Haldex Oil Change: Service & Costs

Hello,

My customer service is ready. The VW manual for the Haldex oil change states that the oil should be drained through the drain hole located at the bottom of the Haldex unit, and then the oil should be injected through the same opening using a cartridge press, followed by the instruction, "tighten quickly."

Now I'm wondering why I should go through all this trouble, only to have half the oil leak out again, when there's a drain plug above the Haldex unit that I can use to check the oil level. Why not just drain it from the bottom, seal it, open the inspection plug at the top, fill it through there, and that's it?

Is that possible, or do you have any other information about it?

Best regards,
Georg.

Without having that in front of me... This is how I would do it! Measure the amount of oil beforehand and put it into a suitable container. That way, there's no doubt about the amount that has already been added, and overfilling or underfilling is avoided.

It's impossible to over- or underfill it, as the 275ml of the cartridge must be used. The standard fill amount is 250ml... which means that VW apparently calculates that 25ml will leak out between the time the screw is removed and the time it is inserted .

I'm curious to see what the color will look like after 30,000 km, especially since I used all-wheel drive quite a bit during the winter .

Okay, one more question on this topic: Has anyone here actually done this before? I mean, really filled it in through the fill hole?

It would have the advantage that I wouldn't have to use the cartridge press from VW, but I could use a gear oil press with a "nozzle" instead.

I once read that some people fill it in through the adjustment screw.
Just give a friendly VW mechanic a call and ask them how they do it, or whether they even do that.
I've received friendly answers to a few questions so far.

Okay,

Here's my feedback: You can only check the upper screw; you can't access it to tighten or adjust it because of the bracket that holds the transmission.

Okay, bottom open, insert the cartridge, push it in. You have plenty of time; it's not so thin that it comes out immediately. Maybe about 10ml spilled before the screw with the sealing ring was back in place. So, we did it the way it was described in the VW manual.

and what did the oil look like?

"It was a bit darker than the new one, but without any foreign particles - it had been used for 29,000 km. However, we didn't check the level afterwards, because we pushed the entire cartridge in as instructed... and if nothing spills out, it must be enough."

Instructions in detail:

- Warm up the vehicle, target Haldex oil temperature: 20...40°C.

- Open the drain plug and drain the Haldex oil (Allen key size 5).

- Prepare the drain plug with a new sealing ring (part number 02D525655, €0.32), attach it to the Allen key socket, and place it within easy reach.

- Insert the cartridge containing Haldex high-performance oil (G 052175A1, €15) into a standard cartridge press for silicone/acrylic or similar materials. Screw the syringe onto the front of the press, insert it into the Haldex drain hole, and pump all the oil into the Haldex unit.

- Immediately after removing the bolt, insert the prepared drain plug to prevent any oil from leaking out.

- Tighten the screw to 15 Nm.



Change intervals:


- Oil change every 30,000 km, along with the regular service.

- Replace the fuel filter every 60,000 km for gasoline engines, and every 100,000 km for TDI engines (part number: 02D525558A, €30).

Sure, here is the translation of the text from German to English:

"Addendum:"

Filter replacement: Absolutely not something to be overlooked. I replaced mine during my last maintenance and, out of curiosity, I cut it open – and there was quite a bit of sludge and debris inside. So, it's definitely something you should do.

It definitely only works with the special wrench; otherwise, you won't be able to unscrew the filter.

The filter costs somewhere around 25 euros.

Hello,

For the Golf, you need a special key. For the Passat 3C, model year 2007, there's enough space there to use a nut removal tool.

SG.

Has anyone found a tool to remove and tighten the oil filter housing on the Haldex system for vehicles like the Golf 4, A3 S3 8L, TT 8N, etc.? Perhaps something like a multi-sided wrench?

Well,

For the Golf IV, you can only do this with a special key.


Greetings.

Hello.

I wanted to change the Haldex oil in my Golf 5, 4Motion TDI, manufactured in 2007, today.

Unfortunately, I received the wrong oil filter.

"02D 598 574 does not fit. Perhaps someone knows the correct part number."

Thank you, and best regards from Vienna.

Thomas.

Hello.

I replaced the filter today, but it was incorrectly packaged.

The oil was actually very clean after 50,000 km.

For the Golf 5 4Motion, you don't need any special tools, and you'll need 0.75 liters of oil.

Ratchet wrench, 24mm nut size. Allen wrench, 5mm. Allen wrench, 8mm. Own filling screw, inspection screw.

It's only available in liter-sized cans and costs 25.- per liter.

The filter costs €42 in Austria.

Best regards from Vienna.

"The Haldex coupling oil was also generally very clean in my case, but cutting open the filter revealed some brass shavings, which was quite interesting to see."

For the sake of completeness, I've compiled a list of part numbers for service parts for the Golf IV/V/VI platforms (without any guarantee of accuracy). Prices are not listed, as they change constantly, but on average, you can expect to pay around €50-60 for oil and filters.


Golf IV platform (Golf IV, Seat Leon 1M, Skoda Octavia 1, Audi A3 8L, Bora; Sharan 01-10 and similar models):


G 052175A1 - Haldex Oil, 275ml
02D525558A - Oil filter with sealing ring.



Golf V platform (Passat 06-08, Transporter 03-10, Golf V, Octavia II, Seat Altea, Audi A3 8P, Audi TT and similar models):

G 055175A2 - Haldex Oil 1000ml (650ml filling volume in clutch)
02D598574 - Oil filter with sealing ring.

Here's my Haldex V, which supposedly doesn't have a way to change the oil, and now definitively doesn't have a filter element that can be replaced.
That's what I've researched so far, but I'll continue to look into it.
because I want to change the oil after 20,000 km, and I can't believe that it's no longer possible.
I took some photos of my new Skoda Yeti here.
Easily recognizable are the three Allen screws with copper sealing rings on the housing.
Well, that one should be suitable for an oil change.
But, as I said, before I proceed with that, I will definitely contact Erwin (siehe Fehlerdatenbank) and Elsa again.