Clutch pedal squeak

Hello everyone,

It started about 8 weeks ago when I heard a slight squeaking while disengaging the clutch, and when I was stopped and pressing the clutch pedal, I felt a slight grinding sensation – it was very subtle, but noticeable.

It then got progressively worse, until about five weeks ago, when the clutch started to become difficult to engage, and with increasing heat, the pedal even started to stick slightly and make a loud creaking noise.

That was enough for me, so I went to Seat because I was worried that the clutch itself or the clutch cable might be faulty, or that it wasn't properly lubricated. The mechanic said that was a known issue, that it was the clutch switch, and that a quick spray with a lubricant like that would fix it. He crawled underneath, did something, came back out, and said that it's the pedal linkage, not the switch.

I couldn't have imagined that a switch could make such a loud creaking noise.

After that, about four weeks ago, I left the car there for a day, and they lubricated the bearing for the clutch pedal. Result: Everything is fine.

Now, four weeks and maybe 700 kilometers have passed, and the whole thing is starting all over again. I think it will probably get annoying again in about two weeks.

What do you think about it?

- Did Seat forget to lubricate the pedal during manufacturing, causing it to become damaged, and as a result, subsequent lubrication only provides limited improvement?

- Do these parts generally have a weakness in this area?

- Are you too dumb to work in this workshop?

Best regards,

Jan.

(See data below; the car now has exactly 8002 kilometers on the odometer.)

Hello Jan,

I know the problem. Unfortunately, that's not something that can be fixed.
solve.
The cylinder is coated on the inside. She has...
It probably happened to you as well. You've already described the consequences.
The only thing that helps is this:
Exchange.

Hi Jan and Michael,

. . . that the TDIs have a hydraulically actuated clutch (connected to the braking system) and not a cable, as Jan wrote.

@Michael: If you're familiar with this problem: based on experience, is it usually the supply cylinder or the receiving cylinder that causes the issue?

Hello Ulf,

For me, it was the fuel injector back then.

Hi Michael, hi Ulf,

"I wasn't aware of the hydraulic system... I was just thinking about transferring the clutch cable from my old 60 horsepower Polo , but that's probably undersized for a TDI clutch."

So, you're saying the real problem is the hydraulic cylinders, not the pedal bearing? The fact is that, at least for a short time, the lubrication by the workshop did improve things. It's still better than it was before the repair, but the situation is trending towards getting worse again.

When did it break down for you, Michael? My car has only 8000 km on the odometer, and the problem first appeared around 7000 km, when the car was not even five months old.

Best regards,

Jan.

Hello Jan,

Back then, when my car was under warranty (at around 10,000 km), the workshop applied grease to all sorts of places, but it didn't help at all.

Hi Michael,

Well... for me, at least, applying ointment provided some relief, even if only temporarily. Isn't that almost an indication that it might be something else entirely?

Can you imagine an explanation that would account for this effect in the error I described?

How is this bottom bracket constructed? Could that be the cause of the problem, or is the workshop's comment just a guess?

You don't just hear the "creaking" sound; you can also feel it when you press the pedal.

Best regards,

Jan.

Hi!

It sounds like the cylinders might be worn or defective if you feel that "thump" when you operate it. I would recommend taking it to a workshop, as you still have a warranty. That should be their problem to permanently fix this defect, however it may occur.

Best regards,
Uwe

"... that it's their problem, but I want them to solve it in ONE more attempt, and not start all over again because something went wrong." And that's why I want to understand how all of this works, so that I don't appear ignorant, or, more specifically, so that I can clearly state what I expect.

I'm afraid that if there's any criticism, they'll simply replace the pedal and/or its bearings, which of course won't solve the underlying problem.

Here's another question for everyone: The hydraulic fluid used for the clutch, is that a separate system, or is it connected to the brake system? Yes, leaks can cause brake fluid to be lost over the long term.

Best regards,

Jan.

Hello Jan,

The hydraulic fluid for the clutch comes from the braking system.

I also experienced the same problem with the AMF after just a few kilometers. I tried to ignore it and pushed through for a few months. But eventually, after about 10,000 kilometers, the problem disappeared, and it hasn't come back since (now at 70,000 kilometers). If you still have some time left on your warranty, I would definitely recommend taking it in and getting it checked. To my knowledge, significant consequential damages are unlikely to occur in this case.

Regards,

Olaf.

If it were just the creaking, I could probably live with it, but it's going to get so bad again (it looks like it already is) that it's even interfering with the clutch, because the pedal "jams" a bit, which isn't exactly helpful when starting. Therefore, an exchange seems like a good idea.

By the way... does anyone know if a repair shop is obligated to provide a loaner car if they fail to complete a repair on the first attempt, and you have to leave your car there again?

Otherwise, they are very strict, especially when it comes to warranty issues; rental cars are only provided if you are stranded.

Best regards,

Jan.

I've always been offered a rental car due to every little issue, and I only have a tiny Lupo. At first, I thought they only offered rentals if you went to Audi, where I might have some connections, but VW offers rental cars just as much, despite what I was told. However, I haven't always taken advantage of it; sometimes, the train is a viable alternative. I don't know how Seat handles it, because they've even refused to order spare parts for me when they heard I have a Lupo, even though I told them that the parts are guaranteed to be the same as those for the Arosa. I have a Seat dealership right next door. I have to admit that I usually go to a trusted independent workshop when I've already identified the problem myself and the warranty has expired, or... The goodwill offered by VW is more expensive than paying for everything myself at another workshop.
If the pedal is sticking, I would definitely take action and go to the dealer; it really shouldn't happen.