TDI Not Starting? White Smoke - Get Help Now!

Hello.
I have a problem: My car won't start!
Initially, my car only had trouble starting when it was cold, and it always produced white smoke, but only during startup. Later, it started having the same problem even when it was warmer.
Now it won't start at all. It's only producing white smoke from the exhaust.
It probably has something to do with the injection system.

I've already checked several things.
- Timing is correct.
-Removed the injector, and it's spraying.
-Read error codes, but none found.
- Spark plugs replaced.

It's an Audi 80 1.9 TDI 1Z.

Do you remember what else it could be?

Did you read the engine RPM during the starting attempt?

No, I didn't. I just turned on the ignition and read the error codes.

Haehnleins Superthread will definitely provide you with a solution.

/viewtopic.php?t=1610&highlight=qualm

It pretty much lists all the possible sources of error that could exist.
However, based on your description of the problem, I suspect a loose KW wheel nut. Try using the search function and searching for "KW screw." That should provide you with plenty of reading material.


EDIT:

Quote:

Timing is correct

How is it checked?
Statically, it doesn't achieve anything, and dynamically, it probably won't work if it's not running!

What are the compression values?

A mechanic did it; he checked the valve timing. He does timing belt replacements and other jobs every day.
I will check the compression tomorrow and let you know the results. I will also check to see if the crankshaft pulley is loose.

Thank you in advance for your help.

I checked the valve timing again today, and it seems like it's not quite right.
They are slightly misaligned. I can only test the compression tomorrow, and also the crankshaft screw. My supervisor keeps saying it's the pump.
But if you remove the injectors and leave the lines connected, and then start the engine, if one of the injectors sprays (which it will), then the pump should build up enough pressure. Could the problem really be with the pump in that case?

I just sent my nozzles away to be refurbished.

Unfortunately, I can't check the compression until next week because I've shipped the brackets with the nozzles. I need those. The crankshaft bolt shouldn't be loose, since the valve timing is very accurate and the timing belt is still very tight. Or should it be loose?

If the compression is correct, then I think the problem is likely related to the fuel injection system.

If you're sure the screw is tightened properly, try letting the car roll. If it then starts, the starter motor is turning too slowly, or there's a lack of compression.

Okay, I'll try that tomorrow.

Today I installed new fuel injectors, but the engine won't start; it's only emitting white smoke from the exhaust.
I checked the timing myself again. Isn't it true that the fuel injection pumps are very sensitive in these engines?
The bolt doesn't go all the way in, but it's very tight. Also, the pin on the valve cover only goes in halfway.
It's clear that the timing needs to be adjusted, but shouldn't it still start if the problem is related to the timing and it's running poorly?



Can the crankshaft bolt be loose even if the timing belt is still fully tensioned?

RuffRyda wrote:

... Can the crankshaft bolt be loose even if the timing belt is still fully tensioned?

For the 100,000th time in this forum:

YES!

The search function almost overwhelms you with the number of posts related to this topic.

https://community.dieselschrauber.org/en/viewtopic.php?t=20154&highlight=kw+schraube
https://community.dieselschrauber.org/en/viewtopic.php?t=16548 -> Zitat daraus: "Der TDI qualmt jetzt beim Kaltstart massiv. Color: white.

Here's another one who didn't want to believe in the KW screw...: https://community.dieselschrauber.org/en/viewtopic.php?t=14138&highlight=kw+schraube

Another one with white smoke coming from the exhaust: https://community.dieselschrauber.org/en/viewtopic.php?t=11643&highlight=kw+schraube (and again, a KW screw).
... and many more!

The hub on the crankshaft pulley is breaking off, and the lower pulley is no longer rotating smoothly. The small amount of material lost (only a few tenths of a millimeter) has a minimal impact on the ZR tension.

Okay, I will definitely check that out, since I have to adjust the timing anyway.
Then it will be done.

despite the thousand times thank you for the message