Golf 3 Tie Rod End: Test & Replacement

Hello everyone,

"The TÜV (German technical inspection agency) reported an issue with my left ball joint. How can I test to see if it's actually defective? The TÜV inspector couldn't really explain it convincingly... I also couldn't notice any negative changes in the way the car handles."

Regardless, it's likely that I'll have to change it.
Can I replace this without affecting the alignment? If so, what's the best way to do it? Is there a trick to getting the "pin" out of the wheel hub housing?


Thank you for your help.

Hi!

Well, in older cars, the ball joints tend to fail more often.

If nothing appears loose on the lift, the inspector usually uses a long pry bar to lever between the control arm and the spindle.
I'm just saying, the inspectors aren't stupid. And if the joint has even a little bit of play, it won't last another two years, and eventually, the tires will wear out. Hopefully, you'll hear it before it happens.

To switch:
Luckily, I have a lift platform available.
Without a lift, and using only a jack in the driveway, I wouldn't recommend doing this to anyone, because you often have to use quite a bit of force, and getting half a car out of the head or arm area can be very difficult.

Okay:
First, mark the position of the joint on the control arm, as there are likely elongated holes there.
Then, spray everything with rust remover.

Loosen the three screws at the bottom of the control arm slightly.
Remove the clamping screw from the axle stub.

Then, you would have to somehow use a long pry bar to lift the control arm, position the rod at the back against the body (using a piece of rubber to protect it from scratches), and push the control arm firmly downwards.
and simultaneously hitting the lower control arm with a hammer.

Then it usually falls apart.
The problem is that the pin sometimes gets stuck or jammed in the groove that surrounds it in the axle housing. Keep an eye on it.

Then you'll be able to dislocate the joint, even with some effort and pressure, and then put the new one back in.

I would definitely recommend having the wheel alignment checked.
Even if you reinstall it after removing the markings or old impressions.

Applying a generous amount of rust remover to the spindle and into the slot of the wheel bearing housing greatly simplifies the process.

As previously mentioned, a subsequent survey is recommended.

Hello.

Thank you for the detailed answers.
I will report back after the repair is complete.

The entire process can be done without a lift, but it can become problematic if the clamping screw is heavily rusted, as I've had to drill some out in the past.

Is the stabilizer bar connected to the control arm in this model?
Then you need to loosen it before jacking up the car, especially if you're lifting it on only one side.
You can't overcome the stabilizer voltage.
hg
herbert

I've replaced countless tie rod ends and have never had to remove the stabilizer bar. You might want to eat a better breakfast in the future...