Does anyone have a tip on how to properly adjust the camber on a 3-series golf, which doesn't have the eccentric screw on the strut like the 2nd and 1st series , without having to spend hours screwing it back and forth?
Last edited on 28-05-2002, 16:37, edited 1 time in total.
You probably mean the fall.
Measure the drop when the vehicle is suspended.
Lift it up and read the value.
Subtract the value read from the vehicle's sensor when it's at its highest point from the value it has when it's at its lowest point, and set the resulting value (paying attention to the sign -- = +).
Actually, this doesn't cause much concern. It's simple. The adjustment can therefore be made on a completely unloaded bike and goes directly to the first attempt. Maybe don't completely loosen the nuts and adjust them with gentle taps.
Incidentally:
Since the pivot point of the steering is not at the level of the steering arm, a correction of the steering will significantly change the track.
Due to the spread and the delay, the track also has an influence on the fall. However, this influence is less significant.
Therefore, first adjust the camber. Then, adjust the toe. Only if the wheels were not even facing in the direction of the vehicle's axis when adjusting the camber, you need to re-adjust the toe after adjusting the camber. ...and then, of course, re-adjust the toe. That would be a disaster, though.
Thank you for having your autocorrect enabled. Of course, I meant the drop instead of the track, I idiot! That's a very good tip with the difference measurement method. However, it doesn't make so much sense for me, since I don't actually have a drop scale, but I only tried to measure the distance from the opposite shock absorber using a standard level on a flat surface, after I had removed the wheel hub housing from the shock absorber. But I'm probably going to leave that to a workshop anyway. Nevertheless, thank you for the tip!