Caddy Bj 07 BLS AGR Error (Solution)

Hello! Today, I had the DPF (Diesel Particulate Filter) cleaned on my Caddy with a 105 HP BLS engine, which has 204,000 km (approximately 126,000 miles) on it. I also had the faulty EGR valve replaced at the same time.

Unfortunately, even with the new AGR valve, the exact same error is occurring .
The cables, connectors, and fuses appear to be okay. A test with VCDS shows no issues with the mass airflow sensor; it remains at 440-450 mgh at 1400 RPM in test mode.

Does anyone have a wiring diagram for troubleshooting the AGR (Abgasrückführung - exhaust gas recirculation system)?
Does anyone else experience this problem, even with a new EGR valve? The same error persists after clearing it, suggesting a possible cable break at a specific location?

Unfortunately, I forgot to make a scan of the error, grrr...

If you operate the BLS without the suction hose to the throttle body/EGR unit, you will clearly hear the EGR valve operating.

AAAAAA Shit... Sorry, "hörst" is a weird word right now.

You might even be able to feel it (especially with a subwoofer).
Okay, I'm ready. Please provide the German text you want me to translate.

m;

@ Kai: I have a private message for you .

Best regards,
Micha

Thank you, thank you very much! I'll start working on it on Monday or Tuesday!

@Dieselmartin: Laugh.... well, I can feel it . Or I can look with a dentist's mirror .

It's strange: When the connector is plugged into the new AGR, it switches on and off, goes into limp mode, the glow plug indicator flashes while the engine barely revs (no, it's not a fault from the brake light switch), and the MSTG light is also on.

Is the AGR connector disconnected? Only the MSTG lamp is illuminated, and the car is running normally .

When checking the mileage, also take a look at the NW (presumably a component or area) and see if the four sealing plugs of the PD waves are still present.

We had a vehicle here some time ago where the air mass dropped off as the engine speed increased.
Accordingly, the AGR was likely deactivated by the maintenance personnel.
In this case, the valve timing was so far advanced that the amount of air "per stroke" decreased as the engine speed increased. Surprisingly, you could barely hear anything.

The LMM (likely referring to a specific error code or system) was stored as an error.

Autoservice wrote:

When checking the KM (kilometer) reading, you should also take a look at the NW (Nordwesten - Northwest) and check if the four sealing plugs of the PD (Pressure Differential) waves are still present. We had a vehicle here some time ago where the air mass dropped off as the engine speed increased. Accordingly, the AGR was likely deactivated by the maintenance personnel. In this case, the valve timing was so far advanced that the amount of air "per stroke" decreased as the engine speed increased. Surprisingly, you could barely hear anything. As an error, the LMM was stored in memory.

Okay... I'll pay attention to the air mass during the test drive. Thanks for the tip.
"There are no errors related to the LLM, only AGR errors. Otherwise, there are no other errors in the memory."
The vehicle easily reaches its top speed when not in emergency mode.
With the AGR connector disconnected, everything runs smoothly, but the MSTG warning light is on.
If the NW (negative water flow) has stopped, shouldn't the AGR (Abgasrückführung - exhaust gas recirculation) system be causing problems? Or is it a lack of power when you're flooring it?

Quote:

If the NW (Abgasrückführung) is malfunctioning, wouldn't that cause problems? Or lack of power when using full throttle?

If I remember correctly, the AGR value was frozen at that time... but I don't remember the details exactly.

The vehicle started experiencing a lack of power above 2000 RPM because the valves were no longer opening sufficiently.

Once the plugs are removed, it's likely that the engine will suffer from a lack of power up to approximately 2000 RPM due to insufficient oil pressure or retracted hydraulic components.

I would personally like to take a look at that.


Okay, hier ist die Übersetzung:

"Edit: Title changed and moved."

... and?

What was it, then?

Greetings.
m;
The person who is always interested in BLS information

It's been postponed to next week. He's currently happy that the Caddy is running normally with the AGR connector disconnected, and he urgently needs the car this week.
Caddy easily reaches its top speed like that.

Okay, with this crazy hot weather, 34 degrees in Frankfurt, I went to the cool, underground garage, which was about 19 degrees, to troubleshoot something.

It was the cable that had oxidized between the motor and the body, near the transmission/starter, at the U-bend, the lowest point, where water had accumulated. Some of the cables had swollen insulation, which caused oxidation.
The affected pipes have now been repaired, and the AGR is working again. At the lowest point, I didn't put any electrical tape on it, so the water can drain out from there.

Thank you for the interesting feedback .

Okay,

Now, it seems my BLS has been affected too.

1. Removed the AGR valve. This was only possible after removing the valve *with* its AGR housing. The valve is located in a cone and cannot be rotated. Therefore, take everything out first, and then disassemble it.

2. The valve was tested on a different BLS (Brake Lever Simulator). In the "actuator diagnosis" function, it is only being driven at 30%. This corresponds to approximately 3mm of travel. But my EGR valve was on the other vehicle.

3. Still stuck on my BLS. No movement. However, if I "force" it, I get an error message in the motor control unit (ECU). Okay, sensor signal path is working, but there's a CABLE BREAK in the actuator.

... just like here in this thread ...

4. Further analysis... Where is it, and how can I fix it?

5. HERE, it's (photos...) green and brown/purple are the AGR (agricultural land), and the green probably indicates that it's fully cultivated.

6. I'm buying the car, even if it means taking on new debt. I need the car.

Right at this very same spot, that's where it happened with the Caddy .

Sure, here's the translation:

"Two more tips:"

The connector for the crankshaft sensor (G28) can be detached from below using two long screwdrivers.

The new wiring harness has one more connector... don't be alarmed and somehow put it away , otherwise it will rattle around on the turbo.

m;

ATTENTION:

The EGR valve comes in TWO versions, depending on the throttle body number - likely Continental vs. Pierburg.

The O-ring should be placed in the slot that requires the rectangular gasket to prevent oil leakage. After 500 km, everything is ruined.

m;