Engine tuning box installation

Hello everyone!

Since I'm not very good with electronics, I need your help to set up my Speed-Buster box.

The instructions for the device state that, starting from the factory settings of the potentiometers, a certain number of turns will bring them to an 'initial position,' and from there, you should gradually adjust the potentiometers further until you notice a noticeable increase in performance.

Okay, here's the translation:

'Now, my question: Since this is a used unit, I can't assume that the potentiometers were in their original factory settings. How can I determine the initial position of the potentiometers? Also, I couldn't feel any end stops, even after turning them for a long time.' Since I don't want to run the device at its maximum capacity, I'm a little unsure about the achieved state!

Best regards,
Axel

Hello Axel,

It's likely that your device uses potentiometer knobs with a spindle. These knobs (usually) cannot be damaged by over-rotation. They indicate the end position with a faint "click" sound.

Best regards, Rainer.

Hello Rainer!

I fiddled with all three knobs, listening closely to the casing like a safecracker. However, there was no clicking sound.

The entire thing is functional, because you can cause the motor to stutter by adjusting the potentiometers while it's idling, and you can fix it by turning them in the other direction.

Is there another way?

Best regards,
Axel

Then just turn it 30 times in one direction, and it should definitely be at one of the end positions.

Best regards, Rainer.

Hello Rainer!

What is the function of each potentiometer, and what changes occur when adjusting each one? The labels are I, S, and T. It seems that the potentiometer labeled 'S' somehow influences the behavior of the motor at idle. I'm not aware of which parameters the other two settings affect.

I believe that, for a correct configuration of the device, it would be important to know what one is adjusting.

Best regards,
Axel

Here's what I found from old forum posts:

Quote:

Hello Rainer, Yes... I also have the installation instructions for Speedbuster (I, S, T screws). It's similar to your alpine guide, but I have the feeling that two letters, "I" and "T", have been swapped. I still have 6 months of warranty, so I'm going to wait until the seals on the screws break. The jerking might be caused by a faulty mass airflow sensor connection. I'll check that out now. Best regards, Georg. ...which will probably save you a lot of frustration. If your device has a 9-pin Sub-D connector and 3 rotary potentiometers labeled I-S-T, you can very likely use the setup instructions for the Alpinbox. Quote: Hello, of course, a faulty seal is bad, and mine didn't have one. Stuttering can also have other causes, but if you temporarily remove the box from the fuel injection line and the stuttering disappears, then it definitely comes from the box. In that case, the "S" screw should be turned a quarter to half a turn back (counterclockwise). I can confidently say that using setting "I" is perfectly fine. With setting "T", you can potentially get a bit more power to improve the Ulf's transit time . Please note that adjusting setting "T" might also require a correction to setting "S" to avoid any stuttering. Since you still have a warranty, you should definitely contact the seller and have them readjust the settings. If (for some reason) the seller is unable to do it properly (my seller could only say things like "wow," "awesome," and "totally cool," and even he didn't adjust it correctly, as it was still jittery), then you should do it yourself with his help. Best regards, Rainer.

Sure, here's the translation:

"Here are a few more notes on the above:"

- On the Alpin Box, setting "I" adjusts the overall performance boost, which can be completely adjusted by turning it fully clockwise.
- S represents the power increase without increased mass airflow, meaning it applies to partial load and idle conditions. Keep turning the key until the engine starts to run roughly at idle, then turn it back 2-3 clicks.
- "T" refers to the power boost setting for full load (increased mass airflow). Adjust it so that the engine, when fully accelerated in 3rd or 4th gear and revved up to 4500 RPM, does not enter limp mode. Then, for safety, turn it back half a revolution, because an emergency stop during an overtaking maneuver is not fun.

For the engine to start, it must be at its operating temperature, and the air conditioning and any high-power electrical devices must be turned off.

Best regards, Rainer.

'T' is used for increasing power output at full load (increased mass airflow). Adjust it so that the engine, when fully accelerated in 3rd or 4th gear and up to 4500 RPM, does not go into limp mode. Then, for safety, turn it back half a revolution, emergency mode during an overtaking maneuver is not fun. .......

Hello Rainer!

I also bought and installed a Speedbuster2 box today.

(After trying the instructions that were meant for a different purpose, I ultimately found that, through multi-hour test drives, only your setting - mentioned above - yielded the best results...)
...I could have saved myself the trouble - anyone who can use the search function has a clear advantage... )

But my actual question is this:

Why does it go into emergency mode at all when there's too much quantity? (Of course, it happened to me about 200 times today as well... )
Is it because the turbocharger's boost pressure can no longer be reduced (or not quickly enough)?

Or could it be due to something else?

Perhaps you or someone else could shed some light on this for me...

Regards,

Michl.

But my actual question is this:

Why does it go into emergency mode at all when there's too much quantity? (Of course, it happened to me about 200 times today as well... )
Is it because the turbocharger's boost pressure can no longer be reduced (or not quickly enough)?

Or could it be due to something else?



In power boxes, the emergency mode doesn't come from the charging pressure; it's not affected by it.

The sensor distorts the feedback signal regarding the amount of diesel injected.

(note: the following values are for explanatory purposes only!)
Normally, the control unit supplies, for example, 3V to the actuator and expects to receive 3V back. However, the box reduces this 3V to 1.5V, causing the control unit to continue increasing the voltage until it receives the desired 3V. Consequently, the pump effectively receives 4.5V. The EDC system is VERY fault-tolerant in this area, both to accommodate tolerances and to be able to handle 'mechanical problems.'
If the EDC (Electronic Drive Controller) can no longer achieve the desired value because it's outputting the maximum voltage to the turnout, and the reported actual value still isn't moving towards the target value (the turnout is too far open), then this is called a 'regulation deviation' and leads to the detection of an unfixable error, triggering emergency mode. Since the EDC doesn't know what's wrong, it simply drastically limits the output to the control mechanism. It could also be that the mechanical components are jammed.

This scenario can also apply to boost pressure; for example, if the VTG (variable turbine geometry) is jammed, the process unfolds similarly.

CU Gremlin.

...in the case of power boxes, the emergency mode is not triggered by the charging pressure. The charging pressure has no influence on it anyway.



Hello Gremlin!

Of course, I understand the rules involved.

On the other hand, increasing the fuel injection volume will certainly increase the exhaust gas flow, and consequently, the turbocharger's exhaust side will be more forcefully pressurized.

Point 1:
In the past (in a specific engine configuration), I measured my boost pressure build-up, and I noticed quite significant overboosts, reaching 1.2-1.3 bar, especially when suddenly accelerating in lower gears.

Point 2:
'In my case, the emergency mode is sometimes triggered, even though the soot emissions are very minimal or non-existent...'

Point 3:
If I adjust the engine so that it pulls well at 3000-4000 RPM in the highest gear and doesn't go into limp mode, it regularly goes into limp mode in the lower gears when I give it full throttle.
If I turn the gearbox back like that, so that it doesn't go into limp mode in the lower gears, it performs significantly worse in the higher gears.

I might need to adjust the length of the rod in the VTG adjustment slightly to reduce the overpressure surge.

I thought maybe someone of you might know this problem... but I'm afraid I probably have to install another pressure gauge again, just to be sure... I was actually hoping to avoid that...

Greetings to everyone!

Michl.

The best approach would be:
Place the box in front of the car http://home.t-online.de/home/bullitt667/smilies/data/uglyhammer.gif and drive over it.

@Tagessuppe:

Oh, oh, why so negative??

I specifically bought this (3-pot!) box because I'm considering getting larger nozzles and using a 'weaker' box setting to compensate for the remaining amount needed to reach the soot limit. Right now, I'm just testing the box with the original nozzles.
It's likely that even with the larger nozzles, things won't easily go into emergency mode anymore...

Because, when I read the posts on the topic ''Custom chip tuning AND larger injectors'', it makes me sick!

Besides, I have the box set to be switchable, so it's only for 'emergencies' .

@Gremlin:

You were right. I've since measured the boost pressure: The overboost is only slightly higher than without the box... so it's just a matter of quantity.

Best regards and thank you.
Michl.

Hi MichlM.

I think that combining the P-box with larger nozzles will turn your device into a makeshift slingshot. The amount of air remains the same.
It would probably be better to optimize the chip, for example, by increasing the boost pressure and reducing the fuel injection volume (compared to a tuning variant).

Hi MichlM.

I think that combining the P-box with larger nozzles will turn your device into a makeshift slingshot. The amount of air remains the same.
It's probably better to optimize a chip, for example, by increasing boost pressure and reducing fuel injection (compared to a tuning variant).

Hi Tagessuppe!

As I already mentioned, I purchased a 3-POTI box.

This is suitable for approximately 25 different TDI engines (Audi, VW, Seat, with 90 and 110 horsepower), so it works with those.
Can be adjusted to a very high degree to be INDIVIDUAL!

After the large injectors inject approximately 10% more fuel, but the TDIs are typically run with a 20-30% excess of air in their standard configuration, I believe there is still enough remaining air to inject a little more (meaning, for a longer duration) without it turning into a 'smoke monster.'

Besides, there's also the additional possibility of providing extra air by slightly increasing the boost pressure by 0.1-0.15 bar...


And speaking of chip tuning:

YES, I know that a proper (!!!) chip tuning is better and produces less noise than a silly box, but...

I DON'T WANT to spend, possibly, over €1000 on a specially customized chip, and have to go to various tuning shops multiple times, only to be frustrated later because it doesn't work 100%!!!!

Please refer to this post: !!!

Regards,
Michl.

PS: The stupid box cost me less than €300, and if something goes wrong, I'll just turn the knob back, and then it will be fine...
And if I no longer like it, I can sell it to anyone who owns one of the 25 cars at any time.

Quote:

Since the large injectors inject about 10% more, but the TDIs are factory-set with an excess of air of around 20-30%, I believe there is still enough residual air to inject even more (meaning, through a tuning box: for a longer duration) without it turning into a "smoke monster."

Your calculation is not entirely correct: a portion of the excess air is already lost through the larger nozzles. Furthermore, the specified excess air applies to steady-state operating conditions. The situation looks quite different under dynamic conditions. Otherwise, a production diesel engine wouldn't produce any soot.
However, they all do that if you really press the accelerator pedal when in a low gear.

Best regards, Albrecht.

Your calculation is not entirely correct: a portion of the excess air is already lost through the larger nozzles...

Thank you, but I think I already mentioned that...

.....Just for the REST of the air that remains!!!!

Regards,
Michl.