Throttle Body Golf 4 AKQ 1.4 16V

Hello!

I have the car above at the repair shop. It has 190,000 kilometers on it. I bought it from an acquaintance who is currently experiencing some financial difficulties.

So, the Golf doesn't idle; it only starts when you press the accelerator.

There is only one error entry in the motor controller.
"Throttle valve adjuster, initial position: open."
I've now removed the engine covers and taken a closer look.
I checked the connector, and it looks clean, like new. I didn't see any obvious cable damage at first glance.


Normally, I would just replace that part, hoping that it would then work again.

However, the friendly service employee at the friendly workshop told me the price.
meant that these parts often break.
Upon my inquiry, I was also informed that if the part is installed new, it also needs to be calibrated.

Partial returns are not possible, as this is an electrical component.

Okay, that's a load of crap, I don't feel like wasting 300 euros on something pointless either.
Can someone please write something about that for me?

Experiences on how to test and learn about this component.
or would it be better to leave it to the Werkatatt department?

Hello.

I experienced the same problem within my network of contacts, although it presented with a different error message. I believe it was something about a "short circuit in the actuator motor, occurring sporadically." The symptoms were the same.

Since it's a Pierburg part, I was able to get it on the open market for €220. I installed it, calibrated it, and it worked.


The calibration process essentially involves just turning on the ignition and waiting. The start and end positions of the potentiometers are read and saved. So, you don't need to do anything. The Golf has been running without any problems since then.

Best regards,

Hi,
Learning the throttle valve is a piece of cake with VCDS. It usually works with the default settings. Most of the time, you can also find it directly in the "documented functions" menu.
See /viewtopic.php?t=20516.
It will be done quickly.
You can also find the throttle body at your usual large supplier in Z. They carry brands like Pierburg, VDO, and Vemo, usually at about 2/3 the price of the "original" part. However, just like elsewhere, you can't test the parts there. The pins on these parts are examined, among other things, if they were inserted during a possible return.
Also, if you happen to be looking at this engine, you might also want to read the thread about it: /viewtopic.php?t=21957

Hello,

I had the same issue with a 1.4 engine... but here are a few tips, especially if you're already planning to modify the DroKla (presumably a component or system).

"Always renew the gasket! It doesn't cost the world. I have one left over from a 1.4 16V AUA engine, it's a metal gasket. I'll check later to see if it's the same type. If it is, I can send it to you, and it won't cost you anything."

When the throttle body is removed, be sure to also remove the flange underneath it, which requires unscrewing the EGR pipe. Then, carefully clean the opening that connects to the EGR pipe. It's often narrowed to about 1/10 of its original diameter, which can eventually lead to EGR errors and a lot of troubleshooting...

Personally, I would first remove the throttle body, clean it, and test it without installing a new gasket (because the gasket has ridges that will get flattened when tightened!). Then, I would use VCDS to adapt it (this is necessary; simply turning the ignition on and waiting might work, but it's not guaranteed!). I would also adapt the EGR valve at the same time and then test the system.

If nothing else works, your only option is to replace the part. However, instead of buying it directly from the manufacturer, opt for a Pierburg replacement part from a regular retailer; it's the same part, but cheaper.

Hello!

You are all so kind to me .

I removed the throttle body unit today.
Checked all the fuses again.
and ordered a new part from company P*.
It's significantly cheaper than buying from the official dealer. It's also a "very common" replacement part.
Apparently, poetry is also supposed to be included.
The AGR pipe looks quite good, it's not clogged at all, so I don't see any immediate need for action.

Well, first of all, I'd like to thank you for your effort and help.
I hope to be able to write a success story on Tuesday.

Steffen G wrote:

"very common" replacement part.

That's also the case, not just with this high-quality engine. And what Georg wrote is also true: you need to calibrate the new unit. Simply plugging it in usually doesn't work. Otherwise, it might give you an error message like: "Throttle valve adjustment not performed." And the engine still won't run properly. Even today, there are (even professional) customers who try to return these parts because they skipped the initial calibration, for whatever reason. And then they get angry and threaten to "never buy anything from you again" if that "return" is rejected.
During the initial setup, you'll briefly hear the component humming. Then, if successful, VCDS will display "Status io," and the system will start working. That's all there is to it.

If not, the next step is to test the wiring of the MSG throttle body unit.
Just a little joke I couldn't resist. It's probably the throttle, as usual.

Hi!

Okay, I'm happy to announce that everything went perfectly.
Thank you for your help.

One last question:
I have a few older Caddy vans that I maintain, with 1.6 gasoline engines, and they also have a similar throttle body.
While the throttle valves themselves work, there have consistently been problems with the idle speed and stalling when starting the engine, and this has been going on for years.

To be honest, I never really managed to do it right either.
Would it also be advisable to perform a basic adjustment in that case?