Adjust rear wheel bearings

Hello,

According to which criteria do you actually adjust the rear wheel bearings (e.g., Golf III, Passat, etc.)? According to the manual, the washer under the nut should only be movable with difficulty when pressure is applied to the screwdriver. In my experience, this adjustment method often results in the wheel bearing still having noticeable play (the wheel wobbles). Even if I tighten the nut further, so that I can only move the washer with leverage, the bearing still has some play. However, I always tighten the bearing while the wheel is rotating, so that it seats properly, and then loosen it again, etc. How do the professionals do it?

Thank you very much in advance .

Hi.

So, I didn't do anything differently than you did when I played golf.
It has proven to be the best approach that if the wheel bearing needs to be tightened repeatedly, it's better to replace it completely, and then you'll have peace and quiet for a loooooong time.

Hi André,

Yesterday, I replaced the rear brake discs on a Golf III and, of course, installed new bearings. Although I could hardly move the disc at all (with the screwdriver propping it up), a slight amount of play could still be detected afterward. This was also the case with my old Passat. Maybe a little bit of leeway is okay.

I once watched an experienced mechanic. He tightened the nut properly (to ensure the bearing/wheel is centered) and then loosened it again by half a turn... I, on the other hand, also always do the trick of slightly sliding the disc back and forth, but without levering it. Definitely don't press too hard, and make sure to use plenty of product.

Hello Christian,

Quote:

Maybe a little bit of play is okay

The rear wheel bearing MUST have some play! Otherwise, on your first long highway trip, it might break down due to overheating!

Best regards,
Albrecht.

Albrecht wrote:

The rear wheel bearing MUST have some play! Otherwise, the car is likely to break down on the first long highway trip due to overheating!

Hi Albrecht,

Okay, I just don't know how much play is allowed. When they check it at the TÜV (technical inspection), they just wiggle it by hand. I, however, assume that a small amount of is acceptable.

Hi,

A small amount of play can remain. Officially, the disc should be so easily rotatable that it can be moved WITHOUT using leverage (!). I haven't adhered to this with any of my previous VWs, because then the play would simply be too large. The procedure of turning, tightening, and then loosening seems to make the most sense to me. This leaves a residual play that is just barely noticeable. The market is already slightly down, and you're guaranteed to get upset about it.

The TÜV (German technical inspection authority) never raised any objections, and the only bearing that ever failed was the very first one installed at the factory, and that happened at 18,000 km.

Hi,

The topic about the wheel bearings fits perfectly with me *g*.
Two weeks ago, I replaced the rear window and bearings on my Seat Ibiza, and something very strange happened.

As someone who used to work with BMWs, and thankfully doesn't have to deal with things like that anymore, I used to tighten those.
'...until the pressure was almost zero. I think I might have added too much grease, because yesterday I noticed that it leaked out again through the thinner sealing ring, and a piece of it even got onto the glass.' So far, so good. Now, my question is:

Is it normal, or is it acceptable, for the grease from the Stahlgruber brand (ball bearing grease) to change from white or slightly yellow to a tar-black color within 2 days?
In my opinion, it's not just fat; it's more of a mixture of fat and oil.

After driving 110,000 kilometers, when I finally replaced the windshield wipers, everything inside was still relatively fresh, meaning the fluid was still a light, yellowish color.

Okay, one more question: How much fat overall, and where exactly does it go? Does it go into the yellow dust cover as well?


Sure, here's the translation:

'Thx' is a shortened form of 'thanks.' It's often used in informal online communication, such as text messages or social media posts.

Hi,

First, let's reiterate the specifications for the grease: Only a multi-purpose grease should be used. All other types are either not heat-resistant or pressure-resistant enough, or they are water-soluble. I haven't seen a white, multi-purpose grease before (though that doesn't necessarily mean it doesn't exist; I'm only familiar with it from mountain biking), and it might explain the degradation.

The amount is specified as half a dust cap full. However, the (new) bearing must already be well "massaged" with grease for this to work. It's important that the oil seal is properly seated, the dust cap is not deformed and also fits well, and that a brand new retaining clip is installed.

Hello Daniel,

If the grease turns black very quickly, a possible cause is insufficient clearance, which can lead to excessively high operating temperatures. Is the seal around the axle shaft in good condition?

Best regards, Rainer.

The wheel bearing seals are still okay. However, both bearings show no signs of wear. Do I still need to replace both of them now? They're not exactly cheap, and replacing two new wheel bearings is a pain. Work and time.

Theoretically, I should now remove everything, get rid of the old grease, verschandeln the bearings or replace them, and then reassemble everything with new grease.

I messed up a bit with the amount of fat. For me, it should be enough to fit almost two full caps on each side *lol*.

What advice can you give me to ensure I can drive this vehicle for the next approximately 100,000 kilometers without any major issues?

'Thank you.'

Hi,

I wouldn't change brands. You would also have to press out the bearing shells, and that would be too much work for me to do without being sure it's necessary.

If you haven't used a multi-purpose grease, I strongly recommend changing it. The words "multi-purpose grease" must be clearly printed on the tube/container; otherwise, there is a risk of bearing damage and, possibly, other issues. Brake problems.

The two caps were a bit too much ...

Have you also "processed" the inner storage area ? Don't forget.

Quote:

What advice can you give me to ensure I can drive this thing for the next approximately 100,000 km without any issues?

Do not want to get a break from playing through force.
"If the wheel has 2mm of play on the rim... whatever. I've never had to replace cone bearings before. On my trailer, after a long period of inactivity, there was some slight surface rust visible on the cone bearings. I noticed it when I pulled the trailer out of the garage. I tightened the bearing rings a little more (to rub off the rust), then drove 2km, took them out, washed them in gasoline, re-lubricated them with a lot of grease, and that was it. It's been working again for over 1.5 years and approximately 5000km." Yes, I know it's a makeshift solution. But it works, and on weekends, you often get bearings that don't fit very well.

Best regards, Rainer.

That sounds pretty good so far, I think. I'll take it apart again this weekend. The grease cartridge is just a 1.2 kg container of ball bearing grease, which I got from a Seat dealer. Hopefully, it's not too bad. *g*

I'll let you know soon how things are going with the inventory.

Thanks so much for all the helpful tips.

Roger wrote:

You would then also have to press out the bearing shells, and that would be too much work for me to do without knowing for sure.

Hi Roger,

Simply use a punch to remove the old bearings and tap the new ones in with the appropriate socket... it takes 10 minutes per side .

@Rainer: I haven't received a notification email again . It seems to be related to web.de .