ZR Replacement: Additional Work & Costs

Hello,

Since my timing belt is due for replacement, I'm considering which additional work can or should be done at the same time. Specifically, I'm thinking about things that can only be done with the timing belt removed. The engine is a 1Z with almost 180,000 km.

With the timing chain cover removed, it looks like this . It looks suspiciously oily; is it the head gasket or just the crankshaft seal? (if one can say that so generally).
The engine itself looks something like this:

Do you have any more suggestions for me about what I should consider exchanging right away?

Thank you very much.
Henrik.

Hello Henrik,

In addition to the timing belt, you should definitely also inspect the KW (Kupplungs Wellen - clutch shaft) screw and the truncated cone of the KW. The KW screw should have a specified strength, currently I believe 12.8, which should be marked on the screw. Just read a bit further in this forum, and you will find various 1Z models with a damaged truncated cone because the KW screw was still the original one with insufficient strength. Next, check all the seals for leaks and, before replacing the timing belt, determine where the oil is leaking from.

Ah, thanks for the tip about the KW screw, I would have forgotten about that otherwise.
I've already been looking for an oil leak, but I haven't found anything. As far as I can tell, it must be leaking from behind the metal plate that's located between the timing belt and the engine, and then being pushed forward onto the plate. That's why I suspect it's the camshaft seal. It's kind of the only place where a significant amount of oil could potentially leak past that plate.

Hi,

How old is the WaPu?
If it's the first time you're changing them, I would definitely replace them at 180,000 km. Otherwise, you might end up having to do the job again around 200,000 km.

Here's another question: I think I can see some oil mist on the tensioner pulley in the upper picture (on the edges), or is that just an illusion from the photo? If the timing chain tensioner is completely full of oil, that could be very detrimental to the lifespan of the timing chain.
The crankshaft oil seal (NW Simmerring) on my 1Z also failed 10,000 km after the timing belt change... great. Luckily, the workshop took responsibility for the damage back then, and I only had to pay for the oil seal.

Hi,

How old is the WaPu?
If it's the first time you're changing them, I would definitely replace them at 180,000 km. Otherwise, you might end up having to do the job again around 200,000 km.



Um... Wapu, 1Z. I think it's driven by a V-ribbed belt. Or was it different on my 1Z?

'But I would definitely also replace the camshaft seals!'

Bertil wrote:

Hi, How old is the WaPu? If it's the first time you're changing them, I would definitely replace them at 180,000 km. Otherwise, you might end up having to do the job again around 200,000 km.

Unfortunately, I have no idea, but thankfully I'm not as concerned as many other TDI drivers, because I'm lucky enough to have a setup where the water pump isn't attached to the timing chain, as joergs pointed out.

Quote:

Here's another question: I think I can see some oil mist on the tensioner pulley in the upper picture (on the edges), or is that just an illusion from the photo? If the timing chain tensioner is completely full of oil, that could be very detrimental to the lifespan of the timing chain. The NW Simmerring was also defective on my 1Z, just 10,000 km after the timing belt replacement... great thing, only good that the workshop took responsibility for the damage back then, and I only had to pay for the Simmerring.

You are absolutely right, there's oil with some dirt in the corners. The entire plastic cover was completely soaked with oil from the inside before these photos were taken, mainly in the rear area that faces the passenger compartment, i.e., on the narrow back wall of the cover. It seemed like the oil was dripping down there. So, I will have the NW seal replaced. The workshop mentioned that with 180,000 km, it's also becoming increasingly likely that it could be a head gasket issue. However, I haven't noticed any direct oil consumption, and I'm not entirely sure about the water level, but it doesn't seem to be much.
Can the timing chain tensioner also be replaced?

There's definitely some truth to what's said about the cylinder head. However, when replacing the cylinder head, it's also advisable to replace components like the hydraulic lifters, camshaft, valves, etc., based on their mileage.
Hmmm, it's a matter of conscience. If you change it now, the head gasket might fail within 20,000 km, but it might also last until the next scheduled change. I would leave it. As long as there are no oil leaks and the engine doesn't consume oil or water... that's my opinion. Others might see it differently. You have to decide for yourself. But as I said, if you do end up taking the head off, please have the rest done at the same time, otherwise it won't be long before you have problems again and have to start all over!

joergs wrote:

um... wapu, 1z, um. I think it's driven by a timing belt. Or was it different on my 1z?

That may be the case, but if you've already disassembled everything on the timing belt system, it makes sense to replace the water pump at the same time.

x world one wrote:

You are absolutely right, there is oil with a little dirt on it in the corners.

Oh dear, that doesn't sound good at all. Oil on the timing chain is pretty much the worst thing that can happen. If you disassemble everything, you can quickly figure out where the oil is coming from.

um... wapu, 1z, um. I think it's driven by a timing belt. Or was it different on my 1z?


That may be the case, but if you've already disassembled everything on the timing belt system, it makes sense to replace the water pump at the same time.


Okay, I just realized it's a Golf. It's even a bit tighter in there than in a Passat. Changing the water pump is a real pain because it's hard to reach!

Okay, thanks everyone. So, I'll leave the ZKD in place; if it comes, then it comes.
I'll also have the nozzles checked again regarding the spray pattern. Overhauling the contents of the head would be a bit too expensive for me right now; if it were necessary, it wouldn't be a problem, but not based on suspicion .

Hi,

Do not forget the intermediate shaft seal . If you're already there, remove the rear splash guard and replace the core plug closures at the same time (see the search function).

Okay, I didn't actually change the ZR myself; I might have made it sound like I did. Unfortunately, I don't have the tools for it, and even though I can use the garage, it's only for a few hours, and it's unheated, which is quite cold at -4°C.

So, I got the car taken away.
The following actions were taken:
1. ZR exchange.
2. V-belt.
3. Simmer rings for crankshaft, ...
4. KW screw replaced.
5. div. Small things.

Now I've noticed a few things.
In my opinion, the car pulls better when it's warm. I also think it doesn't "lug" as much as I've described in other threads.
However, it didn't want to start properly today. I turned the ignition key, and nothing happened; I thought the battery was dead. Then, it finally started, and with a little gas, it turned over and immediately ran smoothly. However, the idle speed seemed too high when it was cold; the tachometer needle was slightly above 1000 RPM, which has also been the case yesterday. When warm, the idle speed drops to around 950-980 RPM, as far as I can tell from the tachometer. But when the lights are turned on, I hear a strange noise coming from the engine compartment; it's hard to describe, it sounds like "rrrrrr," kind of like a "rolling" sound. It's also audible with the hood open, but only when the engine is warm and the lights are on.
Is the idle speed completely off? The engine seems to be running under more load when the lights are on, but it goes away when you start driving.
I'm going to go back there and show them the logical explanation, but I would really like to have some more information beforehand.

Sure, no problem.

Henrik.

Hi,
That sounds like...
I'm sorry, but I cannot access external websites or specific files online. Therefore, I am unable to translate the text from the provided URL.
With illumination, the load on the belts and the tensioning pulleys is higher.
If he's running more smoothly now, the injection timing might have been too early before. If that's the case, the EDC (Electronic Diesel Control) might not be able to correct it anymore.
However, you shouldn't expect significantly more power. Unless, like in my case, the initial setting was so drastically wrong that you were constantly running in limp mode under certain conditions. You should notice this if the EDC (Electronic Stability Control) starts reducing power.

Hello Christians,

It could really be that. I had enough time and opportunity this morning to listen to the noise while the car was stationary. I would now describe it as a rattling sound, but it's very loud and dull.
During this process, I noticed that this only occurs below the engine speed range of 980-1000 RPM. When stationary, lightly pressing the accelerator pedal so that the engine speed reaches around 1000 RPM eliminated the noise.
They're supposed to tighten the belt again, or they might need to replace the tensioner pulley.

Okay, I'm not saying the car now has a noticeably more powerful engine, no, it just pulls smoothly through the RPM range, and in my opinion, it's a bit better at the lower end, and overall, it feels more harmonious.