1.6 TD engine not running properly, adjusting the fuel injection pump

Hello everyone,

I allowed myself to be persuaded to buy an old Caddy from 1990, which I'm planning to modify by replacing the naturally aspirated diesel engine with a 1.6 TD SB engine from a Golf 2 (1991). The car has been standing for 10 years, and the conversion work is neither registered nor completed...

It's not running properly; I suspect the fuel injection pump.

Everything that had been done up to that point involved using an auxiliary tank located in the engine compartment, in order to bypass the main fuel tank and its lines.

The initial situation was that the car would only run if the diesel tank was positioned higher than the fuel pump in the engine compartment. However, when it did run, it would always idle at 2000 RPM and wouldn't respond to acceleration. Self-priming was only possible to a very limited extent.
For me, it was clear: the pump must have a problem internally.

That's why I ordered a gasket set and started taking it apart. So far, it's working well. In the process, I also removed and adjusted the fuel screw at the back and the screws at the front (where the centrifugal governor is located), because the previous owner had messed with them, and at least the fuel screw was completely tightened.

During the initial disassembly, I only opened the top cover and made the regulator functional again. Unfortunately, the inside of the pump was stuck together.

It ran well enough, it would accelerate, but only up to 3000 RPM, and it started very poorly. It was still producing that gray smoke. As soon as I started driving, it stopped working shortly after, because the wing cell pump at the bottom was also clogged.

That's why I took the pump apart again, completely disassembled it, cleaned it, and reassembled it.

Okay, that's enough about the background.

Currently, I have the following values:

I've checked the valve timing multiple times, and it seems to be correct.

For the initial start-up with the new old pump, the pressure gauge indicated a starting pressure of 91, because I accidentally positioned it exactly there during installation. I believe the requirement is around 90, if I remember correctly.

The pump has good suction. If it remains stationary for a longer period, no air bubbles will form in the pipes.

When the engine is running, I have a continuous return flow.

It only starts when the choke is pulled.

I always have to fiddle with it, and you can smell unburnt diesel even before it starts.

If I adjust the start-up boost while the engine is running, it doesn't change the engine's performance much.

Currently, it's not accelerating properly and actually runs worse when you try to accelerate, even though the engine speed doesn't increase.

He maintains an idle speed of approximately 850 RPM. However, it experiences fluctuations in engine speed when using the choke.

Although I trained as an automotive mechatronics technician, I have to admit that I only started working with common rail systems, and my experience with distributor injection pumps is limited to basic knowledge.

Thank you in advance to everyone who has read this far, and I hope you can help me.

Thank you and best regards.
Leo.

Hi.

Quote:

For the initial start-up with the new old pump, the starting pressure, according to the measuring gauge, was set to 91, because I accidentally positioned it exactly there during installation. The requirement is around 90, if I remember correctly.

91 what, bananas?

What you call "choke" is the cold start accelerator; it advances the fuel injection timing.

Quote:

It only starts with the choke pulled.

Therefore, your perspective will be incorrect.

"First, I would make sure that the fuel supply is sufficient and that there is enough pump pressure (check port?)."

Sure, here's the translation:

"LG" translates to "Best regards" or "Sincerely" in English.

Hi, thanks for the quick reply.

With your 91 bananas, I mean a spark timing advance of 0.91mm before Top Dead Center (TDC).

I understand that it's the cold start accelerator. I just always call it the "choke," regardless of whether it's a diesel or a gasoline engine. It became a common practice in the workshop back then.

Where can I measure the internal pressure? I currently only see a plug located relatively high up, approximately at the same level as and opposite the return screw, in the header. It should be an M10 or something like that.

You can clearly see how the pump from my auxiliary tank in the engine compartment is drawing fuel. Therefore, there should be enough diesel in the tank. Whether the print fits is, of course, another question.

What pressure setting should I use there? I would estimate the pressure to be around 2-3 bar at idle and approximately 5-6 bar at higher RPM.

Hi,
You mean 0.91 mm of stroke at TDC (Top Dead Center). This was read from the dial indicator at the TDC position. It's actually a bit early, but it should help with starting.
Probably, the problem lies with the valve inside the pump.
But first: are the injectors spraying properly, and what is the injection pressure on the test bench? What does the compression look like?
The internal workings of the ESP and its repair are described elsewhere - see the T3/T4 wiki or the links provided in /viewtopic.php?t=30721.
hg
Herbert.

...and is the injection molding nozzle common, and does it tend to droop or sag? Unfortunately, you can only tell by looking at the disassembled pump.

Hi!

That will be difficult now.
to complete a renovation project that has already been started.

Because you don't know what has already been done.

Yes, I still remember that thing about the 0.91 bananas.

Then, I believe the turbo engines had different fuel injectors.
and also oil spray nozzles for cooling the pistons.
And an oil-water heat exchanger.

Turbo engines typically have the membrane dome located on top of the ESP (Electrostatic Precipitator).
which increases the amount of fuel injected, depending on the boost pressure.

I have to say, I'm familiar with the term "Motor SB," but I don't know the details off the top of my head.
I once had a Golf with a 70 horsepower Junior engine. And in my T3, I think it was a JX engine, which was also a 1.6 TD.

Actually, you're asking this question 25 years too late.
At that time, I probably could have helped you better.
At that time, I had been very involved with those types of engines.

Okay, I'll just read along.
Perhaps I can write something more meaningful about it someday.

In case of emergency,
I still have the original microfilm and a reader for it, at least.

Hi!

Okay, I still have the book "Jetzt helfe ich mir selbst" (which translates to "Now I help myself") for the 2-series Golf diesel.

The book is so old that it's starting to fall apart.

So, the SB is the 1.6-liter diesel engine with a turbocharger, direct injection, and an intercooler.
I think it has about 80 horsepower. Extremely rare engine, I've never seen one like it before.

I would start by checking which engine code is stamped on the engine block.

At that time, you could pretty much assemble the engines however you wanted.
It all worked out.

But if you have a 54 horsepower engine with a turbocharger, and you've really put it through its paces,
It didn't last very long.

The original turbo engines also had reinforced crankshafts.

So, I took a closer look.

Yes, I have a complete set. The "sb" is embedded in the block. Yes, with a water-cooled turbocharger and intercooler.

I've also looked at the "How it's done" section. There's a lot of information in there. It's available for online reading.

"Last time, I completely disassembled and cleaned the pump while it was open." Everything is smooth and (hopefully, but I think it is) assembled correctly.

The shaft where the centrifugal regulator is located (I believe this is the injection control valve) is in good condition and moves freely. However, I accidentally discovered that the shaft that guides it seems to need a specific clearance of 7.65mm from the pump housing. (I hope this value is the same for everyone, as I haven't found any further information about it.) I had it set at approximately 8.15mm.

Then I reinstalled the pump and adjusted the timing and the start of injection. It's currently at 0.90.

The engine doesn't start without jump-starting. As soon as I add a squirt of starting fluid, it starts immediately and then runs fine. He still smokes.

He's now accepting gas again and running without the cold start accelerator. However, the throttle response is delayed. I have about 1/3 of the pedal travel before anything happens.

Accordingly, the wave setting I selected seems to have a significant impact on the pump.


Next, I removed the fuel injectors. To do that, I had to make a special 27mm socket. But thanks to a piece of exhaust pipe and my welding machine, it worked perfectly.

The gasket on the bottom of the 3rd cylinder was installed upside down. The nozzle is quite clogged with carbon deposits.

I temporarily connected the injectors directly to the fuel lines. Three of them sprayed properly. One of them seemed to be dripping. On the fourth, nothing came out. I'm getting the pressure testing equipment on Monday. Okay, I'll check what values they have and whether they come in drops or some other form.

"In that context, it would naturally be interesting to measure the compression. Unfortunately, I don't have a measuring device for that. However, based on the sound alone, at least all the cylinders seem to be similar." I don't have any of those that pass through acoustically empty spaces.

Theoretically, there should be a few photos here. Two of the seals, one of which was installed incorrectly, one of the shaft I'm referring to, and one of the regulator.

Thank you and best regards.
Leo.

Hi!

Well, that certainly looks very positive at first glance.
The most important thing first is to make sure you have the correct engine block.

Wiping the nozzles is also correct and important.

The gaskets, or heat shields as they are sometimes called, should also be installed the correct way around.
You already realized that.

Unfortunately, I can't help you with the fuel injection pump.
At the time when I was working in the workshop.
I've replaced seals before, but that's all.
That was around 1992/1993.
There were hardly any documents available, and the internet didn't exist yet.

If one of them ever malfunctioned, we took it to the Bosch service center, but even there, it wasn't always fixed perfectly.
I never really looked into it later either, because they were actually very reliable and rarely broke.

Well, I'm really curious to see what happens next.

It's a nice project, though, this Caddy.

How are you ever going to let him/her in?

It's unlikely to get an H-registration plate if the inspector sees the turbocharger.
Perhaps as a truck?

Hi,
I can't open the photos. You should upload them directly, not from some strange source.
I wouldn't use Startpilot with a diesel engine; it ignites at the wrong time, not at top dead center, and causes a shock to the piston, bearings, and crankshaft.
If one of the nozzles isn't spraying, try swapping it with another one before disassembling and cleaning.
The engine is an EA086. Is the fuel injection pump made by Bosch? Please upload a photo of the nameplate.
hg
Herbert.

Hi,

The images have been uploaded directly here. They should work. At least, they work for me.

It's a Bosch pump. I haven't found the type plate yet because the outside of the housing is quite corroded. I didn't really look that closely, either.

"I know that using starting fluid isn't ideal. But he really only needs a small amount. So, just a quick spray into the intake manifold and then start it. That's all it takes. I'll check the injectors on Monday. The one that wasn't spraying might not have been properly primed yet. Unfortunately, I didn't have time to look into it further. But it's running on all four cylinders." When I open the fuel injection lines while the engine is running, the engine runs poorly and diesel leaks out.

The glow plugs are working fine. The only problem is that the relay is defective. Currently, I'm bypassing the relay and controlling the heating time myself.

Sure, here's the translation:

"Best regards, Leo"

You may not have properly adjusted the throttle lever and shaft.
assembled

Mexchange wrote:

Hello, The images have been uploaded directly here. They should work. At least, they work for me. Okay, I'm ready. Please provide the text you want me to translate from German to English. Best regards, Leo

Not for me.
hg
Herbert.

Herbert wrote:

Mexchange wrote: Hello, The images have been uploaded directly here. They should work. At least, they work for me. Okay, I'm ready. Please provide the text you want me to translate from German to English. Best regards, Leo Not for me. hg Herbert

Quote:

General error. The selected file does not exist. 404 File Not Found

Could it be that a moderator deleted the images due to copyright issues?

Please only upload images for which you have the rights.

I deleted the attachments because they were meaningless without the corresponding files.

Was checked wurde, ob der gas lever richtig auf der Welle sitzt.

Good evening everyone, I've been doing some more research.

I have now tested the injectors. They all open at approximately 155 bar, which, as far as I can tell, corresponds to the standard specification. However, they all start to drip around 155 bar, and some even emit sprays.

As I gradually approach the opening pressure, only a minimal amount of diesel starts to come out of the nozzle around 150 bar, and around 155 bar, a very fine spray appears. The nozzle only atomizes properly when I overcome the pressure point slightly faster.

If I exceed the pressure point too quickly, the result will also become messy again.

I opened one. It doesn't look too bad so far. It's a bit dirty. The shoes have "Henzo DNS0D 297" written on them.

"However, since the spray pattern doesn't change after disassembling and reassembling, I think new injectors would be a good idea. If the injectors are slightly leaking, I think it could be difficult for him to start because he only has the starter motor speed. The starting fluid helps him to get going and provides enough speed to run. He's smoking because he's not injecting the fuel properly." That's my assessment.

Now I'm not sure exactly what I want to do. Should I buy 4 new complete injectors (which are available on eBay for €230 or €290 each), or just the injectors themselves for around €50 each, depending on the supplier? (Prices are for 4 pieces). Related)

However, in the process, one can also find the DNS0D 273.

What is the difference between 273 and 297?

I'm completely out of my depth regarding experience right now. I've never delved this deeply into the topic of injection technology before.

Here's a video about it in the attachment. I think I'm leaning towards using all of those nozzles. For warranty and related matters.

Best regards,
Leo.