Retrofitting the VW Soundsystem in a Passat B6

Hello,
I would like to get rid of the built-in amplifier of the VW sound system.
The background is that the two front woofers failed over time. Therefore, I bought and installed a 2-component system. At that time, I was unaware that the VW sound system comes with a built-in amplifier from the factory.
It doesn't play well with other speakers, which manifests as a "rattling" sound at medium to high volumes. (However, the assumption that this symptom originates from the VW sound system is just a guess.)
Now I want to remove this amplifier, but to properly restore it to its original state, I would have to replace the entire central wiring harness for the dashboard on the right side, is that correct?

My idea for a workaround would be to buy a used control unit with the same connectors and disassemble it to create sockets for a custom-made connector that would connect the two amplifier cables. This would also allow me to install a better amplifier in place of the original one, if the radio alone isn't sufficient.
Can these sockets be purchased individually anywhere?
Is there perhaps a simpler alternative to that?

Thank you in advance.


Sincerely,

Does anyone know a part number for these "pins"/connectors that go into the fuse holder? And also, does anyone know of a tool to remove them?
I couldn't find anything like that in the parts catalog, only for the supply rail, as shown in the picture.

Hi,

if it's still relevant...
The fuse box uses SPT (Standard Power Timer) sockets (5.8/6.3mm?). You can find them, among other places, here:

Autoelektrik24

They also have unlocking tools there.
If needed, I can also provide you with other addresses where I source my small electrical supplies.

Best regards, Richard.

Thank you for the tip about the SPT connectors. Using them, I also (rather accidentally) discovered that the connectors on the amplifier also use Timer sockets (Junior Power Timer and Micro Timer).
Using the appropriate pins, I was able to temporarily connect the RNS (radio navigation system) to the retrofit amplifier for comparison (images 1, 2).
As expected, the rear speakers then stopped working.
While it does produce sound, you have to disable the amplifier in the radio for it to sound decent; otherwise, it sounds terrible.

For the power supply, the existing power cables have a combined cross-sectional area of 4.5 mm², which is sufficient for the one amplifier in my case.


"Even removing the retaining socket went perfectly with the right tool. You just need to know that beforehand, on the back of the fuse holder, the additional securing mechanism for the sockets (purple in Figure 3) needs to be moved. Be sure to pay attention to the clips (green) during this process."
I used it to connect my outlets to terminal 30; there are still some free connectors available.


In the next step, I will consolidate the wiring on the amplifier.