AGR Deactivated: Behavior Unchanged?

Hi!

I finally found and unplugged the connector for the control valve today!

During a short test drive, I couldn't detect many changes. However, I can now drive at extremely low RPMs. As far as I remember, before, it used to jerk noticeably in 4th gear at around 50 km/h, but now it pulls well if I suddenly accelerate to full throttle.

Is that normal? I haven't even seen the preheating coil blink yet.

However, I've also noticed that I can quite clearly hear when the turbo kicks in from inside the car (without the radio on). It's not noticeable as a typical whistling sound (like at the dentist's), but rather as a more diffuse sound, similar to what you might hear from an unprotected microphone on a camcorder.

AGR-related articles:
similar to leaks between the turbocharger and the engine, which are often characterized by a noticeable hissing or whistling sound (due to the escaping boost pressure being vented into the engine compartment).

Could I have a leak? The performance is actually as I expect it to be, I don't have any comparison values. Top speed with the box is 200 km/h on a straight road.

Is there an easy way for me to detect these leaks? Where should I start looking?

Best regards,
MisterX

PS: Compliments to this website! I've never learned so much about TDI engines, and something new is added every day.

Is there an easy way for me to detect these leaks? Where should I start looking?

Check if there's any oil leaking between the plastic pipes and the rubber hoses.
There is always a small amount of oil from the crankcase ventilation system in the intercooler pipes. If the pipes have a leak anywhere, oil will leak out.

There was already a thread about that this week, I think it was started by donalexo. You should try searching for it.

Otherwise, you can find a lot of information using the search function.

However, it now accelerates well when I suddenly give it full throttle.

That's exactly what you observe when the EGR system stops working. So, you've unplugged the correct connector.


I haven't even seen the preheating indicator light blink yet.


Your Golf 3 doesn't actually have a 'glow coil,' but just a simple orange LED! But even in the 1Z, it doesn't light up for every little thing. It doesn't even light up when the engine goes into limp mode. However, you will still likely have an error entry... It's better to disable the EGR valve mechanically. (I think the metal plate is the best option).

Okay, for me, the 'glowing filament' is simply a symbol, regardless of whether it's illuminated on its own, like in the G4, or whether the background is also illuminated, as in the G3. In any case, both are illuminated by LEDs. Or is there really a different difference?

The error message didn't matter to me right now. I planned to deal with the metal part later, when I have someone with me who has the tools and the experience to work on engines. I'm not very good at that kind of thing.

However, something else caught my attention today:

Someone here (you, DocSnydor?) wrote that the car takes longer to warm up without the EGR valve. I can't confirm that. If I hadn't known that I had disconnected the EGR valve, I wouldn't have noticed anything.


Regarding the leak:
I suspect I might have a very small leak, as the performance seems to be okay. But can such a small leak cause those noises? Or would I only notice the leak through a change in performance, rather than through exhaust smoke? In fact, there's no exhaust smoke (and there never has been), but the noise is present and has been since I've owned the car, and it's only noticeable without the radio on.


Best regards,
MisterX.

@misterx

Okay, I drove a 1Z for a long time. Most of the time, the EGR valve was unfortunately defective. I can definitely confirm that it's possible to achieve a slower increase in temperature! Perhaps your EGR valve has the problem that it doesn't close 100%, even with the connector disconnected or the hoses blocked. That's what happened with the one I had. The only solution is the famous metal plate.

Regarding your boost pressure problem: what happens when you compare the target and actual boost pressure values? Does the actual value quickly follow the target value, or does it take a while? If it takes a while, you likely have a small leak somewhere. This can cause the system to eventually reach the target boost pressure, but with a delay. Carefully inspect all the air intake hoses to see if you notice any oil leaks. Also, take a close look at the thin hoses connected to the control system. These are often porous and therefore prone to leaks.

Unfortunately, I am unable to display the boost pressure curve because I currently don't have the money for the diagnostic adapter (and I don't have a lambda sensor -> see here).

Can anyone tell me if and where I can buy these connectors? Not just the diagnostic connector, but also the connectors that are installed in the engine compartment, such as those on the AGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation), ESP (Electronic Stability Program), etc.
Then I might try to build something like that myself.

BTW: Is there a VAG-Com equivalent for Linux?


Best regards,
MisterX.

Unfortunately, I am unable to display the boost pressure curve because I currently don't have the money for the diagnostic connector (and I don't have an LDA -> see here).

Can anyone tell me if and where I can buy these connectors? Not just the diagnostic connector, but also the connectors that are installed in the engine compartment, such as those on the AGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation), ESP (Electronic Stability Program), etc.
Then I might try to build something like that myself.

BTW: Is there a VAG-Com equivalent for Linux?


Best regards,
MisterX

Then no one can really help you! But the diagnostic adapter isn't that expensive. You might find the individual parts at Conrad for around 10 €, or check ULF's version. Or ask here in the webshop! And VAG-COM as shareware is sufficient!

There is no VCDS (VAG-COM) software specifically for Linux. While there are some OBD-II tools available, they are not suitable for our TDI vehicles because OBD-II was only mandated for diesel passenger cars starting in 2005.

That's why I'm asking about the connector. There was no information about it in the online shop, and if I can get the vehicle-specific connectors, I'd rather make the cable myself. Otherwise, I'll just have to wait until I have an extra 50 euros.

Okay, now I understand! So, about...

www.obd-ii.de
www.OBD-Shop.de

Hopefully, you'll find what you're looking for! But be warned, these parts can be quite expensive! In a pinch, you can use a solder tab that you insert into the contacts.

Oh yeah, they are really expensive.

It's almost worth saving money and just buying a ready-made cable... that way, I can also break fewer things .

Is this cable suitable for use in this shop? It looks so strange...

Hi Misterx,

Perhaps you should read what it says: "Adapter for 2x2 configuration for older vehicles."

You would need this:

http://shop.dieselschrauber.de/product_info.php/products_id/45

The adapter above is only intended to allow connection to the older plug standard.

Best regards,

Jan.