Rear Brake Caliper: Sticking Handbrake Mechanism

Dear DIY enthusiasts,

"My rear left wheel gets hot after a long ride. The cause was quickly identified: The handbrake return mechanism is sticking. I recently replaced the caliper mounting bolts, and the piston return was easy at that time. As a temporary solution, I moved the mechanism back and forth a few times and sprayed some WD40 under the rubber boot (oil seal). This won't last long. That's why my question: Should I replace both brake calipers, including the connection lines/hoses (they're already 13 years old)? The bracket for the brake cable is screwed onto the shaft with a nut. Would it be worth unscrewing it and then greasing the shaft? Does the handbrake cable need to be readjusted after replacing the brake calipers?"

Quote:

The bracket for the brake cable is screwed onto the shaft using a nut. Is it worth unscrewing it and then greasing the shaft? Does the handbrake cable need to be readjusted after replacing the brake calipers?

"Unfortunately, this only provides a temporary solution. To ensure the saddle or shaft operates smoothly in the long term, you need to completely disassemble it, clean it, lubricate it, etc., and possibly replace the seals."
Whether the effort is worthwhile is questionable. There are plenty of offers available on the open market, for example from FTE.

However, it is not necessary to replace both saddles at the same time.

Autoservice wrote:

There are enough offers available on the open market, for example, from FTE. However, it is not always necessary to replace both saddles at the same time.

Hello,

What do you think about the Mapco and ATP automotive parts brands? Are they any good? At least with them, you don't have to return the old parts. I'll probably replace both calipers since I'm already doing one. The other side wasn't quite as smooth either, before I had to turn it several times.

Quote:

What do you actually think of the house brands of the companies Mapco and ATP Autoteile?

...it depends on which brand is inside the packaging. Why don't you check with your local parts dealer for a suitable replacement part in acceptable quality?

You can also find what you're looking for here: http://www.daparto.de/Bremssattel/VW-Golf-IV-1J/2-2180-1527?page=3

You can also install TRW parts without any worries.

Hello!

Years ago, about 15 years ago, I used to repair Girling-38 brake calipers (used in cars like the Golf 2 and Corrado), both for my own use and, to some extent, in a near-production run for friends and acquaintances.
It wasn't easy; I had to build some specialized tools myself, including a lathe for making casings, and I had to source the corresponding spare parts.

Back then, a brake caliper would have cost a few hundred German marks.
But eventually, the time came when AT saddles were available for such a low price that the work involved was no longer worth it.

That is probably still the case now.

haehnlein wrote:

...Mapco and ATP automotive parts

. I've had one of these ATP saddles in the back for a few years. Since then, the uneven rear brake performance has been repeatedly flagged during the technical inspection (TÜV). I haven't been able to adjust it to be better.

Otherwise, do some research on Google about ATP, part quality, and warranty processing.

Bye.
peace

Out of necessity (because ATP was nearby), a replacement seat from ATP was installed in my parents' Golf 4 Variant. A part from ATEC was included in the box. It was installed and worked perfectly for about a year. Afterwards, brake fluid started leaking from the handbrake shaft.
I then chose TRW.

Dear DIY enthusiasts,

It's done. I got two TRW brake calipers in exchange (about 70€ each) and at the same time replaced the brake hoses and brake lines. The old hoses were so stiff that you could almost call them lines. The right nut on the brake line, where it connects to the brake hose at the rear axle, was very tight. But with a lot of WD40 and tapping, it eventually came loose without significantly twisting the line.

In order to prevent the brake fluid from leaking out, I kept the brake pedal pressed down continuously using a board (which closes the return bore in the master cylinder). To bleed the brakes, I connected a bleeding device with 2 bar of overpressure. When I then tried to access the ABS module (03-Brake -> Basic settings) and couldn't find the correct channel for it, the master mechanic from the rental workshop put his hands to his head in frustration. We then bled the brakes, as is customary for decades, using the foot method with two people. He said that this is the standard procedure in their workshop for all cars. I always thought that this could damage the master cylinder if there is rust on the piston, which could then be pushed through the seal . In any case, everything is fine again. Incidentally, the handbrake does not need to be adjusted.

pax wrote:

Otherwise, just do a Google search for ATP, part quality, and warranty processing.

Hopefully, this doesn't apply to parts of ATE that you can also buy from them. Or are there also different qualities from the premium manufacturers?

Steffen G wrote:

Previously, about 15 years ago, I repaired Girling-38 calipers (used in Golf 2, Corrado, etc.) for myself, and sometimes even almost in a series production for acquaintances and friends. It wasn't entirely easy; I had to build some specialized tools myself, including a lathe for turning casings, and I had to source the corresponding spare parts.

I once did this on my first Passat (built in 1985). I removed the seat (front), put a bucket underneath, and used the brake pedal to push the piston out. If I remember correctly, the installation didn't require any special tools. It was just a bit fiddly to get the boot in place correctly. The new piston could be easily installed with a clamp after being well-greased. It was important not to let the piston get stuck during installation, but that was easily achievable with a bit of feel. However, with the current prices for a replacement seat, I probably wouldn't do that anymore.

Quote:

By the way, the handbrake also doesn't need to be adjusted.

Rear brake adjustment:
After assembly, repeatedly engage the foot brake until the pads make contact.
Both levers for the handbrake must be pressed firmly against their stops. If one lever can be pressed all the way in, and the other then lifts up, the handbrake cable is too tight. If both levers are loose at their stops, the cable is too loose.
Only after this initial adjustment should you apply the handbrake for the first time, thereby setting the automatic adjustment mechanism.
hg
Herbert.

Herbert wrote:

Basic rear brake adjustment: After assembly, repeatedly engage the foot brake until the pads make contact. Both levers for the handbrake must be pressed firmly against their stops. If one lever can be pressed all the way in, and the other then lifts up, the handbrake cable is too tight. If both levers are loose at their stops, the cable is too loose. Only after this initial adjustment should the handbrake be engaged for the first time, thereby setting the automatic adjustment mechanism.

Hello Herbert,

Thank you for the valuable addition. I always do this anyway: after completing work on the brakes, the brake pedal (with the engine running) is pressed and held several times. This is because when bleeding the brakes, it's not guaranteed that all the pistons in the brake cylinders will reach their "operating position." Only then do I engage the handbrake several times. According to Etzold, the clearance between the handbrake lever and the housing should be a maximum of 1.5 mm. In my case, it was approximately 1.0 mm on both sides, and both wheels could turn freely without resistance.

haehnlein wrote:

Hopefully, this doesn't apply to parts of ATE, which you can also buy from them.

From my perception, the quality of the parts is mainly criticized for the house brands or cheap items. However, the support is probably independent of the parts manufacturer. In that case, you might have to send in your automotive master certificate to prove your installation qualifications, if you believe the reviews.

Bye.
peace