Golf Cabrio TDI: Clutch Problems & Repair

Hello, I'm having a problem with my Golf Cabrio TDI (110 hp, chipped, AFN engine, 50,000 km).
'The clutch isn't disengaging properly sometimes. When I press the clutch pedal while driving, the engine RPM doesn't drop. Usually, pressing the clutch pedal again fixes the issue. This problem occurs intermittently. I feel like the longer I drive, the more likely it is to happen.'

Perhaps someone can give me a tip as to what might be causing this?
After 50,000 km, the clutch shouldn't be broken yet, right?

Hello!

It sounds like there's air in the hydraulic clutch actuation system. It's best to bleed the system to see if that resolves the issue.
"Most likely, the master cylinder on the transmission flange is leaking, allowing air to enter the system. This phenomenon mainly occurs at higher engine temperatures (sustained full throttle on the highway). I once had this problem with my A3. It was hardly reproducible, only happening after long periods of full throttle on the highway. Then, the clutch pedal essentially collapsed, and you could only disengage the clutch by forcefully pumping the pedal."

Regards,
Alex.

Is it possible to reseal the master cylinder on the transmission, or does it need to be completely replaced? And how much does such a part cost?

Could it also be the release bearing? Sometimes, when I shift from 3rd to 2nd gear while exiting the highway, the clutch also makes a squealing noise.
I haven't had the car for very long, and something is already broken, which is annoying.
I would be grateful for any advice.

golfcabriotdii wrote:

Is it possible to reseal the distributor shaft on the transmission in any way, or does it have to be completely replaced? What is the cost of such a part?

Correction: The slave cylinder is located at the transmission, while the master cylinder is located at the pedal.

Because one is releasing pressure from the pedal, and the other is taking it up.

Does your pedal stay down when the error occurs, or does it return to its original position }?
Because if it stays down, it's usually the master cylinder at the pedal.

No, the pedal moves up normally.
Sometimes, the gear doesn't shift properly when I press the pedal.

Hello.

The pedal will always return to its original position because there's a spring to retract it (it's attached directly to the pedal, above the pushrod from the actuator cylinder). Otherwise, the automatic adjustment wouldn't work.
If the master or slave cylinders are leaking, the brake fluid level should decrease rapidly. Have you noticed that?

Best regards,
Jan.

Okay, you're right, I'll check the brake fluid level.
I'm also going to bleed the clutch.
I just need to loosen the vent screw for that.
Okay, so you engage the clutch, release the clutch pedal, and then gently pump the clutch pedal a few times, right?

I mean the one who takes, of course.

Hello,

How about a 'tired' pedal that doesn't fully return to the top, except when you quickly depress it? The clutch also feels 'digital,' and I'm asking because the Audi was in the workshop about 15,000 km ago (still with the previous owner) for this issue, and they replaced the slave cylinder and bled the system. The clutch was checked and left in place. I have no idea if it's still the original clutch, but that's what the previous owner told me. In the last 15,000 km, it's gotten a bit worse. What should I do now? I don't want to replace the clutch if it might be something else . The clutch disengages perfectly and doesn't slip (with a chip).
The car is a Ibiza model with an AFN engine and 170,000 kilometers on the odometer.


Sure, here is the translation of the text from German to English:

'MFG Dr.B' translates to 'Best regards, Dr.B' or 'Sincerely, Dr.B'.

golfcabriotdii wrote:

I'm also going to bleed the clutch. I just need to loosen the vent screw for that. am, release the clutch lever and gently pump the clutch pedal a bit, right?

No, it will definitely be drawing in air. The best way is to pressurize it by attaching something to the brake fluid reservoir. You can easily make something yourself using an old lid and a tire valve.
Use the search function!!!

I'd like to add to this discussion because I'm experiencing the exact same problem.
My Golf 4 Variant TDI, manufactured in 2000 with an ALH engine, also doesn't disconnect when I press the pedal. (840,000 km, everything original).
The problem, however, is:
Mine does it only when shifting from 2nd to 3rd gear, and it doesn't matter if the engine is warm or cold. It also happens completely randomly, sometimes once a week, then not again for 3 weeks, or sometimes twice a week.
The clutch has already been bled, and it's not exhibiting any other unusual behavior.
(plucking, slipping, etc.)
Therefore, I can safely rule out air.
Does anyone have a logical explanation?