1.4 TDI AMF: No Power Above 3800 RPM?

Sure, here is the translation of the text from German to English:

'Given the following circumstances:'
1.4 TDI AMF engine in an Audi A2 manufactured in May 2001.
LMM, almost new.
Timing belt recently replaced by Bosch.
Weatherauer Chip Tuning.

Since the timing belt was replaced, the engine loses power at 3800 RPM. It still revs up, but with very little power.

After that, I used VAG-COM to read out some diagnostic data.
Air mass at idle and at 3000 RPM is within normal limits.

Boost pressure at 3000 rpm is within the normal range.

Fuel injection amount at 3000 RPM and full throttle (LOAD=100%):
Driver request: 55.5
Torque limit: 69.5.
Soot limit: 63.1.
Starting from 2600, the driver's preference of 64.8 will be withdrawn.

Injection timing at 3000:
Start of funding from OT: -16.7 (Target: 15-22).
Duration of promotion: 23.5 (Target: 17-24).

Injection timing at idle:
Start of funding from OT: -4.3 (Target: 3-9).
Duration of funding: 5.6 (Target: 4-7).
Idle: 0.6 cf ???

Am I mistaken, or is the ZR installed incorrectly?

Best regards and thanks.
Thomas.

A2TDI wrote:

Timing belt freshly replaced by Bosch. Bitte gib mir den deutschen Text, den du übersetzt haben möchtest. Since the timing belt was replaced, the engine loses power at 3800 RPM. It still revs up, but with very little power. Bitte gib mir den deutschen Text, den du übersetzt haben möchtest. Am I mistaken, or is the ZR incorrectly placed?

The suspicion is obvious.
Examination: see the technical article on adjusting the timing chain camshaft .

Thank you, but I don't have a chance to get access to the OT (optical telescope) aperture.
I need to remove two oil lines, the fuel pump, and a coolant hose.

I tried using a dental mirror, but it's completely dark inside the cavity. And there's no more room for an LED flashlight.

Is there another way for me to access occupational therapy services?

Regards,
Thomas.

A2TDI wrote:

Is there another way for me to access OT?

1. using the torque wrench, as is normally used when replacing the timing belt.

2. The Russian method:
"Remove the spark plugs, insert a piece of appropriately bent doorbell wire into the cylinder (in a 3-cylinder engine = ?), letting it hang down to the piston, and then turn the engine over so that the piston moves upwards."
In the watch movement area, bend the wire so that it acts as a long pointer inside the candle hole, and rotate the motor so that the end of the wire is at its lowest point on the outside.
However, it is a relatively inaccurate method because the piston in the top dead center position is practically not moved at all, even though the crankshaft is rotating.

I chose the Russian method . As a probe, I used a bare welding electrode.

Image 1:
The red arrow indicates the direction of rotation, and I only rotated in that direction.
The yellow circle highlights a small section of the metal nose.
This image shows the position where the piston has reached top dead center (TDC). No forward movement of the rod is visible anymore.

Image 2:
Show the position where the piston is visible again as it moves downwards.
In image 1, I have marked the position of the metal nose with masking tape.

Image 3:
The image shows the front (NW) wheel. Masking tape marks the position of the metal tab and indicates when the top dead center of the piston is reached.

Is the OT point on the flywheel located at the midpoint between reaching and leaving the OT position, or is it at the point of reaching the OT position?

I have tried the positions multiple times and always gotten the same results.

Regards,
Thomas.

A2TDI wrote:

Is the point OT on the flywheel located at the midpoint between reaching and leaving the OT position, or is it at the point of reaching the OT position?

The OT mark indicates that the piston is at Top Dead Center, which is between the positions where the piston "remains stationary" and "begins to move downwards."

While I don't quite understand your markings, it's right in the middle between...
"Piston stops" and "piston starts moving downwards" should allow the NW (presumably a control or valve) to be switched off.

If that is the case, then the N/W setting is incorrect, or the Z-axis is not properly adjusted - subject to measurement errors in your O.T. determination!

I have tested both of the locations I identified multiple times and obtained the same results each time.

The optimal position is likely somewhere in between, so the ZR (presumably a specific component or setting) can probably be ruled out.

Does anyone have any other ideas for how to deal with the engine running at 3800 RPM?

Regards,
Thomas.

A2TDI wrote:

The positioning of the stake is approximately in between those two points, so the ZR can likely be ruled out. Does anyone have another idea for "de-tuning" at 3800 RPM?

Yes: A too late northwest (NW) alignment, positioned less than one tooth below the grid.

A change of just 5° KW can result in noticeable differences in the performance characteristics (in the 4-cylinder engine), but I don't know any reason why the 3-cylinder engine should be less susceptible or immune to these effects.
And I fear that your OT (off-the-road) setting is not accurate enough to reliably detect a misalignment of 5 degrees , which could be problematic .

I'm going to go to Bosch. They should take another look at it and re-examine the issue.

Then I can at least rule that out with some certainty.

Regards,
Thomas.

A2TDI wrote:

I'm going to go to Bosch. They should take another look at it. Then I can at least safely rule that out.

No, you can't.
Because then, presumably, fewer "lazy-turning" printers would come out of production (we've had some here with incorrectly adjusted nozzle widths), and their motors would likely be adjusted using the same tools as those used by Bosch technicians.

Hi!
What does field 4 of display group 4 say? (Specifically, what is the value of the synchronization angle?)


Dirk.

Hi!
What does field 4 of display group 4 say? (Specifically, what is the value of the synchronization angle?)


Dirk.

Synchronization angle at idle and also at full throttle indicates:
0.6 cf

Whatever that may mean. That's why I put three question marks above.

Regards,
Thomas.

I wanted to provide an update, as the problem has now been resolved. The boot on the tripod joint on the driver's side had torn. This caused it to dry out and eventually break down.
Since the new driveshaft was installed, it's been spinning freely again. Apparently, the friction was so high that the power output was insufficient.

Thank you everyone!

Regards,
Thomas.

A2TDI wrote:

The following conditions apply: 1.4 TDI AMF engine in an Audi A2 manufactured in May 2001. LMM, almost new. Timing belt recently replaced by Bosch. Weatherauer Chip Tuning. Since the timing belt was replaced, the engine loses power at 3800 RPM. It still revs up, but with very little power. After that, I used VAG-COM to read out some diagnostic data. Air mass at idle and at 3000 RPM is within normal limits. Boost pressure at 3000 rpm is within the normal range. Fuel injection amount at 3000 RPM and full throttle (LOAD=100%): Driver request: 55.5 Torque limit: 69.5. Soot limit: 63.1. Starting from 2600, the driver's preference of 64.8 will be withdrawn. Injection timing at 3000: Start of funding from OT: -16.7 (Target: 15-22). Duration of promotion: 23.5 (Target: 17-24). Injection timing at idle: Start of funding from OT: -4.3 (Target: 3-9). Duration of funding: 5.6 (Target: 4-7). Idle: 0.6 cf ??? Am I mistaken, or is the ZR installed incorrectly? Best regards and thanks. Thomas

It makes me suspicious why the desired driving style is set to such a "small" value (it's the smallest of the three limits). Are you sure that this isn't related to the issue?

I'm now on my second AMF engine (and I've replaced the timing belt on both), and in neither of them was there a significant increase in power above 3800 RPM compared to lower RPMs. At least, the 4-cylinder engines (e.g., the 100 HP engine in the Polo 9N) rev much more freely.

I always thought it was supposed to be like that. I have enough power in the lower body, so I don't need it in the upper body.

Regards,

Olaf.

A2TDI wrote:

I would like to report again, as the problem has been resolved. The boot on the tripod joint on the driver's side was torn. This caused it to dry out and eventually break down. Since the new driveshaft was installed, it's been spinning out again. Apparently, the friction was so high that the power wasn't sufficient anymore. Thank you everyone! Regards, Thomas

Hello, well, it's probably hard to believe, but if that's the case. So, what do those mysterious values look like on the VAG-Com now? Are they okay? Was only the driveshaft replaced?