Properly tightening the KW central screw in the AKE?

Hello

Since I need to convert the crankshaft in an AKE, here's my question:

The central screw of the crankshaft gets 200Nm + 180°
The ZMS screws should be tightened to 60Nm + 90°.

How should I secure the crankshaft? While I have the timing tool for changing the timing belt, it never seems to hold properly.

Does anyone happen to know how it should be done according to Audi's specifications/RLF?

ZMS with gearbox screw and screwdriver block - 2. Man?
A central screw has a holder with a very large pipe in the shock absorber. At least, I welded one like that for the AAB T4.

The engine has been removed, I forgot to mention that.
Vibration dampers, there's a really thick one on the T4, right. However, this is not the case with AKE.

Then I can only imagine the interlocking mechanism as a countermeasure, I already saw a metal part with teeth and a hole for the screw.

A better strategy would be to counter the force where it originates. The KW will definitely handle the 450 Nm!

teileklaus wrote:

Then I can only imagine the "trigger interlocking" as a countermeasure, as I have already seen a metal part with teeth and a hole for the screw.

Sounds good. Do you happen to have an address or phone number for?

teileklaus wrote:

But the KW will definitely handle 450 NM!

Believe me, Klausi, that's much more, a lot more.

Don't use a number, I'll go to my friendly mechanic and he'll give me and I'll give him and that's it, it's not worth buying for one time.
1,50 m x 50kg equates to approximately 750 Nm , so that's good.

teileklaus wrote:

It's not worth buying for just once.

I don't want to either. DIY (or having someone else do it), but I'd really like to see it first, at least a picture.

Sauer 608 8760 or 608 8770, but there is no MBK listed

Thank you. Shouldn't be a problem for Grobschmied around the corner.

Quote:

The engine has been removed

Don't mess it up and reassemble the engine properly to securely fasten the screw.
It won't work if the engine isn't secure.

Okay, I will complete everything, install the engine, and then tighten it securely, if necessary, using a torque wrench beforehand, and then re-tighten it by 180 * degrees after installation.

Okay, but I will tighten the screws from the ZMS first. Is in good condition when the gearbox is attached, otherwise it's always bad.

@Red: You nasty little brat, you ruined our monologue.

However, it's best to do it properly, what good is your engine if you injure yourself while tightening it?

teileklaus wrote:

But in your best interest, what good is your engine if you get something bad going on with your body?

Okay, it's fine, it was just a joke with Red.

The repair guide also identifies the fixing screw as a locking mechanism.
450 NM is no problem for the KW, a tuned AKE can easily handle that, which means the KW can withstand significantly more under static conditions.

So, the thorn should hold, right?