Möglichkeiten zur Falscheinstellung bei PD's? | Posts 32+

Hi Ulf, it's best if you get the crankshaft locking tool and the dowel pin from Hazet and check everything carefully.

mersente wrote:

Hello Ulf, the best thing to do is to get the crankshaft stopper and the locating pin from Hazet and check it carefully.

Absolutely agree... I also bought this part... the next timing belt replacement is definitely coming.

mersente wrote:

Hello Ulf, the best thing to do is to get the crankshaft stopper and the locating pin from Hazet and check it carefully.

Hmm, I was actually hoping to avoid that much effort...

Does anyone here know if the crankshaft stop mechanism locks the engine, at least in the top dead center (TDC) position, or in some arbitrary position where the alignment pin hole fits correctly?

And what about that mysterious synchronization angle in VAGCOM data logging?
Does a value of zero indicate that the North-West corner is optimally adjusted to the kilowatt value, or does it simply mean that the signal sequence of the Hall sensor is optimally uniform and "in sync"?

For my 2000 AMF (1.4 TDI 3-cylinder) engine, you don't need to replace it.

Hello again,

According to a workshop manual with numerous instructions for timing belt replacement on various engines, which I had the opportunity to look at today, the crankshaft position corresponds to the top dead center (TDC) of cylinder 1.

So, I'm just going to rotate my engine forward to the TDC mark in the next few days and see (or try to see) if the alignment holes line up... for that, I don't need a (Hazet) tool set yet, and the crankshaft pulley and lower timing cover can remain mounted .

Hello Ulf, yes, that's right. You have determined the OT (top dead center) of the first cylinder relative to the flywheel, so you only need a dowel pin for the crankshaft, which has a diameter of exactly 6mm. Therefore, you only need a 6mm drill bit.

mersente wrote:

Hello Ulf, yes, that's right. You have determined the OT (top dead center) of the first cylinder at the flywheel, so you only need the dowel pin for the crankshaft, which has a diameter of exactly 6mm, so you only need a 6mm drill bit.

Okay, so I tried it out today (using three drill bits, from 4mm to 6mm).

Result: The ignition timing of my engine was incorrectly set by the factory, being 3° kW too late (when the ignition timing was disconnected, the engine, rotated forward, was already 3° past top dead center according to the timing mark on the flywheel).
I've corrected the setting.

Let's see if that makes a noticeable difference in performance and/or fuel consumption...

I've corrected the setting.

Let's see if that makes a noticeable difference in performance and/or fuel consumption.

133.9 horsepower?

Hi!
@Ulf: Have you checked the synchronization angle before and after using VagCom? Now, you were essentially your own "guinea pig" for our topic back then.


Best regards,
Sure, here is the translation of the text from German to English:

"Dirk"

brezelmann01 wrote:

@Ulf: Have you ever checked the synchronization angle before and after using VagCom?! Now, you were essentially your own "guinea pig" for our topic back then.

Hi Dirk,

Unfortunately, only "a little bit."

I only used VAGCOM once on the Polo, and it was without the correct label file.
I've looked through everything, but I don't remember the exact values of the various PD parameters that were new to me.
However, I didn't notice any significant value that could be the synchronization angle, so it's probably zero.

If I have some more time to use VAGCOM, I will definitely check it more thoroughly.


Initial results of the new hire:

Consumption essentially unchanged / possibly slightly lower (according to the individual trip average display).

But the engine feels a bit more responsive, and seems more willing to rev up when you floor it.
In the 3rd. "So far, the engine seemed a bit sluggish around 4000 rpm, which I attributed to the typical torque curve of a diesel engine."
It's not as noticeable now; it seems to run more smoothly from 2000 to 4000.

EDIT:
I just finished some rather discouraging DZR tests.
Result is now approximately 134 horsepower, previously approximately 132. . .

@ Julian: How did you know the result in advance ?

@ Julian: How did you know the result in advance ?

Hm, have I finally reached my professional mechanic status with this?

*dust blower*

Hello again,

I once tried using a dynamometer (DZR) to focus on recovering the approximately 2 horsepower that was missing from the engine at the factory, specifically in the range above 3400 rpm, which roughly corresponds to what my own subjective measurements indicated at the time.

To achieve this, I reduced the torque starting at 3400 rpm, which extended the time during which the engine produced 134 horsepower to match the value obtained at 132 horsepower with normal torque characteristics.

And suddenly, the performance curve looks much worse than the number "2 horsepower" initially suggests...

Interestingly, this aligns remarkably well with the results of a tuning test performed on several 96 kW TDIs.
"The series status is listed as:"

Quote:

. . . According to the Hopa dynamometer test, our test vehicle only has 121 horsepower instead of 130. Additionally, the torque drops at 3400 rpm.