Nozzle Installation & Removal - Claw Game

Hi.

Before I disassemble my engine (and potentially break it), I have one more question:

What is the clearance of the gripping claws on the Düsen (specifically for the 1Z model)?

I just read that even a 2-degree angle can cause problems (which is 0.7 mm with an assumed thickness of 2 cm).

Thank you.
m;

Hi Martin,


There's a bit of play there. But you can fix it with a flashlight and...
It's quite recognizable to a trained eye. My VW service technician said...
'They go into the workshop and that's that' - I doubt that's how it works.
ensuring they fit perfectly within the housing.

I've always used either a water pump pliers or a 16mm wrench to remove the nozzles.
precisely aligned - and then slowly tighten the locking nut with the...
The torque is properly tightened - this works quite well, except for the NHG (presumably a specific component or system).

It should work out - you'll see.

Regards,
arne

Thank you, Arne.

The reason for the overly cautious questions is the ASV (Arbeitsunfähigkeitsbescheinigung - certificate of incapacity for work) that the colleague is receiving today .

I immediately told him that I wanted to test drive his cars.

Last week, he was all for it ("absolutely"), but yesterday, he started to get cold feet...

m;

Hello dieselmartin:

I've performed this nozzle replacement procedure several times now. You can try holding the nozzles in place with a 15mm wrench to prevent them from twisting when tightening the fitting nuts. This works relatively well, except for the NBF (presumably a specific component).
"Last time, I specifically cut some thin strips of sheet metal in various thicknesses (0.2mm and 0.3mm). I then inserted these strips between the clamping jaw and the keying surface of the nozzle holder to center it. After tightening the lines, I removed the metal strips. This allowed me to precisely center the NBF. I believe there was a gap of about 0.5mm to 0.8mm on each side (I'm sorry, I no longer know the exact measurement)."

ASV nozzles will definitely do good for your engine. You will see that any tendency to jerkiness will decrease. However, your pump should be adjusted as "early" as possible, because the ASV nozzles only open at 220 bar.

Good luck!

Regards,
Alex.

I don't understand the pump right now.

Because, according to the 000-Basics guidelines, it falls EXACTLY on the centerline.

However, in normal idle conditions, the timing is 4 degrees too advanced.

See my other thread for more information.
/viewtopic.php?t=5423

It fits better when it's in operation/being used.

m;

@diselmartin:

It's not a major issue if the pump is slightly too advanced at low load and idle. This could be due to cold fuel, which can cause the internal pressure of the pump to be slightly too high due to its high viscosity. In this range, the injection timing control system hardly engages because the mass flow through the pump housing is very low. However, the control system should start to function with a slightly higher engine speed.
Perhaps the vane pump in your VP37 has a particularly good volumetric efficiency. This could also explain the slightly premature injection start when the engine is idling.

If your pump is currently very close to the zero line, then after the conversion to ASV nozzles, it will be very close to the late timing line, meaning it will be just within the tolerance range.

Regards,
Alex.

Hello,

"Don't exaggerate when it comes to centering the nozzles. If it were of utmost importance, the tolerance for insertion would have been tighter. It's also normal for some exhaust gases to leak initially, which you can see if you put some rust remover in the holes. The crevices will eventually become clogged with soot. Centering the nozzles in the direction of the crankshaft also doesn't achieve much, as the nozzles also tilt perpendicular to the direction of the crankshaft."

Best regards,
Albrecht.