Engine not consuming oil - Ford 1.3L, 1996, oil level ok

Hello everyone,

I have a 1996 Ford Fiesta with a 1.3L engine. It's only used for go-karting now and is worth €50. If solving the following problem proves to be too complex and time-consuming, it will be scrapped and replaced with another one.

Okay, here's the translation:

Now, regarding the problem: The engine oil level is fine, but the oil pressure warning light is on. After removing the valve cover, there is no oil reaching that area, even when the engine is running briefly at higher RPMs. I therefore assume that the oil pressure warning light is lit correctly.

Here are some ideas I have about that:
Oil pump failure.
According to my online research, failing oil pumps are extremely rare, so I find it hard to believe.

Oil filter leak.
There should actually be a bypass valve for this, so that the flow would still be maintained.

Oil pump suction blocked.
I can't think of anything that could suddenly have gotten into the oil, or that could be blocking the pump.

I'm now considering, as a simple precaution, to replace the oil filter anyway. Do you have any other ideas for repair attempts that require minimal effort?

Best regards,
Guste.

Since I don't know much about Ford...

Measure the oil pressure. There has to be a sensor somewhere; I need to take it out and test it with an alternative measuring device.

There are several possibilities to consider. Depending on the history of a vehicle in such "poor condition," I wouldn't rule out a clogged filter. If an oil change was done within the last 15 years, and the vehicle has been sitting for a long time, all that sludge is now starting to circulate.

If the oil pressure is too low, I would first look for consequential damage, such as debris in the oil/oil filter. Can you detect oil sludge that would indicate that the oil has not been changed regularly? That, in turn, would be a...
Note: The oil filter screen may be clogged.

Hi,

Quote:

Do you have any other ideas for repair attempts that require minimal effort?

Remove the oil filter, position a suitable container underneath, and briefly engage the starter motor. Nothing is happening: The oil pump is not being driven, or the oil suction pipe has come loose from the oil pan, etc.

Best regards, Rainer.

Thank you for your practical suggestions.

I'm going to start with Rainer's brutally effective method:

Quote:

Remove the oil filter, place a suitable container underneath, and briefly engage the starter motor. Nothing is happening: The oil pump is not being driven, or the oil suction pipe has come loose from the oil pan, etc.

If nothing comes up, I'll have to consider whether I want to remove the tub myself or if it will simply be replaced after it eventually fails.

vag-driver: Sedimentation is not something you can see under the oil filler cap.

Quote:

If the oil pressure is too low, I would first look for consequential damage, such as metal shavings in the oil/oil filter.

I will examine the filter after removing it. Basically, however, any consequential damage is irrelevant. The remaining lifespan of the vehicle is likely to be 10-20 hours. Whether the engine is now damaged is secondary. Any repair should take no more than one hour.

Matthias: That's right. The vehicle had been sitting for a year, and its maintenance history is unknown. Then it was purchased for 50 euros and driven roughly across a field for 1-2 hours, pushing it close to the redline. It's quite possible that some old grime has come loose.

Moreover, the (electric) heating valve is defective, causing the car to always heat to its maximum setting. I suspect that the engine was not running at its optimal temperature by the previous owner.


I've already checked one more thing: The oil pan still looks straight. I was hoping it might be touching the ground and potentially preventing any more oil from being sucked up. The tub is made of aluminum, and it doesn't appear to be obviously warped.

Hello....


Another possibility: The pressure relief valve on the oil pump is stuck in the open position; it could be that dissolved debris has become lodged in it. The valve was probably open during your last "high-speed frenzy" and may not have closed completely.


Regards, Mpire.

There was even a recall for the Transit.
Those great new impeller pumps, which were known to sometimes fail within the warranty period and damage the motors, should be replaced with proven gear pumps.

However, it wasn't always done (and often with limited "success").

Grandpa Lothar.

"In the past, after replacing a head gasket, we would flush the dirty engine."

Candles out.
Ignition distributor disconnected.

1/2 liter of oil + 2 liters of diesel into the engine.
To stall the engine.

leave it.

go crazy again

release, a lot of dirt comes out.
Then, for now, just do an oil change with cheap oil.


Okay, here's the translation:

Then, let's do the "Rainertest" again.

Good luck.

Grandpa Lothar.

After the initial warm-up, perform an oil change to remove any remaining diesel fuel from the system.

Thank you for the additional tips.

I only changed the oil filter back then. I didn't dare to use the starter, as the change was happening on the lawn, and I didn't want to cause any environmental damage.
I skipped removing the oil pan and performing further inspections.

The condition remains unchanged, and I've decided not to invest any more time or effort. Since then, the car has been driven for about 2 hours. However, it was only driven by my kids, and they were carrying very little weight, just on the grass. I will probably report in the fall on how long it lasted in that condition.

Regards,
Guste.

It's amazing how long some engines can run without oil (pressure).