Clutch Pedal Problems: Causes & Solutions

... engine installation.

As mentioned before, my Audi A4 had an oil leak. I removed the engine and installed a new sealing flange with a new crankshaft seal. It's sealed now. Yesterday morning, I also installed the new clutch. I put the engine back in, and except for the coolant hoses, it's all back together. Earlier today, I tried to move the car from one garage to another due to space constraints, but unfortunately, the clutch pedal went limp. I didn't have this problem when I replaced the engine in another A4 about two weeks ago. I also noticed that the brake fluid reservoir was empty. Everything seems to be assembled correctly, but now I'm wondering if simply bleeding the clutch hydraulics will fix the problem, or if there's a more serious issue. Is there a trick to bleed the clutch hydraulics without much effort and ideally without needing help?

. Now, I also noticed that the brake fluid reservoir was empty. Assembled, everything should be fine. Will bleeding the clutch hydraulics be enough, or do I have a more serious problem? Is there a trick to bleed the clutch hydraulics without much effort and ideally without needing help?

Bremsfluid auffüllen, Druckfüllgerät auf Ausgleichsbehälter aufschrauben und dann die Kupplung mehrmals bis zur Hälfte durchtreten, bis sie schwerer geht. Danach die Bremsen alle entlüften. Und eIt should work...

But you surely know that too, given your level of knowledge, right?

'Hey, I just don't have something like that.'

What makes me suspicious is that there was absolutely no resistance at all until it was fully engaged... and especially, why wasn't it like that in the other car?!

Okay, then fill it up and bleed the brakes using the brake pedal.

I have no idea where you're moving the air bubble in this car, and not in the other.
Normally, when the expansion tank is empty, the clutch is also 'disengaged' or 'not engaged.'

Hmmmm... I have no idea.

I once searched on egedöns...
Should that work for home use, too?
http://cgi.ebay.de/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=30922&item=7944730389
or would you prefer the ?
http://cgi.ebay.de/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=9895&item=7944999636&rd=1

I would tend to go with the first option, as it looks more robust and seems like it would allow for more pressure to be applied. However, I'm not familiar with either manufacturer.

What, in your opinion, is still missing in the low-cost segment?

Or perhaps like this: At the junkyard, remove the lid from the storage container, insert the tire valve, and connect the compressor to the pressure regulator, setting it to, say, 2 or 4 bar of pressure.

Hmm, I don't know, I'm just saying that I'm not saying the above offers are bad.

I'm only familiar with pressure-filling devices that are screwed onto the open expansion tank, where you apply approximately 1 bar of pressure to the system and then bleed all the system components.
If the fluid level is low, it will be automatically refilled by a float.

Considering the low cost of the equipment, I don't think it's worthwhile to build something yourself.

Yeah!!! The clutch now has pressure again... I wouldn't have thought it was air.

Congratulations!

I recall an old method: Connect the bleed screw of the front left brake caliper to the bleed screw of the clutch cylinder on the transmission side with a suitable hose, open both bleed screws, and use the brake pedal to fill the clutch hydraulics in reverse. This used to work well, but only on vehicles with a shared reservoir for the brakes and clutch; otherwise, you had to be careful that the brake reservoir didn't run empty.
'It won't overflow into the clutch. I haven't done that in ages, but the hose is still hanging on the wall in my workshop!'

For informational purposes: In standard VAG vehicles, the clutch and brake systems typically share the same reservoir. Or is that not the case? Otherwise, how would pressing down from above work, since it's connected to the brake fluid reservoir?

@jürgen

Okay, thanks! I just wanted to be safe and let the bleeding happen through the brake system! I had problems with that before on my 35i.

@matthias
Okay, so the VWs and Audis that I've had so far definitely had a common reservoir.

@all
I've mostly managed to put the thing back together. There are still a few minor coolant leaks, but I'll get those sorted out too. However, I've noticed that the new clutch makes a metallic, high-pitched clicking sound when I press it, or when the car is moving. It was also making that sound when I first started the engine, even with the clutch disengaged. But it disappeared after a while. What could that be? Will it go away on its own, or do I need to apply more force and take everything apart again?

joergs wrote:

or perhaps like this: at the junkyard, take the lid off the storage container, and insert the tire valve.

That's how I did it. It costs €1.50 and it works great!

Too late! But this venting thingy works great! You can also switch it to negative pressure. You don't have to play doctor when you're tinkering with VTG equipment.



The clicking noise is also gone (probably due to the new clutch), and the A4 is still sputtering, much to the dismay of the sensitive neighbors... but I don't care. I rarely smell the fast-food restaurant.