Lifting the vehicle

Hello everyone,

After I got frustrated again while changing my tires, I'd like to hear about your experiences with this (actually primitive) topic.

I assume that only a few people have one.
As for those of us who don't have a lift, we have to deal with jacks and wheel chocks all the time.

I'm always annoyed that (at least with VAG vehicles), the stable area of the sills is so small that you either need to use jacks or support stands, but not both, which makes the entire lifting of the vehicle difficult.

If you then try to reposition the jack on another point, you are guaranteed to damage the door sills, despite the use of wooden supports etc.

How do you solve this problem?

Greetings, Jürgen

Juergen wrote:

After I got frustrated again when changing my tires, I'd like to hear about your experiences with this (actually primitive) topic. How do you solve this problem?

Rear: Place the wheel chock in the center of the HA. At least with Golf, Ibiza 6K, and Polo 9N, the axle can handle it.

Front: Attach the jockey wheel to one of the rear axle body fixings on the Golf 3 or Ibiza 6K and pump it up so that both front wheels are free.
With the new steel-aluminum composite steering column in the Polo 9N, I'm not sure I can do this anymore -> front suspension points with a recessed piece of wood.

If you then try to reposition the jack on another point, you are guaranteed to damage the door sills, despite the use of wooden supports etc.

How do you solve this problem?


Hm, there are also these nice, hard rubber wedges for placing under things. Or, you can simply buy decent jack stands that have a rubber pad on the lifting platform.

btw/
Just use the VW luggage rack from the trunk, it has a fitting for the lip on the door sill.

btw2/
Attaching the HA (rear) wheel can sometimes lead to the situation where, with certain wheel and tire combinations, you can no longer remove the wheel from the wheel arch...

btw3/
For very deep vehicles, there are leveling pads that can be filled via a hose connection to the exhaust system, thereby lifting the vehicle on the entire sill.
Search for 'Ballon' or 'Wagenheber Air-Jack' at a well-known auction house.

Hmm, there are also some nice, hard rubber wedges that you can use to place under things. Or, you can simply buy decent jack stands that have a rubber pad on the lifting platform.


Making rubber mats
a) don't drive the car
b) the threshold is not stable
Despite the weakness of the Kanthol tree (50x50, 1400 long), it was possible to press the Golf 4's undercarriage with the workshop jack, even though it was (carefully!) lifted. Rubber pads would not have been effective in this situation.

Why don't you just use the VW jack stand from the trunk, it has a fitting for the lip on the door sill?

The standard jack is not even good enough to throw away.



Are there any experiences with the 'AIRJACK' (I believe it's sold under that name)?

Despite the weakness of the Kanthol tree (50x50, 1400 long), it was possible to press the Golf 4's undercarriage with the workshop jack, even though it was (carefully!) lifted. Rubber pads would not have been effective in this situation.


So, bei meinem Golf 4 hatte ich da nie Probleme, es scheint, dass VW spart, indem sie jetzt weniger Stahl verwenden oder Blei oder Gold in die Karosserie einbauen!

Hello,

I'm using a wooden disc with a diameter of about 30cm under a cheap scrap car jack; it works perfectly, but the unreliable jack is a real headache. Well, maybe there will be a new one for Christmas.
I already have plenty of underlayment blocks (wooden rolls, about 30cm in diameter, and a piece of anti-splinter board) to ensure a sporty and efficient wood-burning stove.

Hello, Rainer

Apparently, VW is now also saving on steel thickness or using gold or lead in the body!

Judging by the price, it must be gold!

@rainer

Where should you place the wooden support under the jack?

Juergen wrote:

Apparently, VW is now also saving on sheet metal or using gold or lead in the body! Quote: Judging by the price, it must be gold! @rainer Where do you place the wooden support under the jack?

Rear: Notch and/or Rear Suspension.
Front: The "round knob" and the fold.

So far, I've only bent the crease on my A3 once, that was with the jack on 'unsuitable' ground. Since then, I haven't used that thing anymore.

Hello, Rainer

Juergen wrote:

Despite the weakness of a 50x50 cm long 1400 cm long beam, it was possible to indent the Golf 4's sill with a car lift, even when

I can't quite picture it. If the chassis is so soft, you can't lift the vehicle with anything at all, not even a lift. Or have I misunderstood you?
I only know about this problem from a G3 of a well-known person, but O2 definitely took action in that case.
"For my use, the beam is sufficiently stable, allowing me to easily position both the truck/yard crane and the support jack underneath." I use approximately 15 cm long hardwood blocks.

The problem is that on one side and the other, only about 15 cm of the sill at the bottom is reinforced.

For the lift platform, it's fine, but the space isn't big enough to simultaneously place both a garage jack and a jack stand.

So, I then placed the aforementioned sill directly next to the fender, positioned the jack approximately in the middle of the driver's door, and carefully raised it.

The sill was indented despite this large surface area.

Sorry, Jürgen, you should read the instructions for the operating points of the lifting jacks.

I don't know how much of my Golf 4 I have lifted with any kind of hydraulic jack (whether cheap or expensive), and if the correct point on the sills is hit, nothing bends. (Unless your car has had an improperly repaired side damage). And the car can also be lifted wonderfully with the factory-supplied jack.

The key points have already been discussed.