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Oil Filter Housing Gasket Replacement

 
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togu
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Post04-05-2004, 13:06    Subject: Oil Filter Housing Gasket Replacement Quote

Hello.

My engine (G III variant, manufactured in 1996, engine code: 1Z) is leaking oil from the oil filter housing. I want to replace the gasket, but I couldn't find a tightening torque specification for the three screws that connect the filter housing to the engine block in any of my DIY resources. Or should I just tighten them 'snug'?
Is there anything else I should be aware of or pay special attention to? All I need to do is remove the filter, then the oil cooler, and finally the bracket itself. Unfortunately, it's difficult to access all the screws on the filter housing. The hoses on the 'oil cooler' can remain connected.
Then I saw that there's another valve there too (it was a valve on the 110 HP version, but it's called something different on the 90 HP version). Should this part be replaced as well? This mysterious part only costs around 7 euros.

Thank you in advance for your responses.

Best regards,
togu


Translated on 04-08-2026, 8:46.
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mersente
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Post07-05-2004, 23:40    Subject: Oil Filter Housing Gasket Replacement Quote

Hello, you just need to tighten the screws. Are you sure it's only the gasket? I've seen before that sometimes the flange itself has a crack.


Translated on 04-08-2026, 8:48.
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donalexo
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Post08-05-2004, 18:52    Subject: Oil Filter Housing Gasket Replacement Quote

For the 038 engines (AGR, ALH, AHF, ASV), the flange should be tightened to 15 Nm plus an additional 90 degrees.
I think the torque specifications for the 028 engines should be comparable. If anyone knows better, please correct me.

Regards,
Alex.
AUDI A3 1.9 TDI, EZ 12/96, ursprüglich MKB AGR, umgebaut zum AHF mit GT1749V-Lader, verkauft mit 250tkm

Golf 4 1.9 TDI, EZ 1/98, MKB ALH, jetzt auch mit GT1749V-Lader, verkauft mit 300tkm

Touran 1.9 TDI, EZ 09/2004

Audi A4 Avant 2.0 TDI, EZ 03/2010


Translated on 04-08-2026, 8:48.
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kossmann
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Post06-11-2007, 13:55    Subject: Oil Filter Housing Gasket Replacement Quote

togu wrote:
Then I saw that there's another valve there too?! (on the 110HP version, it was a valve, but on the 90HP version, that part has a different name). Should you replace it? The infamous part only costs around 7 euros.


"Is there anyone here who knows the answer to this question? I need to replace my oil filter housing (on a 1Z engine) now because the threads on the oil pressure sensor are crumbling. Is it enough to just use the flange and new seals, or do I also need to replace the valve?"

Otherwise, the procedure would be as follows, right?

Drain the oil.
Remove the oil filter.
Turn the nut between the oil filter and the oil cooler.
Disconnect the oil line leading to the turbocharger (or wherever it's going).
Removing the oil cooler (what/how much will leak out?).
Remove the flange.
Install a new flange with new gaskets.
Reinstall the components (radiator, thermostat housing, filter, oil line), possibly using new gaskets.

Can this be easily done yourself, or should it be left to a workshop? Possibly even just because of the mess that leaking oil can cause (I have a drain pan for normal oil changes).


Translated on 04-08-2026, 8:51.
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