KGE Installation Location at AKN

Hello, my AKN (presumably an engine or vehicle) is currently leaking oil from the oil filter housing and the valve cover. There's no noticeable increase in oil consumption, but there are oil stains on my garage floor. Also, it's leaking from the oil filler cap.

Can anyone confirm the location of the sensor, specifically next to the oil filter housing or directly below the fuel injection pump?

Hello!

If I'm not mistaken, she should be located in the same place as she was at the AFB.
Then it would be located somewhere between the oil filter housing and the turbocharger (which needs to be removed to access the coolant expansion tank).
Unfortunately, I'm experiencing the exact same problem, and I'll probably have to have it fixed over the next few days.
Question: Have you ever had the crankcase pressure measured?

Regards,

DENNIS.

Hello,

I also believe that the AKN and AFB must be the same in this regard. The filter is located between the turbocharger and the fuel injection pump, almost in the middle. To access it, you have to remove the turbocharger and disconnect some fuel lines. Unfortunately, I had it done at the workshop due to time constraints. They even had to redo it because they couldn't get the filter to seal properly! Since oil was leaking from everywhere on my engine, I would have had to invest a lot of time! However, it's worth doing it yourself in terms of cost.
The oil pressure should not exceed 20 mbar!

Best, Manuel.

Sorry, it's not oil pressure, but crankcase pressure!

Best, Manuel.

Hello, I haven't measured the crankcase pressure. With open oil filler caps, the pressure is noticeably escaping.

I would rather not remove the charger. My friend suggests cleaning the KGE (presumably a component).
'When I look at the KGE (presumably a piece of equipment) from above, I can see a cover secured with two Torx screws. Would it be sufficient to simply remove this cover? To do so, only the injection lines would need to be disconnected.'

Thank you, René.

Hello,

20 mbar is actually already too much! The limit is 5 mbar. In my case, 10 mbar were measured.
The oil is coming from, at a minimum, the valve cover gasket, the seals in the valve cover near the injectors, and the cover of the oil filter housing. I have no idea if there are any other leaks. When I shine a light between the cylinder banks, there's a real puddle of oil in there. I assume it's leaking in other places as well.
I'm already dreading starting the process of replacing parts and trying to seal it, only to end up not being able to get it dry again.

How many kilometers had yours driven before they started leaking?

Regards,

DENNIS.

Hello Dennis,

Yes, 20 mbar is the maximum limit, as I was told by VW.
I can reassure you that once the crankcase pressure is back to normal, oil will almost certainly stop leaking from most places. The danger is that if the pressure remains too high for too long, the oil seals will fail, or the oil pan and oil pan gasket will leak, and fixing that is quite a hassle. You don't need to replace the camshaft covers; there's no point. For the VW AFB engine, they are only available as complete units for EUR 64 each! If the pressure is correct, they will also be dry again.

Best, Manuel.

Hello René_S.

I also have an AKN. According to the repair manual, the maximum permissible pressure for the KWG system is 5 mmbar.

How can this KWG pressure be measured using simple methods?

Using a piece of tubing, approximately 4 meters long, from a level (which can be purchased at any hardware store), and a nozzle attachment from a standard silicone cartridge.
Approximately 1 meter of water should be poured into the approximately 4-meter-long transparent tube.

It is important that the measurement is taken with the engine at its operating temperature. Therefore, allow the engine to warm up fully before taking the measurement.

The dipstick is removed from the engine while it is running and warm, and a threaded nozzle is inserted into the dipstick tube in its place.

Now, bring one end of the transparent tube close to the threaded nozzle, but do not insert it yet (it should not apply any pressure to the transparent tube, and therefore to the water column).

In this position, it is important to ensure that the hose is held in such a way that the column of water remains precisely vertical with respect to the open end of the hose.

A second person can be very helpful in this situation.

Using a felt-tip pen, mark the surface of the water column at the open end.

Then, insert the end of the hose into the threaded nozzle connected to the oil dipstick tube. It is important that the water level does not deviate from the mark due to the movement of the hose alone, otherwise the measurement result will be incorrect.

After the hose has been inserted into the threaded nozzle, a second mark is made on the tube using a felt-tip pen, indicating the current water level.

Measure the difference between the two markings, where 1 cm corresponds exactly to 1 millibar.

I measured a pressure of approximately 6.5 mmbar on my engine.

Following that, I replaced the crankcase ventilation filter and took measurements again. This time, the crankcase ventilation pressure was almost 0 mmbar.

To replace the filter, I had to remove all the fuel injection lines and also the EGR valve. I didn't need to remove the turbocharger in the process. However, I must point out that it's a tricky job to remove the two nuts of the EGR valve that are located towards the exhaust. It is recommended to replace the seals and nuts of the EGR valve with new ones.

Furthermore, it is important to know that the fuel line to the injection pump on the AKN engine is extremely sensitive and must be bled without a corresponding vacuum pump, following the instructions in the repair manual. Improper procedures can cause the battery to drain due to frequent unsuccessful start attempts.

I find it outrageous that Audi designs the engine in such a way that valve cover leaks occur in over 50% of V6 TDI models.

They should definitely initiate a recall for this. The lids cost around €140 together, and they're also a pain to install (it just takes a lot of time, about 3 hours).

The vehicles in question all have mileage well below 100,000 kilometers.

Hello René_S.

Furthermore, it is important to know that the fuel line to the injection pump for the AKN engine is extremely sensitive and must be bled without a corresponding vacuum pump, following the instructions in the repair manual. Improper procedures can cause the battery to drain due to the frequent unsuccessful start attempts.

Alternatively, simply loosen the cap nuts on each nozzle individually and, for each line, crank the wrench for about 3-5 seconds until diesel fuel starts to flow. Then, tighten the nut again and proceed to the next line until all six are bled.

P.S. Almost any workshop will measure the pressure in your central heating system for a small fee (around 5 euros).

Hello,

I would also say that the effort involved in getting the measurement isn't worth it. Driving to the workshop, getting the measurement, and driving away doesn't take any less time than driving to the hardware store. And they definitely offer that service for free there.

Regarding the camshaft cover: They rarely need to be replaced. Most often, the problem is the crankcase pressure. If the pressure is gone, no more oil will leak out from there.

More likely, the filter would need to be replaced as part of a recall action .
Let's think about the many liters of oil that disappear into the ground .

Best, Manuel.

Hello,

I would also say that the effort involved in getting the measurement isn't worth it. Driving to the workshop, getting the measurement, and driving away takes about the same amount of time as driving to the hardware store, where they would definitely do it for free.

Best regards, Manuel

Hello Manuel,

'Free' and 'immediately' are foreign words at my workshop .
I was there, and I was immediately sent away with the words 'everyone is at the table' and 'we don't have time for that today.' I had to specifically make an appointment for it. They measured the car without warming it up. It had only driven the 3km from my apartment to the workshop, and it hadn't even reached 60°, let alone the 80°. Unfortunately, I only read much too late that the car had to be at 80° .
And they wanted another 25 euros for that!
I might go back again and have the measurement repeated with a warm engine. But the fact that the pressure was at least slightly too high was already indicated in the first measurement (10 mbar).

DENNIS

@all

Thank you for the answers.

@TAW

Following that, I replaced the crankcase ventilation filter and took measurements again. This time, the crankcase ventilation pressure was almost 0 mmbar. }

Is the filter located directly under the lid?

Hello Rene_S,

Under the cover you mentioned (two Torx screws, steel with gold/yellow zinc plating), there is a plastic housing. From the outside, a hose with a clamp is attached, and inside, there is a permeable cylinder covered by a type of synthetic textile fabric that is permanently bonded to the plastic housing (the overlap was simply heated until the plastic of the housing and the textile fabric melted together).

Hello,

That's just outrageous. I wonder why I would buy a car for 30,000 euros from a dealer if they don't even consider it necessary to provide customer service. I might as well buy the car online!
I would say, find yourself another 'friendly' person!

However, I believe that the result will not change compared to 60°C.


Best, Manuel.