DIY Car Anti-Theft: A6 AFN Installation Guide.

Dear A6 specialists,

I would like to make my A6 more theft-proof.
I was thinking about a hidden switch that interrupts an electrical circuit.
However, the starter motor should still turn in order to simulate a start.
How about interrupting the mass airflow or positive pressure signal to the ESP's shut-off valve?
What could happen, what kind of damage could occur? What if you forget to do it yourself?
Maybe someone else has an even simpler and more brilliant idea.
Thank you for the detailed instructions.

Best regards,
Tobias

Hello Tobi,

Your A6 has an immobilizer .

Cutting the power supply wire to the shut-off valve is a common method used in aftermarket alarm systems. This will certainly delay a thief, but it may not completely prevent the theft. However, you will have to deal with the switch constantly.

You'd have to come up with something really unique and original, something that no one else knows about. However, discussing something like that in public forums doesn't really make sense.

Hello.
Wolfgang.

Simply disconnect relay 109. Sometimes, even technicians from VAG-approved workshops can't find the fault.

DocSnydor wrote:

Even some mechanics from VAG-approved workshops sometimes fail to find the error.

Well, this test criterion, in my opinion, has no real practical relevance regarding the impossibility of bypassing the lock by autoclaves .

A more accurate translation would be:
A technically skilled autoclave technician could certainly use their expertise to expose the shortcomings of many authorized repair shops, including their diagnostic software (often referred to by a specific name, like "Elsa," but with variations).

Well,
Normally, a thief wants to steal a car quickly and doesn't want to spend a lot of time searching.
Can anything happen to the espresso machine if someone fiddles with it while the shut-off valve is closed?
You don't really stand a chance with experts.

Best regards,
Tobias

Although beginners are likely to fail the IMMO2/3 exams... and if the IMMO exam isn't a problem, I don't think a deducted 109 points would be a significant obstacle... That's my opinion.

Before I start a new thread on this topic, I'll just use the existing one – even though it's old!

I've been thinking about the idea of a hidden switch for a while now. I don't have a VP-TDI, but a PD engine, but even here, there's definitely something that can be done. The location of such a switch shouldn't be discussed in the forum, but the question of which wire could be used for this purpose certainly can. Does anyone have an idea that would result in as few error messages as possible, in case you forget to use it yourself?

Hello RTDI-Tom,

I also installed a hidden switch in my car years ago. It's a VP-TDI model.
It works great, although it makes me a little nervous when the engine doesn't start right away.

I see it the same way. The surprise factor, when the car doesn't start right away, must be significant for a potential thief.

Try removing fuses one by one (e.g., the MSG fuse) and see which one prevents the car from starting.
GOOD!!! Connect the switch to the circuit -> DONE.

Over 10 years ago, I had an Opel Kadett (gasoline engine) where I simply pulled out the relay for the fuel pump. At that time, I lived and worked in Frankfurt (Oder). Four times within one year, someone broke into the car, and each time, thieves tried to steal the entire vehicle.

"Shall we walk, or shall we take a Kadett?"

Even with a tampered ignition switch, all the lights on the dashboard came on as usual, and the starter worked, so it was hardly noticeable. With the small amount of fuel remaining in the fuel injection system from the last time it was driven, the engine even started briefly. However, if the thief drove off immediately, they would stop just a few meters later. The engine would stall, and even with a full throttle, it wouldn't start again.

The first time, the car stalled again while still in the parking space and was left there with a dead battery. The three subsequent attempts each ended with the stubborn Kadett stuck in the middle of a one-way street. A pleasant side effect: This, of course, attracted quite a bit of attention, as the street was blocked. Usually, annoyed drivers would then honk their horns, waking up the neighborhood because the "carrot" was blocking their way. This at least ensured that it wouldn't go unnoticed for long.


"Kill switches" are, in my opinion, rarely comfortable to use and are often difficult to conceal. I had an idea that worked quite well in a later-model VW Jetta. I used a standard fog light switch to interrupt the power supply to the fuel pump relay. Hardly anyone pays attention to whether a car has fog lights or not – especially not a car thief!

The switch was in the fuse box, exactly where it should be! Visually, it wasn't noticeable at all, and the switching capacity is more than sufficient for the power requirements of a relay. Just like with the Kadett, all the lights came on, the starter worked, and the engine started briefly. A car thief doesn't have time for troubleshooting! Their plan only accounts for a car that starts and runs perfectly.

flightmaster wrote:

You might try simply removing fuses (e.g., MSG) and see which one prevents the car from starting. GOOD!!! Connect the switch to the circuit -> DONE.

Please do not remove any fuses, as this may cause errors in the speedometer.

That's exactly the problem, I've experienced it before! And then nothing worked anymore without the VAG-Com diagnostic tool...

Does anyone have an idea about which fuse to use so that the error memory is not filled?

So, regarding the speedometer, you shouldn't mess with it, because that's where the CAN gateway goes, and that can cause a whole bunch of errors.

Every mechanic should have a VAG-Com at hand, and for everyone else => just try it out.

Hi,

Shortly after the fall of the Berlin Wall, we did the following (the Passat has been in the press for so long, and that approach is less relevant today (see below), so it can be mentioned):

Install a bistable relay in the power supply line to the ignition system, so that the organ still works, but nothing else happens.

For activating the device, we used the horn, which we modified so that it no longer honks without ignition. Instead, activating it triggers the device. For deactivating it, which is the more interesting part, we installed a small power socket, similar to the ones found in Trabant cars (which didn't have a cigarette lighter, but only that other socket, I don't know the correct name for it). Back then, this was inconspicuous, as there were still many devices being used in the Eastern Bloc countries. Today, a second power socket would be more obvious, but who knows...

This socket was connected to the other relay line instead of a switch: To disable it temporarily, just insert a key or something else made of metal, and it will work. NOBODY does this with a regular power outlet...

It's possible to adapt it, as there are enough inconspicuous metal parts that can be bypassed with a key without it being obvious.

Best regards,

Jan.

That sounds pretty awesome .

You wouldn't come up with that so easily.


But this is primarily about kids who want to steal cars, and for that, I find it a bit too much effort .

You've given me an idea with your question!

A while ago, I bought a radio remote control from Egedöns for a small price to retrofit it to a G3.
Since my FFB has a trunk function that I don't need, I'm going to use it for this project.

The FFB is connected to a pulse relay, which offers the advantage of being unobtrusive while providing convenience and not drawing continuous power.

To ensure the vehicle remains operable, a button is installed in a hidden location. This button allows you to activate the relay in case of a malfunction of the remote control.


Best, Chriss.

"If you're not bothered by constantly pulling out the relay, you should then replace it with a faulty one; nobody would ever suspect that."