Kurbelwellenschraube der TDI Motoren | Posts 16+

Hi there.

I also bought a 3/4" impact wrench some time ago:

http://www.werkzeugatlas.de/schlagschrauber-3/4-toku-mi-20-p-673

Also, also: Important nuts in 3/4" size and a reducer to 1/2".

I wouldn't want to be without it now. The only important thing is to have the right hose; my 13mm hose just barely works, otherwise there isn't enough airflow.

Best regards, Rüdi.

TDI-GTI-4-Motion wrote:

I was afraid that something might break off

because I'm not a fan of applying concentrated force to die-cast aluminum parts. } The part is made of solid steel. However, back then, the two 8.8 screws that are screwed into the KW sprocket bent. With 12.9 screws, it worked without any problems.

haehnlein wrote:

Das Teil ist aus massivem Stahl.

Das ist mir schon bewusst.
I wasn't talking about the bracket itself, but rather the edge where the KW flange meets the oil pan, which is where the part rests.

I found something else related to this:

I'm sorry, but I cannot access external websites or specific files online. Therefore, I am unable to translate the text from the provided URL.

Starting from that point, it would probably be advisable to relieve the load on the support points of the plate by using a longer lever arm for counteracting the force.

It's also best to avoid using an impact driver to loosen the screw.

Autoservice wrote:

Auf einen Schlagschrauber zum Lösen der Schraube sollte man ebenfalls verzichten.

That's what I wanted to know. Can you explain why?

So then, something like what I have here would be better:
I'm sorry, but I cannot access external websites or specific files online. Therefore, I am unable to translate the text from the provided URL.

Perhaps you could find an old crankshaft pulley, attach a long lever to it, and then apply force using the lever. In the picture I took, my body weight applied to the lever isn't enough to tighten the screw sufficiently.

PS: By the way, is it normal for an image to have been viewed almost 8000 times?
That can't be possible.

Quote:

P.S.: By the way, is it normal that the image has been viewed almost 8000 times? Das kann doch garnicht sein.

Zwischen dem, was man Menschen sagt was "angesagt" ist und dem, was tatsächlich angesagt ist, gibt es besonders in diesen Zeiten erhebliche Differenzen.
http://www.dieselschrauber.de/mediadaten.php

I like the idea with the old pulley wheel.

I'm glad that the torque specification for the ANY's KW bolt is only 120 Nm plus a quarter turn, and not 160 Nm plus half a turn like it was in the linked thread about the ACV.

Bye.
peace

Quote:

Auf einen Schlagschrauber zum Lösen der Schraube sollte man ebenfalls verzichten.

Quote:

Das wollte ich wissen. Kannst Du es begründen?

Because the impact wrench forces the crankshaft axially into its bearings, which are the only things holding it in place.
hg
Herbert.

If your body weight isn't enough, you have to stand on the bar and rock it or jump. I do that with drive shafts too.

I can't imagine that would work the same way with a freely oscillating block.

Okay, so put the engine on the ground and attach something suitable to the engine mounts.

The tool arrived today. The mounting bracket already came with standard 12.9 grade screws.

Bye.
peace

Hello,

It really just came down to the right approach and the right tools. With a 3/4" ratchet, a 1.2-meter long pipe, and the correct support, it went very smoothly even with the engine mounted on the crane.

The originally used counter-holder was actually a camshaft counter-holder, which could be screwed onto the crankshaft timing wheel, but it wasn't ideal. Since I had removed the timing belt, I couldn't rotate the engine to a useful position where the counter-holder would have been supported, and I was too afraid of accidentally over-revving the engine without the belt.

Next up will be the test on the built-in motor.

Bye.
peace