Problem changing the rubber bellows on the G4

Hello everyone!

Yesterday, I wanted to quickly replace the stabilizer bar bushings on the G4 because it's been making a noticeable clattering noise at the front axle when driving over small bumps.
Okay, I lifted the front of the vehicle, removed the right bracket with the rubber insert, and installed a new rubber insert with a new bracket.
Here's the thing: The pre-tension of the new rubber bands is so high that the mounting screw is still a long way from the first thread .
How on earth is one supposed to simultaneously try to screw something in at this extremely difficult-to-reach location, while also having to push the bracket over the rubber with full force to get close enough to the thread in the seat frame? I failed to accomplish this yesterday.
The Golf with the loose stabilizer bar is currently in the garage and waiting for the work to be completed.

Does anyone have a good tip on how to solve this problem alone, without using a lift, so by jacking up the vehicle?

Regards,
Alex.

Hi,

The lifting point comes from below, right? Maybe you can use a jack and a piece of wood to help if you can't reach it directly.

Best regards,

Jan.

Hi!
hatte bei meinem A3 dasselbe Problem und hab einen halben Nachmittag damit verbracht die Dinger wieder anzuschrauben. Habe dann aber auch mit Hilfe des Wagenhebers und über 100 Versuchen das dumme Ding wieder an die ursprüngliche Position gebracht.
By the way, if you use a second jack to slightly lower the opposite wheel, you can adjust the position of the stabilizer bar and make it easier to align the clamps into the correct position.
Sure, here is the translation of the text from German to English:

"MFG" stands for "Mit freundlichen Grüßen," which translates to "Sincerely" or "Best regards" in English. It is a common way to end a formal letter or email.

So, dass wäre geschafft!!!

For those who can't stand the clunking noise in the front axle anymore and want to replace the stabilizer bar mounts themselves, here's a short report with pictures.
The following information applies to the A3 platform, Golf 4, Skoda Octavia, and Seat Leon models.

You should completely (and securely!!!) jack up the front of the vehicle, ensuring that both front wheels are fully extended. Only in this position will the access to the mounting screws on the support brackets not be obstructed by the tie rods, and the stabilizer bar will be free from tension.
Then you should remove the wheels and definitely disconnect the connection between the stabilizer bar and the tie rod (using a 16mm wrench); this is very helpful .
Nun kann man das Rad, an dem gerade arbeitet, komplett nach außen einschlagen, damit sich die Spustange samt Faltenbalgkomplett nach hinten verdrückt. So hat man max. Arbeitsspielraum. Mit einer normalen 1/2"-Knarre und 13er Nuss kommt man nun einigermaßen gut an die M8x18 Befestigungsschraube des Haltebügels heran. Nachdem die Schraube entfernt wurde kann man nun am losen Stabiende selbigen etwas nach oben drücken, um die Halteschelle auszuhaken. DeThe rubber band can be easily removed after the tab has been taken off.
I lightly greased the new rubber and the inside of the steel bracket to make things easier. To attach the rubber, it's helpful to push the stabilizer bar slightly upwards and backwards at the same time, so you can slip the part over it and position it correctly.
Then comes the more difficult part: assembling the mounting bracket.
With the stabilizer bar pressed upwards, slide the new retaining bracket over the rubber (attention: design change, new stabilizer rubbers must always be installed with new, matching mounting brackets). Then push the stabilizer bar downwards and forwards, while pressing the bracket as far and firmly as possible over the rubber with the other hand (a little grease between the parts is very helpful here).
It quickly becomes apparent that the new rubber bushings have a significant amount of pre-tension. Even when pressed firmly, there is still a gap between the flap and the thread that cannot be bridged with a screw.
I specifically purchased a very small C-clamp with a maximum clamping length of 150mm for this purpose. I then placed the clamp between the bracket and the edge of the motor housing, compressing the rubber as much as possible.
Even in this case, it is still very difficult to properly align the screw with the original one without damaging the threads.
Deshalb habe ich kurzerhand eine gut 5mm längere Schraube (M8x25) aus meinem Fundus genommen und diese angesetzt. Damit war es kein Problem, zuerst einige Gewindegänge ohne Vorspannung einzuschrauben, bevor Kraft aufgebaut wird. Beim Ansetzen der Schraube muss man natürlich darauf achten, dass die Richtung in beiden Ebenen senkrecht zum Gewinde liegt. Durch den Einsatz der Schraubzwinge kann es passieren, dass die Haltelasche leicht nach außen gezogen wird. D"Ann must be corrected firmly."
Once the screw had properly engaged, the rest was easy. Tighten until the strap is flush, then use a torque wrench to tighten it to 25 Nm. Then reattach the tie rod. A self-locking nut M10 is installed here and should be replaced (tightening torque 30 Nm). Of course, I didn't have a suitable nut on hand, so I secured the old one using threadlocker (Loctite).
Then put the wheel back on and move on to the next page.

If you know how, the whole process can be completed in about 1 hour. However, I initially had colossal problems, which meant I had to spend at least 4 hours on it .

To save other DIY enthusiasts from wasting their time, I decided to write this short report about my experience.

Attached you will find some pictures of the event.

Regards,
Alex.

Wow, I didn't realize that was such a complex process. Thanks for your instructions.

I've also been hearing some noises coming from my car's suspension lately, but I'm not sure if it's the stabilizer bar.

Can you tell by the sound it makes, or can you detect it by observing the stabilizer bars, for example, if they are shaking or jerking?

For me, it's a hollow sound, like a "plop," when driving over small bumps or uneven surfaces.

What causes the rattling noise in these bearings?
Will the rubber become so soft that it will make contact with something?

Holger247 wrote:

I've also recently started hearing noises coming from the suspension on my car, but I'm not sure if it's the stabilizer bars. Kann man das am Geräusch erkennen oder an den Stabilagern z.B. durch Ruckeln feststellen?

Before performing a stability test, it's important to disconnect something between the stabilizer bar and the shock absorber. Only then can you be sure that the stabilizer bar is not under load, and any instability detected by a "weak" hand could indicate play in the bearings.

Otherwise, the stabilizer is almost always under tension and is pushed so strongly "into the corner" within the bearings that it cannot be moved against with a simple manual test.

Quote:

Bei mir ist es ein hohles Geräusch wie ein plopp, wenn man über kurze Unebenheiten fährt.

It could also be coming from the ball joints of the tie rod – if your car has them.

Regarding zu doalexos' report:

It's possible that Volkswagen learned something from the G4 platform during the development of the 9N.
I've also already opened my stabilizer legs to thoroughly lubricate them because I was hearing creaking noises from the ground engagement rollers.

In the 9N, at least the screws are long enough that you can get them in without using a clamp. However, when tightening the screws, the drive shafts often get in the way, so you have to use tricks with the jack .

Quote:

What actually causes the rattling in these bearings? Wird der Gummi so weich das der Stabi irgendwo anschlägt?

Behind the rubber bushings on the stabilizer bar, there are plates welded in place. (This prevents the stabilizer bar from moving sideways.) Unfortunately, these plates are obscured in the picture. The plates have very little clearance to the support frame and can hit against it even when the rubber bushings appear intact under load.

Regards,
Andreas G.

My dad experienced exactly the same thing as described above. However, everything eventually went in. The exact reason for the rattling:
Der Stabi hatte Luft zum Gummi! Der Gummi war auch total verhärtet und der Stabi wackelte darin. Den besten Test kann man machen, indem man ein Rad abnimmt, und einfach am Stabi seitlich ! zieht. Wenn er sich mit wenig Kraft seitlich hin und her bewegen läßt sind die Gimmis und womöglich auch der Stabi selbst tot. Ich habe auch schon beim Freundlichen gesehen, daß der Stabi an der Stelle wo der Gummi sitzt total eingelaufen ist. Sprich: der neue Gummi nützt nichts, da er nicht mehr klemmt. Das kommt aber eher selten vor, denke ich. ASo, it's better to grease the new ones a little bit .

Greetings.

Bee wrote:

Fett und Gummi mögen sich nicht besonders, da die meisen Fette leicht sauer sind bzw. sauer reagieren.

I'm familiar with that problem too.

Having had several good experiences in the past, I applied a generous amount of silicone grease spray to my (already opened) stabilizer joints.

The issue was the well-known VA (rear axle) creaking noise when driving over bumps, which, according to a VW information bulletin, is supposedly caused by the rear transverse control arm rubber bushings. -> When making complaints, the newer versions should be installed.

I sprayed the rubber bushings in the control arms at the same time, and now it's been quiet for about 8 months. However, I don't actually know where the creaking was coming from .

@ Bee:
Do you think the silicone grease might still damage the stabilizer or control arm bushings eventually?

@Ulf: I have no idea! Silicone fats and oils are usually acid-free. But what does 'usually' really mean?
You could try testing the elasticity of a condom after it has been in contact with your body fat for a day (but be sure to wipe off any pre-applied lubricant first).

Regards,
Bee.

"So, that creaking sound you hear with slight floor vibrations definitely comes from the stabilizer rubber bushings. It was the same on my A3. I also delayed replacing them for a while, even after applying silicone spray. However, eventually, the rattling became so annoying that I finally decided to do the job."
By the way, you can also use the old clamps. Although the new rubber bands have been slightly modified, you can simply cut off the "ridge" with a sharp knife, and then they will fit into the old clamps. Since the replacement, complete peace has returned .
You can also easily tell if the rubber bushings are worn by completely lifting the front of the car (so that both front wheels are suspended and in the air), and then you'll see a small gap appear between the rubber bushing and the stabilizer bar.
Sure, here is the translation of the text from German to English:

"MFG" stands for "Mit freundlichen Grüßen," which translates to "Sincerely" or "Best regards" in English. It is a common way to end a formal letter or email.

My stabilizer links were also worn out, and since they were causing a terrible rattling noise, and it was raining heavily at the time, I had them replaced at ATU because I didn't have a garage or carport. Since I was able to watch, I politely looked over the mechanic's shoulder, and he really put in effort. The replacement took 20 minutes and cost a total of €44.15, all inclusive.
All things considered, I am now satisfied and didn't find it too expensive.
The only annoying thing is the creaking sound coming from the rear axle; I'm going to check the bearings there.

Okay, so what's the deal now? Which type of grease should I use? I've read several times that when people lubricate things, the rubber parts tend to fail relatively quickly – and frankly, I don't want to go through that again.

By the way, is the rear rubber-to-metal bushing on your lower control arm also torn? And at what point should you replace it? Is it a must?