Golf 4 Noises After Control Arm Replacement

Hello everyone,

ich bin etwas genervt von meinem G4 Variant mit ASZ Motor. Am Wochenende wurde die hinteren Querlenkerlager gewechselt. Es wurde die Stabilere Vollgummi Variante aus dem TT verbaut. Leider dröhnt die Kiste jetzt im unteren Drehzahlbereich. Es ist extrem nervig! Um die Lager zu tauschen hat der Schraubi den kompletten Querlenker ausgebaut, dazu auch die Antriebswellen gelöst (Achsmutter). Leider hat er, warum auch immer dann letztendlich die drei Schrauben des Tragegelenks gelöst und den Querlenker ausgebaut. Also ziemlich viel murks , da nun auch noch eine Achsvermessung gemacht werden sollte. Beim wiederzusammenbau sind mir einige Sachen aufgefallen die nicht wie im Reparaturleitfaden beschrieben, gemacht wurden. Die Schraube für die vorderen Querlenkerlager wurde nicht bei belasteter Achse festgezogen und die Achsmuttern wurden nur mim Schlagschrauber angeoxt. Kann es sein, dass durch diese Abweichungen die Querlenker verspannt sind, oder die Radlager zu fest anpressen und dieses nervige dröhnen verursachen? Or are the bearings simply too stiff and directly transmit the engine vibrations to the body?

This mess just proves to me again that it's best to do everything yourself!

Does anyone of the professional burglars have any idea what might be causing this?

Thank you and best regards.
Reuselkopp.

Rubber bushings in the transverse control arm often cause droning or vibration problems in TDI engines.
The Octavia 4x4 user had also tried the same thing, with the same result.
The problem is the weight difference between the cast and stamped control arms.

Okay, great! So, is it the solid rubber bushings? Should the axle nuts be tightened again according to the specifications, or is it okay as it is, the way the mechanic did it?

Is there anything that can be done about the rumbling noise, or do I just have to live with it?

Regards,
Reuselkopp.

I also have that issue in my Golf... you just have to live with it, it doesn't change even after 40,000 km. So it's not related to the installation, even though the procedure seems questionable.

Revert to the original factory settings, or live with it.

reuselkopp wrote:

Well, great! So, is it the solid rubber bushings? Should the axle nuts be tightened again according to the specifications, or is what the mechanic did okay?

If the rubber bushings are permanently twisted when the quick-release screws are tightened and the axle is under normal load, then it was probably done incorrectly: in that case, the parts will become brittle and need to be replaced prematurely, but that shouldn't affect the acoustics.

Quote:

Is there anything that can be done about the rumbling noises, or do I just have to live with them?

Probably the latter, as I already mentioned.
For the Polo 9N and related models, the conversion to full rubber bushings is considered a steering precision tuning, and the annoying vibration/humming in the front of the car during acceleration or when driving in high gears below ~1500 rpm is considered an acceptable side effect .

Hello everyone,
That doesn't sound good at all. I really should have done a bit more research beforehand. I hadn't read anything about booming noises or vibrations, otherwise I wouldn't have had those things installed.
Would adding more bitumen damping mats from the car audio area to the floor pan in the footwell make a difference? I have some of those mats lying around in the basement. They are supposed to help reduce booming or vibrations. I bought them for my G3 back then, but never installed them.

Greetings.
reuselkopp

The mats only prevent the metal from vibrating at certain frequencies by shifting or dampening the resonance frequency. But your rumbling isn't caused by vibrations of the metal.

So, these insulation mats don't really do anything.

"You can't do anything about it. These parts come from a car with completely different control arms (see the answer above). You can find information everywhere online, even here, that they behave as described in a TDI. I installed them because 1. I had ordered them incorrectly, and 2. I didn't want to return them. The rattling noise doesn't bother me; the steering feel has become noticeably more direct, which compensates for the drawback."

Before you start trying to fix everything, why not just swap the parts out? It takes about an hour, and then it should be fine. Besides, they don't cost anything...