Remove Stuck Alloy Wheels: Easy Guide & Tips

Hey fellow mechanics,

Now it's happened to me too. The problem likely goes back about six months when I installed the aluminum rims (standard equipment) and didn't lubricate the rim mounting area with grease.
Right now, they definitely won't come off. The screws weren't a problem, but the rims are really stuck on tight.
Here are some tricks I've already tried unsuccessfully:
1. Remove the rim cap and spray some penetrating oil into the gap.
2. Rock the car back and forth with loose screws, without using a jack.
Drive the car with loose screws at a very slow speed and then brake hard.

Neither method worked. The rims are really stuck on tight. I was actually trying to avoid hitting the inside of the rims with a hammer.

Does anyone have any other suggestions on how to do this? Could it possibly help to warm the rims, hoping that they will come loose due to uneven expansion and contraction of aluminum and steel?

Greetings.

Eike.

Hello Eike!

If I understand you correctly, the rims are attached to the hub using the centering mechanism, right?

Okay, I would securely jack up the vehicle (preferably not with the standard car jack) and secure it against rolling away. Then, loosen all but two wheel bolts. The two remaining wheel bolts should be approximately opposite each other and loosened enough so that the rim can move axially by at least 3 mm on its center point.
Then I would take a heavy sledgehammer and hit the rim from the inside. While doing this, I would keep turning the wheel so that the rim can come loose evenly.
If you don't have a rubber mallet, you can use a regular hammer and place something like a piece of wood (e.g., a strip of roofing lath) or similar material between the hammer and the rim to prevent damage.

Übrigens mit Kriechöl, Fett und anderen Schmierstoffen im Bereich der Auflageflächen zwischen Felge und Nabe wäre ich vorsichtig. An der Nabenzentrierung spricht eigentlich nichts dagegen, wenn man diese ein wenig mit Fett bestreicht. Allerdings sollte Fett niemals zwischen die Anlageflächen geraten, da das Rad kraftschlüssig über den Reibschluss an der Anlagefläche gehalten wird. Die Schraubenverbindungen dürfen keine Querkräfte abbekommen! Die Schraubenvorspannkraft sorgt allein dafür, dass die Reibkraft zwischen Felge und Nabe sämtliche Drehmomente und Querkräfte übertragen kann. Wenn man nun durch Auftragen von Schmierstoff den Reibbeiwert an der Kontaktfläche reduziert könnte das u.U. schwerwiegende Folgen haben! Also Let it be.

Regards,
Alex.

Hi,

Okay, then go ahead and hit the inner rim of each wheel... so you can immediately send them to the junkyard.

The inner rim edge is the most vulnerable part of an aluminum wheel. The outer rim edge is relatively stable in aluminum wheels due to its proximity to the center hub (unless it's a low-profile wheel). Therefore, curb impacts are often less dangerous than they appear.

Removing stuck aluminum rims should only be done with gentle, even force. A rim removal tool or a hydraulic press (or even a jack, if necessary) can work wonders. However, it is often not possible to use such tools without risking damage.

"I've had this problem with my father's golf cart several times in recent years. So, I loosened the wheel rim - only two screws came out about 1mm - and then drove it around. When it starts to rattle, the rim comes loose."

Hi everyone,

First of all, thank you for the tips. I'll try the circular method. The rims are the original rims from the Golf 4 Special and are probably very expensive if one needs to be replaced. That's why I really don't want to use a hammer...
What kind of grease would you recommend for coating the threads next time (very thinly, of course)?

Greetings.

Eike.

PS: Why are the rims painted instead of anodized? Wouldn't an anodized layer in the rim hub largely prevent corrosion?

Quote:

What kind of grease would you recommend to use to coat the surface next time (very thinly, of course)?

Copper paste, I've never had that problem before, but also I only have one car with alloy wheels .

Best regards, Rainer.

I had that problem last year! I then, as advised, wedged the car with chocks and secured it, and from behind, I would always kick against it with my foot/shoe! Eventually, it came loose!

eike wrote:

... What kind of grease would you recommend to apply to the receiver next time (very thinly, of course)? ...

... none at all, just copper paste, because the hub gets too hot and the grease thins out quickly (and could potentially get into the brake).

Hi there,

I once saw at a Volkswagen workshop that they were applying some kind of lubricant to the mounting point. Presumably, it was to prevent exactly this type of seizing.
What could it have been? Is there a standard procedure for this?
What exactly is in the copper paste? Copper alone would just be like a powder. There must be something that holds it together.

Greetings.

Eike.

"But I've also applied copper grease now. And I usually remove the wheels by kicking them forcefully on the highest point of the rim, assuming I have a decent jack."

hello,
Who among you is familiar with the electrochemical series?
Copper (paste) and aluminum, when combined with an electrolyte (saltwater), form a well-functioning battery! So, who wants the less noble material to dissolve into oxide? If you do, then continue using copper paste. By the way, this also works just as well with modern brake calipers made of aluminum. Mechanics who know this often use Plastilube on brakes. I'm happy to hear your suggestions for wheel centering.
Have fun!
Gerrit.

Hello,

My aluminum rims are 5 years old. Nothing is corroding on them. They definitely use enough salt for de-icing in the Fichtel Mountains.
That's all for now regarding theory and practice.
By the way: Iron (Fe: -0.44V) is also less noble than aluminum (-2.34V). Copper: +0.34V. Theoretically, a reaction should already occur between copper and iron in saltwater... or between the ventilation nipple on the brake caliper (iron) and the brake caliper itself (aluminum). Well, unfortunately, my front brake calipers are made of cast steel, which means the unsprung mass is a bit higher. It's progress through technology, I guess.

I'm not familiar with Plastilube, but if it's better, then I'll use it.
Where is that used? Certainly not in the workshops of the premium brand .
As you correctly pointed out, in theory, a copper-free solution is definitely better.

I usually center the rims using the appropriate lug nuts, without making a big fuss or writing a dissertation about it.

Best regards, Rainer.

Hello


I'm not familiar with Plastilube, but if it's better, then you just use that.
Where is that even used? Definitely not in the workshops of a premium brand.


Plastilube is used, for example, in the workshop at Mercedes .

Hi,
I often use copper paste.
I've also found warnings on other websites about using them with aluminum fittings that are exposed to high temperatures, specifically exhaust systems on BMW boxer engines. Ceramic paste is recommended for those applications, and CRC offers some.
While I don't fully understand why copper works well with steel despite the potential differences between them, that's just how it is.
It is also known that AlCu alloys are more susceptible to corrosion than, for example, AlSi alloys. (In AlCu alloys, finely dispersed copper-rich zones (Guinier-Preston zones) form, which hinder the movement of atoms and thus increase strength, but at the same time act as local sites where corrosion can initiate.)

Specifically, the exhaust manifold on the BMW boxer engine cylinder head.

He's also completely unresponsive to any attempts at repair.

smooth, consistent acceleration with a slight vibration.

CU Gremlin.

By the way, my 'old grandpa's box' also succumbed to electrochemical corrosion, but only in areas where copper paste was definitely never applied.
It probably stems from the fact that steel, aluminum, and copper paste don't know that they need to steal electrons from each other...