Golf 3 TDI: Upgrade to 110 HP - How-to Guide

Hello,

I'm new here and I hope my questions aren't too basic or unprofessional.
Here's a technical question I have about the Golf III TDI: I own a Golf III TDI 90 hp 'cl Europe' model, manufactured in 1995. In other forums, I've read that the only differences between the 110 hp TDI and the 90 hp TDI in the Golf III are: the 110 hp TDI has a different turbocharger (with VTG), a different engine control unit (ECU), and different fuel injectors.
If I were to install the parts mentioned from a Golf III 110 PS TDI into my Golf III 90 PS TDI and have this modification approved by the TÜV (German technical inspection authority), I should effectively have a fully functional 110 PS TDI – as if I had purchased a Golf III 110 PS TDI from the factory.
This Golf III with its 110 HP TDI engine has some reserve power, and I could have it chip-tuned by a company like Hopa-Tuning to increase the power to 132 HP.
The suspension on my Golf shouldn't be a problem either, as I have an aftermarket sports suspension (Sachs 40/40) with a TÜV (German technical inspection) approval, which is also approved for the Golf 110 PS TDI.
However, my Golf III only has drum brakes in the rear. Could that be a problem?

I'm curious to hear what you think of the idea.

Thank you in advance for your answers!

Hello.

It's not quite that simple. The AFN (110 hp) engine has stronger components throughout compared to the 1Z (90 hp) engine.
I've had that problem before too. But I learned from this forum that quite a few more things were changed. Try using the search function, for example, to find information about upgrading from 90 to 110 horsepower.

To change the turbo, you also need the exhaust manifold, the 110mm exhaust system, the turbo itself, and the valve for controlling boost pressure. To control that valve, you'll need a 110mm engine control unit (ECU).
The injectors and the pump are different parts, which will likely significantly increase the cost.
The intake manifold and the EGR valve are different.
As far as I know, the 110 model also has reinforced bearings and stronger valves.

To achieve this, you need to change the front brakes (to a larger size). The rear drum brakes shouldn't be a problem.

Do what I did and install a complete 110 system. That way, you at least know it's reliable and safe. It's also cheaper. You can find used 110 systems for around 2000 euros.

I completely agree with Golfmann. It's the only sensible, much simpler, faster, and cheaper way.

Thank you very much for your answers.

Wow, I really thought it would be much more complex and expensive. For an extra 2000 euros, I could have gotten a G3 that comes standard with an AFN. And then I wouldn't have had to invest the time and effort of replacing the entire engine!

I will probably stick with my 1Z and most likely give it a Hopa tuning. Their tuning has been praised in 'Auto Motor Sport' (see http://www.hopa-tec.de/messe/upload/pressepics/artikel_17.pdf)), among other things. Their philosophy is not to achieve high peaks in the power and torque curve, but rather to maintain a very large proportion of the maximum torque over a wide speed range. When you look at their power diagrams and read what 'Auto Motor Sport' writes, it seems they are successful in achieving this.
Furthermore, based on my subjective experience during a phone call I had with them, they seemed exceptionally knowledgeable. For example, they were able to tell me exactly which parts I would need for my renovation project (converting a 1-bedroom apartment into an AVN - 'Apartment with Living and Nook') for different model years, and approximately how much they would cost.

They said that it would probably be possible to increase the power and torque of my Golf to just above the AFN level without any major problems. If I wanted more, they would be happy to adjust it accordingly, but they would advise against it.

What do you think about Hopa?
Is there anything I've written that is complete nonsense?

Of the 2000 EUR, you naturally have to deduct your sales proceeds and any potential (though not substantial) increase in value.

The whole thing, including the conversion to Climatronic, cost me approximately 500 EUR in total.

I've read the report about Hopa. I find it very interesting, especially how they manage to maintain such a high torque curve.
It's certainly gentler on the powertrain than having a huge amount of torque available right from low RPMs. It's better to start with a little less, but have it last longer.
The elasticity values will undoubtedly improve significantly as a result.

I don't know what your mileage is, but I'm guessing you've probably driven over 100,000 km. At that mileage, you won't be eligible for any warranty or guarantee on engine or transmission damage. But that's the case with all tuners.

What I also appreciate about Hopa is that the installation of the BOx seems to be carefully calibrated. It's not just a matter of simply inserting the box and starting.
Do you happen to have any information about the prices for a 1Z auxiliary control unit?

'@Varianti: You also have to factor in all the work and stress involved in buying and selling the parts, in addition to the €500. And if you break something in the process, it will become even more expensive.'

Ich ziehe dann doch die „Spießerlösung“ vor, selbst keine Hand anzulegen, sondern dass Hopa (oder einem anderen Tuner zu überlassen). Bei denen kostet es 699,- EUR den 1Z knapp über AFN-Niveau zu heben. Das ist I'd rather have it myself.


@x world one: Yes, as I mentioned, I also really liked the better torque curve. In my opinion, that's much more important than a high maximum value – a high maximum value only damages the mechanics.

Yes, they offer a customized tuning service tailored to the specific vehicle and customer preferences. As I mentioned, if you explicitly request it, you can get a few more horsepower/Nm than they would normally recommend, but in that case, the warranty will be void.

Based on my very limited knowledge, the device seems to be quite sophisticated. According to the manufacturer, it has learning software that adapts to the vehicle it's installed in over time. Additionally, it naturally operates based on performance and engine speed.

Yes, and I can give you prices: The G3 with 1Z costs 699 EUR.

Can anyone share their experiences with them?
Perhaps someone among them might advise me against it?

Partyburner wrote:

... Based on my very limited knowledge, the device seems to be quite sophisticated. According to the manufacturer, it has learning software that adapts to the vehicle it's installed in over time. Additionally, it naturally operates based on performance and engine speed.

... whoever believes will be blessed, and whoever doesn't will also go to heaven.

"I don't believe they fundamentally changed the module for the VP37 last year! But the module I saw was a simple one that regulated a 10-cent tuning using a transistor. Nothing more, nothing less, just with a TÜV (German technical inspection agency) certificate. When I pointed out this "fraud" to those guys at a trade show, I was immediately asked to leave their booth. After that, the VP modules were quickly reinstalled. I think that says it all, doesn't it?"

The box in your article is a PD box, and it must be a processor box because that's where the signals are directly modified.

Hmm, that's not great, of course.
Who makes good enclosures for the 1Z engine? ks-systems or authal?
Unfortunately, neither of them had a performance chart available.
Does the "10-cent tuning" actually achieve such a torque curve?

Currently, I can't think of any VP37 enclosure that doesn't operate on the 10-cent system. Even the Authal box does. Some just have more or less elaborate control or activation mechanisms. In principle, you get the same result with 10 cents as you would with an enclosure.

The Authal Box has the advantage that it regulates the resistance based on boost pressure - Ulf also uses it in his AFN.

Ulfs Signatur wrote:

He has 130 horsepower with the Authal box.

"If you do a little digging in the archives, you can find a 'tuning guide' for Ulf's Authal Box."
Some other devices use the LMM signal directly, while others simply delay the activation of the resistor after the ignition is turned on.

Hello x world one,

Have you actually read the pro/con article about chip tuning boxes?
I think you're more likely to be a candidate for a chip.
Theoretically, you can influence the torque curve in any way you want (if you find a "simple" tuner ).
I wouldn't want to waste that much money on it; it's a 10-cent upgrade that you can switch on and off at will!

Best regards,
Albrecht.

Okay, I've already read several technical articles, including one about the pros and cons of chip tuning/boxes. I mostly drive on country roads, and often for long distances. So, I also need good elasticity values for overtaking.
The 10cent tuning has also fascinated me, but I am only deterred by the lack of official approval. Furthermore, I am still looking for the correct connector for the 1Z where I need to connect it .
Please excuse my ignorance, but I've only owned a diesel car for the past two weeks. Unfortunately, the "Now I'll help myself" book discusses more TD engines than TDI engines, so I haven't been able to figure it out completely on my own.

Regarding the chip:
What I've noticed is that most tuners don't adjust the chip on the test bench. Instead, they install a chip that has already been calibrated once on a 1Z engine. If I'm getting a chip tune, I want it to be done properly, with the chip being adjusted specifically for my engine.

@Bertil
I've already read about the Authal BOX, including Ulf's reports on it. That would be my preferred solution, but I was just asking for a recommendation again. Although, at the moment, all of this seems a bit too expensive to me.
If someone can help me with the problem above, I would be grateful. As I said, I'm only concerned about the correct connection; soldering is not a problem for me.

edit:
@Albrecht: These 80% of driving on country roads are due to the daily commute from Glaubitz to Dresden and back .

@Bertil:
"Something else I just remembered: if all the parking meters operate on the 10-cent principle, it doesn't matter where you buy them. The important thing is to have one with a "smart" system, like those from Authal or Hopa, and it must have TÜV certification, otherwise you might actually be doing illegal modifications."

The box in your article is a PD box, and that must be a processor box, because that's where the signals are directly modified.

According to the Hopa website, the non-PD box is also referred to as a 'processor box.'
Could it be that something has changed with them in the past year?


Here's what else I thought: If all the parking meters operate on the 10-cent principle, it doesn't matter where you buy them. The main thing is to have one with a 'smart' system, like those from Authal or Hopa, and it must have TÜV approval, otherwise you really can end up with 10-cent 'tuning.'

Hmm - it sounds quite reasonable, doesn't it? No matter how they ultimately do it (whether with cheap methods or more complex ones). If, according to the test, they perform better than other chip tuners, and there's a TÜV (German technical inspection authority) report included, and they also offer individual adjustments on a dynamometer (which they promised me over the phone), then Hopa seems like a good choice, right?

Partyburner wrote:

According to the Hopa website, the non-PD box is also referred to as a "processor box."

Don't be fooled – the "processor" is likely only needed to adjust the signal to match the mass airflow (MAF) value or the boost pressure.

Quote:

Could it be that something has changed with them in the past year?

What do you think a TÜV (German technical inspection) report for something like that would cost? - Somewhere between €50,000 and €150,000! You probably think a manufacturer would completely redesign their product and just casually spend that money for a new approval. Well, I can't imagine that. And then, for a "dying breed" like the VP TDI.

Quote:

Regardless of how they ultimately do it (whether with low-cost methods or more complex ones). If, according to the test, they perform better than other box/chip tuners, and a TÜV certificate is included, and furthermore, an individual adjustment to the vehicle and customer preferences is performed on a dynamometer (which they promised me over the phone), then Hopa is a good choice, right?

"Of course, the tuning will be adjusted on the dynamometer. The resistor will be adjusted as far as possible while still minimizing soot production, yet still providing performance. You can also determine this yourself through test drives. The dynamometer test is often just a show. A computer is connected (which the customer usually doesn't understand anything about...), and a few things are tapped on it (without actually doing anything), and then you have your "tuned" device. It's strange that a customer who receives the device without any tuning often gets the same result! Salespeople can talk a lot."
Even if the resistance is simulated electronically (as in the HOPA Box), it's essentially just a 10-cent tuning modification.
You already know my opinion about HOPA, and I would rather spend the money on a decent chip (one that can be properly adjusted). This chip often also slightly increases the boost pressure, which significantly reduces smoke, and you should be able to find one for around €700. That's the much better way to go.
I've seen so many tests about tuning boxes, and each time a different one wins – it really depends on the specific product being tested and the conditions on that particular day. I even remember a test where the HOPA VP box came in last! Don't judge the VP box based on the PD box; they are completely different products.

This brings us to the points discussed in the article "pro & contra Box/Chip." However, I have to say that you should only buy a chip if you don't want to have it adjusted on a dynamometer. If you buy a tuning chip and have it programmed on a dynamometer, you might as well just use the stock chip and have that programmed instead. In the end, it's the same thing, except you haven't had a different chip installed. For this reason, almost no tuners offer adjustments of their chips on a dynamometer; at least, that's what I've gathered from most sources.
The only advantage of a tuning chip and its adjustment is that you might have less work to do because the Nm/power curve is already roughly adjusted and only needs to be slightly adapted to the specific characteristics of the engine. With a stock chip, everything has to be reprogrammed completely.

And now, the question:
Is it really worth adjusting a "mass-produced" TDI tuning chip on a dynamometer, considering these aspects? I can't imagine that a custom adjustment for each specific engine would make that much of a difference, unless there's a significant variation in the standard production of the engines. However, when combined with additional tuning modifications like a larger intercooler or larger injectors, it makes sense to me because you then achieve a completely different engine characteristic.
But if you only want to install a single chip, is it really worth adjusting it on a dynamometer...?