NW Hiring at PD: Questions & Answers

Hi,

I plan to check the Northwest (NW) setting on my printer and have a few quick questions about it before I start troubleshooting tomorrow.
Can I also turn the engine to the top dead center (TDC) using the timing belt pulley on the crankshaft, or do I need the upper arms from Schwarzenecker ? Or are there other ways to turn the engine besides pushing it or using the starter?

I just briefly checked the position of the timing mark hole relative to the long hole using a mirror. In my case, it's located almost at the end of the first third of the long hole. If the timing belt is off by one tooth, the worst-case scenario is that I can only adjust it to exactly Top Dead Center (TDC) and not 2 to 3 degrees earlier. Is that correct, or am I mistaken?

Best regards,
Hugo

hugo wrote:

Can I also turn the engine to the top dead center (TDC) position by using the timing belt pulley on the crankshaft

?
If disassembling the pulley wheel seems less troublesome to you than pushing, then go for it.
But don't go crazy on the NW!

Quote:

I briefly checked with the mirror today to see where the dowel hole for the long hole is located on the NW side. In my case, it's almost at the end of the first third of the long hole. If the timing belt is one tooth off, in the worst case, I can only adjust it to exactly TDC (Top Dead Center) and not 2 to 3 degrees earlier. Is that correct, or am I mistaken

.
It depends on the definition: From where do you start counting the first third?

>Kommt auf die Definition an: Von wo aus zählst Du das 1. One-third?

"Is that right? There was something , I mean, starting from the windshield and going towards the bumper."

hugo wrote:

>Kommt auf die Definition an: Von wo aus zählst Du das 1. One-third? "Yes, there was something , I meant starting from the windshield and going towards the bumper.

"
This would mean that 1/3 of the currently possible adjustment range of the NW (presumably a component or system) shifts towards the "early" setting, and 2/3 shifts towards the "late" setting.

I think with that adjustment of approximately 3° KW, you still wouldn't reach the early ignition timing limit (like with my engine).

Okay, thanks. I thought it was just about +/- 3 degrees at the timing mark to adjust, assuming everything is correctly set to Top Dead Center (TDC) from the center point. If the timing belt is off by a tooth, then things get tight.

I will then report on what the results are.

I'm not quite sure what you're trying to do. Setting the timing like you would on a vehicle with a variable valve timing (VEP) system doesn't work on a PD (direct injection) engine (at least, as far as I know). The elongated holes on the camshaft wheel are only for positioning the timing belt and don't provide any information about the 'start of injection.' You also have a two-piece camshaft wheel, so please explain to me how you envision this working.

Gottlike wrote:

I don't quite understand what you're planning to do.

/viewtopic.php?t=5408

Hi,
I have a question about setting up the PD elements.
How do you solve the problem of tightening the lock nut to 30 Nm when you don't have a torque wrench with a square opening?
You need to use a 6mm Allen key to hold the adjustment screw in place while simultaneously tightening the lock nut to 30 Nm.
How should one do that?
Secure with a 6mm Allen key and then tighten by hand until it feels snug.
or
Without tightening the 6mm Allen key to 30Nm, there is a possibility that the Allen key might come loose again.

How is it done?

greetings

PowerSound3L wrote:

How do you solve the problem of tightening the nut to 30 Nm if you don't have a torque wrench with a hole in the square end? You need to use a 6mm Allen key to hold the adjustment screw in place while simultaneously tightening the lock nut to 30 Nm. How should one do that?

In my experience, the Allen screw doesn't turn when you tighten the lock nut.

To ensure proper alignment, mark the position of the Allen screw with a dab of paint, tighten the lock nut with a torque wrench, and then double-check the mark.

Quote:

Hold with a 6mm Allen key and then tighten by hand, using your feel.

I am using markings to indicate where the nuts need to be loosened (-> see photos in the technical article).

hugo wrote:

Hi, Can I also turn the engine to the top dead center (TDC) using the timing belt pulley on the crankshaft, or do I need the upper arms from Schwarzenecker ? Or are there other ways to turn the engine besides pushing it or using the starter? Best regards, Hugo

Enjoy your meal!

I always turn the car sharply to the left, put it in 5th gear, and turn the steering wheel, all while wearing a hat.
The steering wheel adapter and extension work very well together, and it's a great solution for the Golf II/III.
The vortex chamber engine is very good at recognizing all relevant markings.
Maybe this will help.

Hi, Jockel.

Hello,

Okay, so I spent the whole weekend working on this. The initial setting was about 1.5 degrees advanced. I then switched it to OT (Overboost) and did a test drive. Subjectively, the engine felt more responsive above 3500 RPM, but there was a slight decrease in power at lower RPMs, around 2000-2500. The torque delivery felt about the same in the middle range.
Then I tested with 2 degrees of advance initially, and the effect described above was subjectively amplified. The DZW (dwell time) was, on average, 0.8 seconds better, but that can be considered negligible. However, I much, much prefer the characteristic now.
Oh yes, the engine is an AJM.

Thank you for your tips. I put in the effort and disassembled all the parts, and I rotated the engine using the crankshaft timing pulley to find the position relative to Top Dead Center (TDC). It's ideal to have two people working together to figure out the exact number of degrees from TDC.

My guess as to why the factory setting is tuned for late injection timing is that VW may have wanted to emphasize the higher torque output of the PD engines, perhaps for sales or test drives.

No matter what, I am happy, and that's good .

hugo wrote:

The initial setting was approximately 1.5 degrees before top dead center (TDC). I then set it to OT (top dead center) and took it for a test drive. Subjectively, the engine felt more responsive above 3500 RPM, but there was slightly less power at lower RPMs, around 2000-2500. The DZW (likely referring to a specific sensor or reading) was about the same in the middle range. Then I tested 2 degrees early in the morning, and the effect described above was subjectively intensified .

Hm, somehow, that doesn't quite make sense to me... if the initial setting was "NW 1.5° late compared to KW" (= KW with a fixed NW of 1.5° behind OT), then I can understand the development you experienced.

Quote:

The DZW was, on average, 0.8 seconds better, but this can be disregarded.

Well, if my car suddenly became 0.8 seconds slower than usual during the DZR time, I would definitely worry about where 12 horsepower and 30 Nm have suddenly disappeared - that would correspond to a deviation of 0.8 seconds.

Quote:

My guess as to why the factory setting is tuned for later timing is that perhaps VW wanted to emphasize the higher torque of the PD engines even more for sales/test drives.

I still believe that the KW strut's design, with its small radius and the necessary mounting hardware, allows for "significant" misalignments of the strut during the timing belt installation, which manifests itself in the factory routine as a frequent "too late" setting...