Passat 35i: How to Replace Car Speakers

Hi,

Since I want to remove my original VW factory-installed speakers, I have two questions about that:

Can the woofers be removed with the door panel installed (I tried carefully to remove the protective grille, but unfortunately without success)??? Is the tweeter unit glued in place??? I also couldn't remove them by gently prying .

Thank you very much in advance .

Hi Christian,

You can only remove the woofers in the doors by taking off the trim panel. However, you can do this as many times as you like, because the trim panel is screwed on, not clipped, so it won't break off.
You can then see how the grid is fastened .

I think the tweeters are just plugged in.

DocSnydor wrote:

You can only remove the bass speakers in the doors if you remove the trim. However, you can do this as many times as you like, because the trim is screwed on, not clipped on... So it can't break off. Then you can see how the grid is fastened

.

Hi DocSnydor,

Well, that's not so bad (I have to hide the crossover somewhere anyway ).

DocSnydor wrote:

I think the tweeters are also just plugged in...

For me, the whole thing is very securely in place. The tweeters are screwed to the unit from below and could fall behind the dashboard if the screws are loosened . Maybe I really need to use some force .

'Really, the tweeters are screwed in? Mine are mounted in the 10-hole slots in the dashboard...'

By the way, you won't get a great sound if you install different speakers (16-inch) in your doors. It still won't have much bass.
Supposedly, the volume between the door panel and the soundproofing mat is too small. Apparently, you need to cut a hole in the film (foam) behind the speaker that is the same size, so that it sounds better.
The problem is that then water can get in. [/sup]

You're right... the tweeters are actually just plugged in, and the screws are for the magnet of the tweeters (a questionable design).

@bass:

What kind of subwoofers do you have? I got the Canton CS 2.16 and tried them out yesterday without an amplifier -> actually, they have quite a bit of bass . Honestly, I can't imagine that a little bit of damping material will change the bass much... the bass just goes through it... after all, a speaker box is also full of damping material -> the size of the resonance chamber and, above all, the quality of the subwoofers are the decisive factors.

I once tried an Infinity in a device as a test. Then I adjusted the balance control back and forth, but unfortunately, I didn't hear the expected difference. Since the Infinities were very expensive, I decided to leave it for now and put the good Nokia chassis back in }.
The thing with the speaker was also intended for the listening room. I was told that it's simply too small with the acoustic panels. You really need to utilize the entire door space to get deep bass.

DocSnydor wrote:

And then I adjusted the balance control back and forth, and unfortunately, I didn't hear the expected difference.

Okay, in my case, these are two completely different worlds . The cantons already have a decent amount of bass . The mid-range is a bit lacking in this system (which might also be due to my Aldi radio, I'll see how it sounds with an amplifier).

Really??? Did you change anything else about the doors? I specifically insulated the outer metal with bitumen mats...
Did you simply screw the L-bracket onto the original plastic holder? Perhaps my L-brackets weren't suitable for passive doors...
I'm glad it worked for you. The original sound, despite the relatively large speakers, is... well, not great. It's kind of like a radio alarm clock.

DocSnydor wrote:

Really??? Have you changed anything else about the doors?

Hi,

"No, nothing at all, just screw it in and it's done. The original speakers are really a disaster... you can already tell by the behavior of the membranes -> you shouldn't expect any bass. The Canton CS already has very well-developed woofers . Infinity speakers are actually also very good (I had some in my old car and was very impressed)."

I also installed the Canton CS 2.16 speakers in the front doors and the RS 2.13 (the predecessor model to the current CS 2.13) in the rear.
'I took the initiative to cut the door foil in a circular shape around the magnet area to ensure a proper connection to the door cavity. It's definitely advisable. However, you then need to attach a kind of splash guard – a strip of rigid foil, approximately 3 cm wide and 10 cm long – above the hole on the side facing the interior of the door, otherwise you'll get a lot of water ingress (I tested it without the door panel while washing). Also, I applied soundproofing mats to the door, but that's not really necessary for the doors of the Passat.'

To secure the speakers, I used the original plastic mounting brackets, but I reinforced them with MDF wood. Specifically, I attached a thick ring of MDF to them and screwed it in, making them more rigid. Without this reinforcement, the speaker vibrates quite a bit at higher volumes, which results in a loss of sound quality.

I simply installed the tweeters in the original mounting locations and aimed them towards the driver. However, mounting them on the A-pillars would provide better sound staging, although it's quite a complicated process to install them there properly.

'For the rear doors, I ordered the LS grilles from the front and cut the door panels accordingly (they are already marked from the inside). There are original mounting brackets for the LS speakers, but I made my own from MDF. I mounted the tweeters above the door handle and lowered their level significantly, as they are quite close to the driver (otherwise, they would distort the soundstage). Installing the speakers in the rear doors makes a significant difference in sound quality compared to installing them in the trunk in the original locations. By the way, you can easily fit a 16cm speaker system in the rear doors; I just had the 13cm speakers from my previous car.'

For optimal bass and sound quality, it's crucial to create a seal between the 'front' and 'back' of the speaker. This means ensuring that a foam ring creates a tight seal between the speaker and the door panel, preventing any sound leakage or 'short circuits.' Ideally, the speaker should be positioned as close as possible to the door panel.
I once saw an installation where the installer completely removed the original grilles, and the speaker mounts were flush with the door panel. In this setup, the speakers protrude slightly, and they no longer have any protection. However, there's no risk of sound loss due to sound short circuits or cancellations.

'For the main amplifier, I'm using a Helix 500, and it's more than enough power for me. However, to support the very low frequencies, I also have a 25-inch subwoofer mounted in the floor.'


Best regards, ixery.

ixery wrote:

To secure the speakers, I obtained the original plastic mounting brackets, but I reinforced them significantly with MDF wood. Specifically, I attached a thick ring of MDF and screwed it in, making it stiffer. Without this reinforcement, the speaker vibrates quite a bit at higher volumes, which results in losses!

Hi Ixery,

These are still some healthy hints . There are already some losses in the door (especially compared to my old Passat -> well, that one also didn't have side impact protection and could swing nicely). Did you screw the MDF ring between the speaker and this bracket (in the front)?

ixery wrote:

For the bass and overall sound quality, it is very important to ensure a separation between the "front" and "back" of the speaker. This means making sure that a foam ring seals the space between the speaker and the door panel, creating a tight seal against the back of the speaker and preventing any sound short circuits. Ideally, the speaker should be positioned as close as possible to the door panel.

That sounds good!! So, you glued a sealing ring to the speaker or door panel and hoped that it would seal properly when assembled?

ixery wrote:

I once saw an installation where the installer completely removed the original grilles, and the speaker mounts were flush with the door panel.

In this case, the speaker protrudes slightly, so it no longer has any protection. However, there is no risk of sound loss due to sound short circuits or cancellations. }

"That's how I did it with my old Passat -> it's already the best bass solution. Maybe I'll do the same with the current one... you can always add a grille later }."

I've now installed my amplifier -> incredible sound . I will still attach the woofers directly to the door panel as soon as possible... ixery is right: the air gap between this speaker bracket and the panel is too large -> a significant amount of sound is lost .

DocSnydor wrote:

By the way, you won't get a great sound if you install other speakers (16-inch) in the doors.

It still won't have much bass.

Hi,

I installed another 25cm woofer in the rear cover for the spare tire. The sound, combined with the Canton CS system, is simply top-notch .

Unfortunately, the spare tire is missing . Then, maybe after years without any problems, there will finally be something for the ADAC to do .

I also experimented with different configurations on the front (e.g., attaching the woofer directly to the enclosure and drilling a hole in the splash guard) to improve the bass, but to no avail. The resonance chamber in the 35i seems to be insufficient.

I also experimented with the front (attaching the woofer directly to the housing and drilling a hole in the splash guard) to improve the bass , but without success. The resonance chamber in the 35i seems to be insufficient }.

Okay, then I can skip that }. In my case, the bass also comes exclusively from the trunk (and there's no spare tire).