Diesel Engine Heats Up Quickly - Troubleshooting

Okay, so...

I'm now on my third TDI.

The first one, an Audi 80 Avant from 1989 with only 90 horsepower, took about 10-12 kilometers before the first warm air came out of the heater.

My 1996 A3 with 110 horsepower would reach a somewhat warm temperature after about 6-7 kilometers.

In my new A4 Avant PD130, manufactured in 2004, the first blast of warm air starts after an incredible 1000-1500 meters, which already defrosts the windows, and after about 2-3 kilometers, the car becomes noticeably warm.
I've already been looking for a supplementary heater, but I haven't found anything.

I can't imagine that it's just the glow plugs in the coolant, or is there any electrical assistance provided within the heating system itself?

Hello,
Do you have an Audi 80 Avant from 1989?
There's nothing like that. Are you referring to Type B4 (perhaps confused with Type 89)?
My Audi 80 TDI warms up relatively quickly (in 4-5 minutes), but the engine takes a very long time to reach its operating temperature.
My father also has an A4 PD130, and it gets extremely hot very quickly; it *must* have a pre-heater. There's no other explanation, but everyone says it doesn't have one.

Sure, here is the translation of the text from German to English:

'MFG' stands for 'Mit freundlichen Grüßen,' which translates to 'Sincerely' or 'Best regards' in English. It is a common way to end a formal letter or email.

@wurstblinker:

"leolotus probably meant the year of manufacture, 1989, and not a specific model designation."


@leolotus:

For some time now, there have been electric heating modules that can be installed either in parallel or in series with the coolant heat exchanger. These immediately provide warm air, completely independent of the engine temperature.
While it might be nice for comfort, I consider it complete nonsense from an energy perspective. The electrical energy is generated in the vehicle with such a poor efficiency that it should be used as sparingly as possible.

Regards,
Alex.

Sure, here is the translation of the text from German to English:

[@wurstblinker:]

meant year of manufacture 1989.

@donalexo

What surprises me is that the water gets warm so quickly .

@leolotus:

Then, for me, there are only 3 plausible explanations:

"There is a supplementary heater installed in the cooling circuit, which can be either electric or diesel-powered."
2. The PD engine has a speed-controlled coolant pump (electrically powered and independent of the engine's rotational speed).
3. The permanent magnet motor has a poor efficiency.

However, I consider option 3 to be very unlikely.

Regards,
Alex.

An Audi 80 Avant TDI from the year 1989 must have been a very, very early prototype .

Hi,
In addition to the electric heating, the new models also have a water-cooled EGR system for exhaust gas reasons, assuming it is in working order.

An Audi 80 Avant TDI from the year 1989 must have been a very, very early prototype .


hehe. That's right.

reverse, reverse...
grumble...
Oh, I seem to have included one too many cars in the calculation.

So correct officially: it was a 1993 model .

Hi,
Besides the electric heating, the new models also have a water-cooled EGR system for exhaust gas reasons, as long as it is ''.


I was just thinking about the new 2.0 TDI engine, not the 1.9 one.

I'll take a look later.

leolotus wrote:

christians wrote: Hi, Besides the electric heating, the new models also have a water-cooled EGR system for exhaust gas reasons, as long as it is " ". I was just thinking about the new 2.0 TDI engine, not the 1.9 one. I will take a look later

.

In this thread, you can learn about water-cooled EGR systems and which engines they are used in (like my AXR).

/viewtopic.php?t=4521&highlight=water-cooled+agriculture

The catalytic converter in my colleague's Octavia also gets surprisingly hot very quickly (water temperature). Even when he doesn't drive it out of the yard and drives it at low RPMs, which is typical for TDI engines. Despite having a faulty EGR valve.

I haven't actually examined the cylinder head of a direct-injection engine closely. Could it be that the exhaust passages in the head are significantly longer and therefore require cooling?

I can't look it up right now; it's currently in A .

CU Gremlin.

Hello,

It is also possible that the warming of the fuel by the piezo elements in the cylinder head plays a role. In principle, the fuel becomes hotter due to the high pressures of piezo injection compared to, for example, an older distributor injection pump on the 1Z engine.

Best regards, Rainer.

But it's crazy how well it performs when driving slowly at 1500 rpm and 50 km/h?

CU Gremlin.

Okay, so my auxiliary heating system takes a relatively long time to warm up, even when driving very economically. Unfortunately, I don't have a heat pump either. It hasn't gotten too bad yet in terms of feeling cold on the way to work. Although warmer air does start coming out of the vents fairly quickly, it still takes quite a while for them to get really hot – long enough to read a book. What's even better is that for the first half of my commute, the road is always slightly uphill or level, and that's when the auxiliary heating system reaches its displayed maximum temperature of 80°C. The second half of the journey is mostly very steep downhill, so I often let it roll in "push" mode (electric assist off). Today, with a display reading of -9.5°C, the temperature gauge had returned almost to its lowest setting by the time I reached my destination. Since I don't have a heat pump, I'm increasingly considering getting a stationary heater. Not just because *I* feel cold... I think the auxiliary heating system isn't happy either!

donalexo wrote:

For quite some time, there have been electric heating modules that can be installed either in parallel or in series with the coolant heat exchanger. These immediately provide warm air, completely independently of the engine temperature. While it's certainly nice for comfort, I consider it complete nonsense from an energy perspective. The electrical energy is generated in the vehicle with such a poor efficiency that it should be used as sparingly as possible.

Hi Alex,

I believe the question of efficiency is irrelevant here (for the time being).
Because with a low efficiency, the power loss is generally high. But power loss (no matter where it occurs) practically always manifests mainly as heat, and that is exactly what is desired here .

When you mention the diesel fuel used to generate electricity for heating and the engine's efficiency, that waste heat also helps to warm up the engine more quickly, essentially in the same way as with a geothermal heat pump (GSH).

Therefore, I can't really find anything negative about electric air heaters... at least not more than I can find with a geothermal heat pump (GSH).

Hi everyone,

Actually, we could merge the two threads, but maybe it's better not to.

This morning, I checked the oil temperature and mileage.

Starting at -2 degrees Celsius, then driving 2 kilometers through a 30 km/h zone. I usually drive around 35...38 km/h in that zone, using the cruise control in 4th gear (around 1000 RPM), which consumes about 3...5 liters per 100 kilometers, depending on how cold the car is. So it's really a leisurely pace.

After driving for 1 kilometer, I had reached 20 degrees Celsius (and it was noticeable that some warm air was coming out of the vents), and after 2 kilometers, it was 33 degrees Celsius.

After that, I continued at 55 km/h from traffic light to traffic light. At kilometer 3, the temperature was 41 degrees, and at kilometer 4 it was 48 degrees. I didn't track it any further because I didn't want to remember so many numbers, and I had already posted the rest of the information.

Best regards,

January.