AC Condenser for Skoda Octavia 1Z - Replacement

Hi there!
The A/C condenser in my Octavia is leaking, and I want to replace it.

Okay, no problem so far. But if a new cylinder is installed, I have to drive there to get it filled. Am I allowed to do that with the empty system?

There should still be oil inside the compressor. There is also some refrigerant remaining.
I don't really want to destroy the compressor.

turrican944 wrote:

...There should still be some oil in the compressor.

Now, the question is: should there be oil, or is there enough oil?

How did the capacitor fail, or what caused it to break? Was it due to stone impact, corrosion, or an accident?
In the latter case, there is a high risk that a significant amount of oil has been lost because the system involved in the accident may have been operating under high pressure, which could have caused a sudden and large leak, potentially carrying away a considerable quantity of oil.
With the other variants, it's less of a problem because the loss occurs relatively slowly.

Hi.
Okay, I expressed that imprecisely. It's actually just the dryer cover that sits on top of the condenser, and that's where the leak is. With the Denso unit that's installed in mine, the dryer isn't available as a separate part.
The system isn't completely empty yet, but after the capacitor replacement, there shouldn't be anything left inside.
I am aware that one should not tamper with something without proper authorization or proof.

Hi there!

It is important that the existing refrigerant is first extracted before the system is opened, but be careful because even after being emptied, there may still be residual pressure, and it could literally go into your eye.

Obtain new O-rings and lubricate them with the appropriate compressor oil, as well as any fittings if present. Make sure the new condenser is filled with protective gas (you should hear it hissing when you open the protective caps); otherwise, it's essentially scrap and needs to be returned for a replacement.

Leave the fittings open only for as long as necessary; otherwise, the dryer will become saturated again quickly.

The compressor usually doesn't start if the system is empty; the ND switch is supposed to prevent this. If you want to be absolutely sure, unplug the compressor. Remember to plug it back in before filling the system.

Best regards, Rüdi.

Hi.
It's clear that the compressor won't work without being plugged in, but since there's no clutch, it will always spin.

Since I'm still a bit hesitant, I bought an intercooler bypass belt today for vehicles without air conditioning, and it even fits in a car with air conditioning (which is surprising, but probably it would be too expensive to build two different bracket holders). Anyway, now the compressor doesn't spin anymore, and consequently, it won't seize up.

Sure is sure, but it wouldn't have been necessary.

Yes, nowadays, the frames are typically manufactured uniformly due to production and storage costs. It's surprising that the compressor doesn't obstruct the belt path; that's quite unusual.

Hi there!
I also didn't expect that, but it fits perfectly, and there is plenty of space between the belt and the compressor. Whether it's necessary or not, those almost 12 euros for the belt are definitely cheaper than a compressor. Today the new capacitor arrives, and then I can start happily screwing things together .

The statement that it wasn't necessary came a bit late . All the others (including Skoda itself) weren't really helpful; I always got the response that it should work, but they weren't really sure, and in the Elsa system, it's also very vaguely worded.

Hello,
I just installed that expansion pack last week.

Remove the bumper (headlights are held in place from behind with one plastic nut; pull the lever on the side outwards to remove). Disconnect the fan assembly and loosen the four screws to remove it. Detach the air conditioning condenser from the front and the water cooler from the back. Then, open the entire assembly at the bottom towards the engine and pull out the air conditioning condenser.
Don't forget to replace the seals; it's best to get the one for the pressure sensor at the same time. Be careful when opening the sensor; apply some pressure beforehand.

Time required with a lift: approximately 2 hours. Without a lift, you'll need to jack up the car sufficiently so that the radiator can be removed from underneath.

Best regards,

Hi.
Okay, so today I went to the junkyard. With an Octavia, you don't need a lift; the radiator comes out from the top, which is a bit fiddly, but that's also how it's described in the Elsa manual.
"But next time, I'll remove the camshaft carrier and leave the water pump and intercooler where they are. Tomorrow, I'll assemble the rest of the parts, and then it's off to get the coolant refilled."

Okay, I did it on a 1.4 TSI engine, and in that case, it only worked when going downwards.

Hi there!
In my case, it was still going up, and the stage was full.
I quickly topped it up again today, and now everything is working properly again.