Audi A4 B5 Suspension Upgrade Options

Hello everyone.


Can anyone provide me with torque specifications for the front and rear shock absorber nuts on an Audi A4?
Deliver a 2.5L TDI B5 from 1999.

Mounting brackets, hub carrier, shock absorber...



Regards,

Sepp.

The following torque specifications are from the Passat 3B; they should also be applicable to the A4.

* Upper strut mount bolt (two nuts, 13mm socket): 20 Nm (torque-to-yield, so replace).
[img]//files/federbein_vorn_oben.jpg[/img]

* Lower shock absorber mounting on the front, attaching to the lower control arm (screw and nut, size 1: 90 Nm (nut should be replaced) - Ensure correct weight distribution.
[img]//files/federbein_vorn_unten.jpg[/img]

* Bolt and nut for the two upper handlebars in the swivel bearing (both size SW 16, both need to be replaced, and it's best to apply copper grease to the bolt shank - if they haven't been removed before, you're in for a fun time taking them out): 40 Nm.
[img]//files/swivel_bearing_screw.jpg[/img]

Rear shock absorber upper mounting bolts: 45 Nm.
[img]//files/stossdaempfer_hinten_oben.jpg[/img]

* Rear lower shock absorber (bolt and nut, nut size 16mm with locking feature - replace, bolt is likely also 16mm - replace, adjust to vehicle's unloaded weight): 50 Nm + 90°.
[img]//files/stossdaempfer_hinten_unten.jpg[/img]

The rear only has a shock absorber on the 4WD models; the above information applies to a 2WD model (with separate damper and spring). Which one are we talking about here? I could also provide some pictures for a 2WD model.

Bye.
peace

Hello Pax.

Thank you for the description! javascript:emoticon('}')
Smile.

It's a 2-wheel drive vehicle. It has coil springs in the rear suspension.

What do you mean by 'manufacturing with a focus on low weight'?

Can you give me some tips for renovating a shed? I'm afraid none of them have ever been outside before.
Do I need to decommission this warehouse?

Regards,

Sepp.

"Zero-weight position" means that the axle must be positioned as if the unloaded vehicle is resting on the ground. A good measurement to use is the distance from the center of the wheel hub to the edge of the fender. Measure this distance before jacking up the vehicle, and then adjust it while tightening the corresponding screws or nuts. If you don't pay attention to this, you will twist the bearings and shorten their lifespan.

The swivel bearing or wheel bearing housing does not need to be removed; only the two upper handlebars need to be detached.
Regarding the screws: Mine were moderately difficult cases. I had one removed by a workshop, and for the other, I sprayed it repeatedly several times a week with rust remover and then twisted it back and forth with a long extension on the head until it came loose. Afterwards, I pulled the screw and nut out (inserting washers because the threads eventually stop).For the most stubborn cases, VW has a special puller or, more accurately, a pusher tool for this screw, but it's extremely expensive. There's also an aftermarket kit consisting of two pushers, each costing around 40 euros - buying the larger of the two should be sufficient. Otherwise, you're left with the dangerous and less recommended methods (heating with a torch, drilling, using a cutting disc, hammering forcefully), all of which have their own specific drawbacks.
I have added images for the rear shock absorber above, and finally I know how the forum's upload function works .

Bye.
peace

Hello Pax.


Where can I find these extenders?


Regards,

Sepp.

You can find the more expensive options at VW or KLANN, while the more affordable ones can be found, for example, on www.inox-schrauben.de.

Here is the large one, which should be sufficient. And this here shows the smaller one.

Bye.
peace

Thank you again for the information!


Regards,

Sepp.


javascript:emoticon('');
Very happy.

Try using a rust remover and tapping to get the screw out. It worked for me. Buying the tools for this can be a bit expensive, but you only need to do it once, and then you'll use grease. Now, after 2 years, I took the screws out again, and it was very easy. The first time, though, it required a little force.

The problem with hitting it is that you might damage things around the wheel bearing housing. Also, you could easily bend the protruding part along with the threads. This makes the screw even harder to remove in the end. I actually managed to do that myself, and then a workshop had to extract it for me.
"It's fine to knock it loose once it's already a bit loose, but I don't think constantly tapping at it to loosen it is very effective."

Bye.
peace

Quote:

Furthermore, you can file down the protruding part with the thread to make it crooked.

That's precisely why I also recommend the (original) specialized tool (similar to what was described above)!

But before pressing it out, screw the nut onto the threads of the bolt by about 50-75%. This should prevent the bolt from bending.

Despite everything, rust remover should not be used sparingly.

Quote:

(original) specialized tool

Yes... unfortunately, I don't remember the exact price anymore, but I think it was around 250 euros for the original. You can definitely try some creative things with that.

Bye.
peace

EDIT: http://www.klann-online.de/Produkte/Kapitel_2_low.pdf, on page 16, you can admire the original expression.

pax wrote:

"Furthermore, you can damage the protruding part with the threads by hitting it crookedly. This ultimately makes it even harder to remove the screw." 2) That's what happened to the screw, which a workshop then had to remove for me.

"There's a good chance this will work on yours too (mine was 3 years old at the time). Try tapping it, then tap it back, remove any threads with an angle grinder, and drive out the bolt. This worked perfectly for me. If it moves back and forth about 5mm, and you constantly spray rust remover and use a wire brush (verschandeln the visible parts of the bolt, use a small wire brush, otherwise you'll damage the seal), it will eventually come out."
"If there's a risk involved, you should have the bolt replaced at the workshop right away. That should be cheaper than buying a new one."

Then take them out again, complete the task, verschandeln them thoroughly, and grease them before putting them away. That way, you won't have any problems next time.

I thought the price was above EUR 300.00; a friend of mine once considered buying one. However, he ended up using my method .

I tried using rust remover for a long time, and then I bought the tools from Inox-Schrauben. Nothing moved at all. Finally, the wheel bearing housings were bent, so I had to buy new ones; you have to treat yourself sometimes. Maybe the VAG part is actually better in this case.
Some people have done that before, but I didn't want to do that with a suspension part.
I later sawed it apart in the basement. No amount of rust remover would have penetrated that much rust in 5 years.