Cylinder Head Replacement: Camshaft Position Issue

Hello everyone,
My father's T5 had an engine failure at the beginning of the year due to a broken timing belt.
Engine disassembled, and a new cylinder head installed.


Okay, I've now realized that the camshaft sensor was forgotten, so I have to remove the timing belt cover again, align it with the markings, and use the special tool for that.
While doing this, I noticed that the camshaft gear wasn't fitting into the intended groove, which means the camshaft position wasn't correct (or am I mistaken?).

The question is, what now... It's definitely dangerous to spin the camshaft pulley wildly while the crankshaft is fixed.
I will add a few more pictures tomorrow.

Hello,

If you remove the spark plug from one of the cylinders, you can see if the camshaft is in the correct position.
When the piston is moving towards Top Dead Center (TDC), meaning it's almost at the top, the injection process from the PD element must have begun, and both the intake and exhaust valves must be open.

Caution: Do not force it or turn it too forcefully!

Best regards, Rainer.

Okay, great, just as I suspected, the camshaft sprocket isn't turning.
My colleague said it would work, and he did it.
The camshaft gear then rotated about a quarter of a turn, which appeared to require only moderate force. The repair manual also mentions pre-tensioning the camshaft gear, which...
I'm going to remove the spark plug from cylinder 1 tomorrow.

What could break if the NW (Northwest) is rotated?

Thanks for your quick reply, Rainer.

Best regards, Richard.

Hello!

Well, that's been in every timing belt manual and repair guide for 40 years, and every mechanic should have learned it in vocational school.

Just turn the crankshaft.

So, if the spark plugs or glow plugs are out, it's not necessarily a problem. If you do it slowly and carefully, it should work.

The camshaft gear has significantly more teeth than the crankshaft gear.

When you turn the engine by the camshaft, which requires considerable force, especially if you force it past the compression point, you risk overloading the timing belt.
You could potentially damage the teeth at the bottom of the crankshaft pulley, overstretch the timing belt, bend or damage the tensioner, or something similar.
You're essentially acting as a starter motor, but with a double gear ratio, and that little bit of timing belt has to withstand all that stress???


Now the question is, how much force was applied.
Okay, let's go very slowly and in small steps. If it's easy, everyone has probably turned the water heater's knob at some point, maybe out of laziness. Usually, nothing happens in that case.

The problem is that there was no timing belt installed when my colleague turned the water pump.

The timing belt was installed, the crankshaft was rotated to the timing mark and secured, and the fuel injection pump gear was also aligned and secured.
BUT
The rear wheel could not be secured because the fixing hole was too far away.
The arrow was not pointing upwards, which is what it should have been doing according to the repair manual.
So, I suspect that when the cylinder head was installed, the camshafts weren't in the correct position relative to the crankshaft.

Hi,
What engine are we talking about here? Engine identification code = ? In the last post, there's mention of an injector pump rotor. However, the camshaft sensor mentioned at the beginning suggests a "pump-injector" system, which is more common in the T5.

Herbert.

Hello Herbert,
It's a VW T5 with engine code CAAC.
I think you're right; it should be a "pump-nozzle" system, at least according to the repair manual.

A CAAC is a Common Rail engine.
"Probably, when you mention the injector pump rotor, you are referring to the rotor of the high-pressure pump."
You'll need the appropriate alignment tool that matches the CAAC system, and most importantly, the correct repair manual.
hg
Herbert.

Quote:

A CAAC is a Common Rail engine.

richieeee94 wrote:

Hello Herbert, It's a VW T5 with engine code CAAC. I think you're right, it should be a "pumpe düse," at least that's what it says in the repair manual

.
With a support key and Autoscan, it would be clear.

So, if it's not even clear which engine and which injection system we're talking about...

Quote:

...While doing this, I noticed that the camshaft gear wasn't fitting into the groove it's supposed to go into...

What kind of nut?
hg
Herbert.

The fixing for the rear wheel.
For this purpose, a rod is inserted through the rear wheel into the hole in the cylinder head.
The question is, if the rear wheel is removed, do two long holes become visible?
Which of the two long holes should the pin be inserted into for fixing?

The camshaft sprocket has a specific installation position; there are no elongated holes. Those are located on the pulley.
The OT position is clear.
hg
Herbert.

It's actually quite obvious, and there are several videos and tutorials available on YouTube.

Best regards,
Dago

Dagomanu wrote:

It's actually quite clearly visible, and there are several videos and tutorials on YouTube about it. Best regards, Dago

Please read the above post again. Then, consider which channel the locking pin is located in and how much the hub can rotate.

The statement above is correct.

Best regards, Rainer.

Oops, I think I missed a few posts. Please excuse me.
Best regards,
Dago