Golf 3: Drive/Suspension Problems

Hello,

I have two problems with my tractor.
First of all:
While driving at a constant speed, a deep, thudding sound can be heard from the driver's side, and at the same time, vibrations are felt in the footwell. This is most noticeable on relatively flat roads with small bumps. It disappears on larger bumps.
"When turning, there's a clicking or cracking sound, especially when the car is rolling slightly, such as when parking or coasting. Additionally, sometimes it feels like the steering isn't always correctly executing the commands when turning back. This is only noticeable when the car is stationary or rolling, and with a larger steering angle. It feels like the left wheel returns to center later than the right wheel, which sounds strange, but that's how it feels."

Could it be a wheel bearing? You only hear it at higher speeds, like on a highway, so you don't notice it otherwise.

The second problem is a rather loud clicking/rattling sound when the car is stationary. However, it doesn't always happen, but it's very frequent, especially when the engine is warm.
I've been able to narrow it down, and I can now say that the noise is coming from the transmission area. It gets louder the further you move your head towards the transmission while the engine is idling.
However, the ABS unit and the vacuum pump are still located there.
With just a slight increase in gas, almost imperceptibly raising the idle speed, the noise completely disappears. It doesn't matter whether the clutch or brake is engaged or not.

Well, I'm not exactly sure what I'm supposed to be looking for, or how I might be able to test certain parts.
Oh yeah, the car has a threaded wheel speed sensor (FWK) installed, which might be relevant to the first problem.

Sure, no problem. Here's the translation:

"Thank you in advance."

Good evening.

Have you ever taken a look at what's behind the tires? Maybe you'll spot the problem right away. That clicking sound when steering sounds a lot like it's coming from the strut mounts. Try observing that. Have one person steer the car while the other watches the springs. Do they twist or become strained when steering, and then release with that clicking sound?

Hello,

Okay, I'll do that.
It was quite warm today, with a temperature of around 8°C. That meant problem number 2 was probably not an issue.
"This is becoming clearer. The car now noticeably pulls to the left when starting. When driving straight, there is no deviation from what was previously observed, meaning the car is not pulling to the side more strongly now if you release the steering wheel."

Edit: What's the best way to test the wheel bearing at the same time? Should I use the usual "wiggle the wheel" method while the car is jacked up?

It could also be the outer joint of the driveshaft. If that's worn out, it can initially exhibit these symptoms (before it's completely defective). Depending on your driving style, the joints can wear out relatively quickly.
If it's not the strut mount, perhaps check the joint.

I would also suspect the driveshaft joint. I had a similar problem with one of my cars before, and it was a faulty joint.

The new driveshaft solved the problem, and everything was back to normal.

Regarding point 2... the clicking and rattling sounds... unfortunately, I have no idea!

If it's the driveshaft, the entire shaft doesn't necessarily need to be replaced. The outer joints are available separately, and replacing them is relatively straightforward.

How do I check the joint?
I once completely removed the driveshaft from the transmission on my old 2er, and that was a real pain .

Regarding point 2.
I think it's the vacuum pump. The noise isn't present when the weather is warm, between 10-16°C! I drive about 120km every day, and it hasn't happened again.
"However, the brake pedal has become spongier, which is why I suspect there might be an issue with the pump."
I think VW might be able to check the vacuum somehow.

The best option is definitely to replace the entire driveshaft. I didn't find it too difficult on my Golf; it took about half an hour to complete. Is the boot still in good condition? If so, you might as well replace it at the same time, which would definitely make the replacement worthwhile. Before removing it, make sure to get a new end nut, clamps, and constant velocity (CV) joint grease.
The best way to check is, of course, a visual inspection of the storage surfaces. However, this is a tedious task when the components are already installed.
The next suggestion, of course, is at your own risk.
Another option is to jack up the car on the relevant side, start the engine, and put it in gear (but be careful). This only works if the car does not have ABS. Of course, the car must be very securely secured against rolling away for this check, so that the car doesn't fall off the jack or anything like that. If the wheel turns, carefully turn the steering wheel and listen to see if the noises appear.
However, I believe that expanding it while simultaneously changing the cuff is the better option.
Have you checked the strut mounts?

Hello,

It might sound silly, but have you checked if your wheel bolts are tight? I once bought a car that was supposedly having "transmission problems," but it turned out that the wheel was just loose. The symptoms were also things like clicking noises while driving at a constant speed, etc.

Best regards,
Albrecht.

Hi,

They're not relaxed at all. I had the same thought, especially because the car sometimes feels like it has a flat tire on the front left, but it doesn't; the tire pressure is constant.

Based on the above test, the strut mounts don't seem to be the issue. However, the springs are very difficult to see due to the lowered suspension.
The axle boots are also in good condition. I haven't been able to test the joint yet.
I've noticed that the brake on that side also gets warmer, and that the car "breaks away" to the left when braking.

ABS is fine, at least there are no error messages.
Tomorrow I'll lift the car up again, and hopefully I'll be able to see something about the wheel bearing.
There are no visible signs of skidding or other damage on the tires.

Oh yeah, by now the car has 196,000 kilometers on the odometer.

Hi,
Have you replaced the front brake pads recently?

'I experienced a similar issue with my BMW, where the brakes were pulling unevenly; however, this occurred after I replaced the rotors and pads! At the BMW dealership, they told me I would need to replace the brake calipers because a burr had formed on them, which was causing the pistons to stick and not retract properly. This would cause the brake to overheat and pull to one side, as if the alignment was off!'

A visit to the workshop to check the abrasive belt and the unevenly pulling brake is a thing of the past.

Regards,
Golfchriss

What you haven't mentioned yet is the engine mounts. Are they all still okay?
The clicking sound could also be coming from that direction.


How is the steering linkage? Are all the bolts still attached? Is it sealed? Is it worn out?
It could be a possible cause for the vague handling.

The brake pads and rotors are already about 20,000 km old.
"Yes, engine mounts would also be a good idea. The steering rack is a possibility, but I've ruled it out so far because there's no power steering fluid leak. However, when I have the car jacked up, I'll check it."
I'll check everything tomorrow; luckily, I'm on vacation.

So, I had the car jacked up today.
What I've noticed is that, in my opinion, the stabilizer bar bushing has too much play. The car was jacked up in the front on the left side, and the bushing looks very compressed on the control arm. This bushing, where the stabilizer bar is inserted, could be moved with just two fingers without any effort.
I'm not sure how much play is supposed to be there. It seemed very loose to me. The wheel bearings seem to be okay, and the axle boots are all in good condition.
The tie rod ends also appeared quite dirty, but they had virtually no play.

Hi,

If the stabilizer links are broken, that could definitely explain the clunking noises during driving and the unusual handling characteristics.
Regarding the tie rod ends:
If they have any noticeable play, replace them immediately. The fact that the tires are not wearing unevenly on the inside and outside does not necessarily guarantee that there is no play in the steering.
How did you test the game?
Are the dust caps still in perfect condition, or were there any noticeable traces of grease?

Best regards from Berlin.
Olli.

The dust covers on the tie rods are okay.
They don't have any moving parts, at least not any that I can manipulate with my hands.
But the stabilizer links are definitely worn out; I'll replace them.