,

If you've already removed the fuel pump mounting bracket, it would be a good opportunity to replace the shaft seal on the injection pump. These seals tend to leak air over time, which can lead to starting problems after periods of inactivity. Its Bosch part number is: 2 460 283 001.

"I install it by using two chipboard screws (e.g., 4 x 50). I insert them slightly into the edge on the outside and then screw them in further."
I then use a combination pliers to pull out the sealing ring (by resting it on the shaft and levering). Alternatively, you can screw in a bolt until it pushes the ring out. Afterwards, any aluminum shavings behind it can be flushed out with brake cleaner.

pax wrote:

If you are replacing the bellows according to the repair manual, you need to remove the clamping screw for the upper control arms. This can sometimes cause problems. Bye. peace

That's a nice understatement. I would say "typically" instead of "occasionally." It could take you a whole day!

haithamina

Would a leaking crankshaft seal on the ESP engine also be detectable by the smell of escaping diesel fuel?
I'm just asking because I wouldn't want to replace too many parts unnecessarily, especially based on suspicion alone.
"The ZR and running gear, and especially the hydraulic components, particularly if they are still original, are nearing the end of their lifespan at around 200,000 km. This can lead to significant problems."
hg
Herbert.

Hello everyone!

Herbert wrote:

Would a leaking crankshaft seal on the ESP also be detectable by the escaping diesel fuel? I'm just asking because I wouldn't want to replace too many parts unnecessarily, especially based on mileage alone. ...

No. Typically, in this failure scenario, the VP37 fuel injection pump tends to suck in air, but it usually withstands the pressure from the diesel fuel inside.
Therefore, I would leave the Simmer ring in place as long as there are no problems here. It is not uncommon to introduce an error, for example, by having the pump shaft wear into the sealing area .

Best regards from Munich!

haithamina wrote:

pax wrote: ... Remove the clamping screw for the upper control arms. ... ... I would use "instead of" occasionally, rather than typically. ...

Once it's out, you don't use it dry anymore. And with the regular replacement of bellows or tie rods, it shouldn't really get stuck together.

Bye.
peace

When you replace the clutch, you should also replace the pilot bearing (approximately 7 EUR) at the same time!!!!!! Mine failed during a vacation trip, which meant that the transmission input shaft had to be replaced.

Hello everyone!

Thank you for your tips!

I will get back to you after the repair is complete to let you know how it went.

Best regards,
Manuel

Hello fellow DIY enthusiasts!

It took a little longer than expected, but it's finally here. On Friday, my Passat was brought to the 'service bay,' and then the real work began.

Here's what happened so far, and also what was planned:

- Replaced ZR (zero-pressure) valve.
- New website.
- New shaft seal EP.
- Idler pulleys for flat belts (for both LIMA and WAPU applications, as well as for air conditioning). New.
- New crankshaft oil seal (transmission side).
- Starter completely disassembled, cleaned, and lubricated.
- LIMA (alternator) completely disassembled, cleaned, new bearings, new slip rings and regulator, new freewheel.
- Power steering fluid replaced (system flushed).
- Change transmission fluid.

The following questions have arisen:

- The new release bearing has a plastic disc on the front side (the side that presses against the pressure plate springs). Should this be removed, or does it need to stay in place? The old release bearing had a metal ring in this location. The new release bearing is also slightly longer. Old bearing: LUK; the new one is a Sachs.
Please refer to the attached image for more details.

- The clutch master cylinder was heavily contaminated. - Camshaft play and free travel seem to be within acceptable limits. I obtained this data from a video by LUK.
My question: Is there any maintenance that can be performed on the ZMS (e.g., lubrication)?

- The pilot bearing was completely dry and difficult to turn. I managed to make it spin freely by using brake cleaner and special grease (Sachs). There's no noticeable play - I would leave it in place. What do you think?

'As far as I know, the bolts for the DMF (damper plate, attached to the crankshaft) are stretch bolts – I assume they need to be replaced?'

What I didn't expect:

- The old clutch disc (which had never been replaced) still had a good amount of material left compared to the new one - I estimate it could have lasted another 150,000 miles. I suspect that the springs on the pressure plate are fatigued, which caused the lack of engagement. There were no signs of wear or break-in on either the old pressure plate or the dual-mass flywheel (DMF).

- The counterpart to the clutch release cylinder (relative to the fork) is made of plastic and shows significant wear. Consequently, the fork moves slightly further towards the transmission, and due to the uneven wear, it tilts (causing uneven loading on the release bearing).

- The bearings and gears (planetary gear) of the starter were completely dry. However, there was hardly any visible wear - and the brushes are still in good condition. I believe that the lifespan of the starter can be significantly extended by cleaning and lubricating it (this also applies to the alternator).

Added:

- Damaged halfshaft boot on the wheel side, driver's side.
- Damaged or detached tie rod end.
- Almost completely rusted connecting piece for the exhaust system.

Okay, that's all for now.

Best regards, Manuel.