Wenn eine Gelenkwelle nicht aus dem Radlager geht, kann dies verschiedene Ursachen haben. Hier sind einige mögliche Gründe und was Sie tun können: **Mögliche Ursachen:** * **Verschmutzung:** Schmutz, Dreck, Wasser oder andere Ablagerungen können die Gelenkwelle oder das Radlager blockieren. * **Korrosion:** Rost oder Korrosion können die Teile miteinander verbinden und die Bewegung verhindern. * **Abgenutzte oder beschädigte Teile:** Das Radlager oder die Gelenkwelle selbst könnten beschädigt oder abgenutzt sein, was die Bewegung erschwert. * **Falsche Montage:** Die Gelenkwelle wurde möglicherweise nicht korrekt in das Radlager eingesetzt. * **Lockere Schrauben:** Schrauben, die die Gelenkwelle oder das Radlager fixieren, könnten locker sein. * **Defektes Lager:** Das Radlager selbst könnte defekt sein und nicht mehr richtig funktionieren. **Was Sie tun können:** 1. **Visuelle Inspektion:** Untersuchen Sie die Gelenkwelle und das Radlager sorgfältig auf offensichtliche Schäden, Verschmutzungen, Korrosion

Hallo!

Ja, es gibt ein paar Tricks, um die Gelenkwelle ohne speziellen Ausdrücker aus dem Radlager zu entfernen. Hier sind ein paar Tipps, die dir helfen könnten:

**1. Rost lösen:**

* **WD-40 oder Rostlöser:** Sprühe WD-40 oder einen Rostlöser direkt auf die Schraubenköpfe und lasse es ein paar Minuten einwirken. Das kann helfen, festgefrorene Schrauben zu lösen.
* **Schraubendreher mit Rostlöser:** Tauche einen Schraubendreher in Rostlöser und versuche, die Schraubenköpfe zu lösen.

**2. Druck erzeugen:**

* **Breite Schraubendreher:** Manchmal hilft es, einen etwas breiteren Schraubendreher zu verwenden, um mehr Kontaktfläche zu erzeugen und den Schraubenkopf besser zu greifen.
* **Schlag:** Wenn die Schraube sehr fest sitzt, kannst du versuchen, mit einem Hammer leicht auf den Schraubendreher zu schlagen, um zusätzlichen Druck zu erzeugen. Sei dabei vorsichtig, um den Schraubenkopf nicht zu beschädigen.

**3. Gelenkwelle 'auspressen':**

* **Breche die Schraube:** Wenn alles andere fehlschlägt, kannst du versuchen, die Schraube vorsichtig zu brechen. Verwende dafür einen Schraubenschlüssel oder einen Schraubenschlüssel, der auf die Schraube aufgelegt wird. Achte darauf, die Gelenkwelle nicht zu beschädigen.
* **Auspressen mit einem Schraubendreher:** Wenn die Schraube gebrochen ist, kannst du versuchen, die Gelenkwelle mit einem breiten Schraubendreher oder einem Schraubenzieher aus dem Radlager herauszudrücken.

**4. Werk

Lots of rust remover and a large hammer. But, if you don't hit it precisely, you'll distort the wave.

Insert the Old Joint Shaft Screw several turns.
and a good hammer!
Then go all out without regard for losses

Possibly, even with the 9N, the gear wave is coupled to the axle to prevent noise.
If that's the case, there is a remover for it. Maybe it's also possible with a hammer.

Hi,

If the bearing is so tight, you might as well buy a new one... it's probably going to come out along with the inner ring, and the bearing seal will also be damaged.

Hello, Rainer

The best way is to remove the brake disc, spray the axle with a rust remover, and use a puller.
You can clamp it securely behind the hub once the brake disc has been removed.

I always do that. With a hammer, you only break or damage something.

I'm bringing this old article back to light.
I'm having the same problem. I have a 2001 Fabia (with the same axle and wheel bearing). The axle sits extremely tight in the hub. I disassembled the outer axle bearing and then removed the entire wheel bearing housing. Then I thoroughly worked on everything with a 2kg hammer. And, nothing. The axle isn't moving at all.
I've never come across something like this before.

Does anyone have any suggestions for what I can still do?

/Jan

Quote:

Does anyone have any suggestions for what I can still do?

Yeah. You can borrow this remover from , or you can assemble the whole thing and then use a decent press to push it out. For inexperienced users, using a hammer carries the risk of damaging the wheel bearing and/or the joint.

The wheel bearing is the reason I'm having the operation. So, I don't care. I also had a stable puller on it, which resulted in me breaking its neck.

Hello

During a repair on a Golf III GTI, the pinion gear of the driveshaft also could not be pushed out of the wheel hub housing. After disassembly using a large pry bar, it was discovered that screw adhesive had been used.
God knows why

The ball joints are glued in, unfortunately this is the case with many newer vehicles.

zb. Audi A3, Audi A2, Lupo 3l, Lupo FSI, etc. also various. Volvo Models

But with a strong scraper, it should definitely work.

Only I must have used the wrong retaining screw in the assembly.
When I tried to remove the axle a few years later, I was completely unsuccessful.

Therefore, only use the provided materials, otherwise there may be {PROBLEMS}. Problems

Oh man, I was really lucky with my Seat Ibiza. It's the same platform as the 9N.
I was able to push the axle shaft out of the hub using hand strength. While the axle nut was very tight, the shaft came out easily.

I think that if it doesn't work with a large hammer and a lot of strength, then the only option left is a hydraulic press....

Hi, Alex

Use the punch to pre-drill and then use the 2 kg hammer to strike the extraction screw, which should result in a "click".
Without the press, the hammer should not be lighter than the axle.
A single, forceful blow of 5 kg is better than 5 blows with 1 kg! A third man should use a heavy hammer or a piece of railroad track to strike it from inside the case!

When dealing with the T4 trailing arm, even with a pre-stressed press of 15 tons, a gentle hammer blow on the axle arm, while simultaneously pressing the head inwards, was a miracle.
CRC RustFlash also!

Just now I realized that I hadn't responded to this.
So, I completely disassembled the wheel bearing housing along with the outer part of the CV joint, then carefully heated it with a gas torch and used a (finally 5kg) hammer to work on it while the CV joint nut was screwed on. And... nothing. The axle was stuck fast. Even with full body and force, the axle didn't move even a millimeter in the bearing. I've never experienced anything like this, and even my very experienced mechanic friend was speechless. Result: new wheel bearing housing, bearing, CV joint, ABS sensor, and CV joint end. As far as I remember, around €600
I still don't know why this part was so stuck. However, during the assembly, I noticed that a plastic ring on the back of the wheel bearing (gear side) was not installed, which is presumably intended to seal against dirt and water. Apparently, Mrs. "Kurkova" forgot to install it during the assembly in the factory. It's possible that's why the wave is stuck in the machine.

I'm currently experiencing the same problem: a 2003 Polo 9N with a 1.2 engine. I've already used a large professional removal tool and applied firm hammer blows with a 3kg hammer, but so far, no luck...

Hello, I just finished with it too, Golf 3.

Mother reattached securely, then sprayed with rust remover, inserted a thick metal spike and hammered it in with a hammer.
So, don't hesitate, and also hold the thorn with a large pair of pliers.
Then the mother started beating the dough again with the mixer, getting it perfectly smooth and repeating the process.

Then, at some point, it went inward, but the drive shaft had detached from the joint due to pulling and banging...

This is probably stuck on, because I only wanted to change the spring, I removed the drive shaft from the gearbox and then took the whole thing out.

Normally, you would remove the shock absorber from its mount in the wheel hub housing and save yourself the other hassle, but the rusty appearance of all the suspension components after 15 years and (26,000 km!!!) made me choose a different path, installing a new shock.