Break-in period with/without tuning?

Hello, what's better for a new car? One person says this, another says that...
I'll soon be getting my new A3 2.0 TDI, and I have a tuning box from KW-Systems. Is it better to break in the engine first without the tuning box, or is it okay to use it right away?

Best regards,

In my humble opinion, do not modify it; let it break in naturally.

One should gradually increase the load.

CU Gremlin.

Well, at the beginning, I wouldn't necessarily go full throttle with the engine, and I don't mean that literally, but maybe it would be better if the engine was 'exposed' to the modified fuel map from the start?

Best regards,

I completely agree with Gremlin on that.

Ideally, a motor should be broken in gently, within a range where your tuning modification isn't really necessary yet. "So, I would definitely only install the box after the engine has been properly broken in."

Well, at the beginning, I wouldn't necessarily go full throttle with the engine, and I don't mean that, but maybe it would be better if the engine was 'confronted' with the modified fuel map from the very beginning?

Regards

That's kind of like when you finally get that engine running smoothly again.

Whether I use the box and give 50% gas, or I don't use the box and give 75%, the result is (almost) the same.

CU Gremlin.

So, Weterauer once told me that it's better to break in the car with a chip/tuning box, because the engine can better adapt (break in) to the increased power.
As I said, you don't have to go full throttle if you don't want to.
Personally, I would drive it without the chip initially, and then later adjust the engine characteristics with the chip to better suit my needs.

Tagessuppe wrote:

So, Weterauer once told me that it's better to break in the car with a chip/box, because the engine can better adapt (break in) to the power.

Ah yes... the engine manufacturer says "do not demand the normal power output (continuously) during the break-in period."

And then a tuner comes along and says, "Right from the start, have it tuned to produce more power than the factory specifications," but of course, no modifications are made to the engine hardware, right??

Just such a statement creates the impression in me that the tuner is only concerned with revenue: and the sooner, the better .

I would always break in an engine without any performance-enhancing modifications, as the stress on all the bearings is significantly lower.

Sorry, but with today's manufacturing tolerances and long-life oil changes up to 50,000 km, I personally find the whole 'break-in period' thing to be unnecessary!

My Audi was a demo car that had 18,000 km registered to the dealership. I doubt it ever underwent a proper break-in period. And it has now easily reached 232,000 km without any problems!

Regards,

Manuel.

Well, I certainly won't be doing that 'break-in' procedure that some people do. That whole idea of not exceeding 3000 RPM and not using too much throttle, I think that's nonsense. I'll be pushing it a bit from the start to ensure it runs well later, but I won't be overdoing it.

Best regards,

Hi Wacken,
Isn't that topic irrelevant to you, since you won't be driving the car for more than a year?
Am I mistaken?

Sure, here's the translation:

'MFG' is an abbreviation for 'Mit freundlichen Grüßen,' which translates to 'Sincerely' or 'Best regards' in English.

Even though I don't usually drive my cars for very long, I still take good care of them. Some people might not care, but I still treat my cars with respect. Besides, the used car market isn't great these days, so maybe I'll drive one for a longer period. I also don't want to end up with a 'beat-up' car when buying used.

Best regards,

You are indeed right.
Are you a good Audi driver ?

Best regards,

Well, I definitely don't do the direct 'break-in' method that some people do. The idea of, 'don't go over 3000 RPM and don't use too much throttle,' I think is nonsense. I'll push it a bit from the beginning, so it will run better later, but I won't overdo it.

Regards

Hi,

Although I dislike it, I suppose I have to agree with the statement.

'As I drive a lot, I get a new car approximately every 2.5 years (from the leasing company). The first car (a G3 with an unknown engine code of 66 kW) was delivered to me with about 890 km on the odometer. It was transported from Amberg to Northern Germany (with an average speed of approximately 125 km/h). The car runs really well and easily reaches speeds over 190 km/h (with a maximum of 175 km/h according to the registration document), the driver who transported it said.' He relentlessly drove the new car north.
It didn't hurt him. On the contrary, it ran like a charm until the very end and didn't consume any significant amount of oil.

The car I am currently driving (see below) was, at my request, driven or transported with a maximum speed of 130 km/h. According to the records, the average speed was... MFA at 97 km/h.
And the result is: even today, with 107,000 km on the odometer, my car performs worse than the same models owned by my colleagues, which were probably taken care of from the beginning. They usually simply leave me behind on the highway, and they also have a better suspension. So, no speedometer deviation.

It could happen like that. I'll have the next vehicle (probably in April/May) shipped again without any brakes. Let's see what it brings...

Goodbye.

Eike.

eike wrote:

It's running really well and it's doing over 190 (max 175 according to the documents), the driver said. He relentlessly drove the new car north. It didn't hurt him. On the contrary, it ran like a charm until the very end and didn't consume any significant amount of oil. The car I am currently driving (see below) was, at my request, driven or transported with a maximum speed of 130 km/h. According to the records, the average speed was... MFA at 97 km/h. And the result is: even today, with 107,000 km on the odometer, my car performs worse than the same models owned by my colleagues, which were probably taken care of from the beginning. They usually simply leave me behind on the highway, and they also have a better suspension. So, no speedometer deviation.

Hi Eike,

an experience that, according to the currently accepted arguments for entry requirements, should no longer exist...

My Polo has about 380 kilometers on the odometer, and I've mostly driven it gently so far.
But I think I'm starting to wind down the grace period now, and in the next few days, for example, I'll be doing the first DZR tests.

Hi,
@Eike: You probably just had bad luck within the series of draws. In our fleet, cars that were ordered at the same time sometimes have different delivery dates.
If I ever decide to buy a brand new car, I will definitely pick it up myself. Break it in the old-fashioned way: first, drive carefully, then let it rev higher only when going downhill, and finally, only then drive "normally."