Bremsentuning? | Posts 120+

Okay, let me help you with this... The SBC braking system from the W211 (also found in the CLS, SL, and in a different form in the Maybach) is no longer used in the current E-Class. Instead, it features a conventional braking system with some nice additions, such as the "Auto-Hold" function (which is actually quite common). Did the SBC DI model, after being the subject of the largest recall in history, cease production in large quantities?

matthiasTDI96 wrote:

Now, please help me with this... The SBC brake system from the W211 (also found in the CLS and SL, and in a different form in the Maybach) is no longer used in the current E-Class. Instead, it has a conventional braking system with some features, such as the auto-hold function (which is actually quite common). The SBC DI itself, after the largest recall campaign in history, was discontinued from mass production, right?

I haven't seen the brand new E-Class yet. Definitely includes: S-Class (W221) model 2008, SL (R230) model 2009.

Regarding the W211: One of my customers has an S211 (the wagon version of the W211), with SBC (Sensors Brake Control) and has driven over 200,000 km without any issues.

Install the EBC Green Stuff pads on the rear, and I assume the rear rotors will also be clean .

matthiasTDI96 wrote:

Now, please help me with this... The SBC brake system from the W211 (also found in the CLS and SL, and in a different form in the Maybach) is no longer used in the current E-Class. Instead, it has a conventional braking system with some features, such as the auto-hold function (which is actually quite common). The SBC DI itself, after the largest recall campaign in history, was discontinued from mass production, right?

The SBC (Steering and Braking Control) was even removed from the MOPF (Modellpflege) version of the W211 series.
For the first time, in this case with a Mercedes-Benz undergoing a major overhaul, the body had to be changed.

Okay.
We drove fully loaded to Liguria and often had to brake on the San Bernardino pass and the following hills. While the rear ATE brake discs are slightly less rusty, they still don't look like the previously installed OEM discs, which were completely verschandeln and shiny all the way to the outer edge. Hmm, so it seems things won't actually get better, even when fully loaded or driving uphill!
Could this be related to the ATE Powerdisc brake rotors that were recently installed on the front? If they actually provide better braking performance than the original equipment (OEM) rotors on the rear, then the rear brakes should also be working harder (during straight-line driving and braking). Additionally, the rear rotor on the left side isn't perfectly flat. This is noticeable when the windows are open and driving past stone walls, as the brake pad scraping is uneven. Overall, I'm not convinced about the rear ATE rotors. The front ones, on the other hand, are excellent. The grooved brake pads offer better stopping power in wet conditions, but they can produce more noise during longer braking periods (e.g., when exiting a highway) and at higher brake disc temperatures.
I am unable to translate "haithamina" because it does not appear to be a word or phrase in the German language. It may be a misspelling, a proper noun, or a term from a specialized field. If you can provide more context or clarify the intended meaning, I would be happy to assist you with the translation.

According to my experience, brutal braking and erratic driving do not compensate for a bad brake.

The floating pins on Passi brakes often get stuck due to corrosion (is that what they're called?).
"So, those are the bolts that you hold with the 14mm wrench while you unscrew the 13mm screws from the saddle." These are protected by a cuff and should automatically return to their original position.
Do the rear brake calipers on the Passat tend to seize up like those on the A3?
I had to verschandeln mine every year to ensure they worked properly.

Tagessuppe wrote:

In my experience, brutal braking and erratic driving will not compensate for a bad brake. The floating pins on Passi brakes often get stuck due to corrosion (is that what they're called?). So, those bolts

that you hold with the 14mm wrench when you unscrew the 13mm screws from the saddle.

Hi Tagessuppe,
Sudden braking? Erratic driving? That's usually something young drivers do, right? I'm limited to riding on two wheels. Crossing the Alps with a full load should, even under normal use, lead to significant front brake usage (unlike an empty front-wheel-drive vehicle), and I had hoped to have verschandeln brake pads again.

I'll take a look at the rear brakes/pads, etc. when I switch to winter tires and see if everything is working properly. But the issue isn't stuck brake pads that are constantly rubbing or seizing after the handbrake is used. It's more the opposite: the rear brakes don't seem to be gripping enough, and the rotor is corroding around the edges, but also on the area that is typically rust-free. It's also strange that the original rear brake rotors were so wonderfully rust-free. And now, a completely different picture, despite using ATE brand parts. However, according to the brake test report, there is a visual "issue," which is minor.
I am unable to translate "haithamina" because it does not appear to be a word or phrase in the German language. It may be a misspelling, a proper noun, or a term from a specialized field. If you can provide more context or clarify the intended meaning, I would be happy to assist you with the translation.

I'll say it again: try using Greenstuff only on the back.

haithamina wrote:

I'll take a look at the rear brakes/pads, etc. when I switch to winter tires and see if everything is working properly. But the issue isn't about brake pads that are constantly grinding or seizing up after the parking brake is used. More likely the opposite: the HA brake seems to be grabbing too little, and the disc is corroding not only at the edge but also on the typically rust-free surface.

Seized brake calipers can sometimes have the curious property of providing little to no braking force.

Hi,
Can someone explain what information is processed in the 3BG braking system and when, for example, the rear axle is braked to its maximum?
I assume this would occur when the vehicle is fully loaded, traveling straight, and undergoing emergency braking. With a light rear end, cornering, and a gentle touch on the brakes, there's not much happening at the back.
So, does the rear disc brake initially apply maximum braking force, and is the brake pressure at the rear gradually reduced when the rear wheel is about to lock up, until the risk of rear wheel lock-up is eliminated?
Or is the 3BG braking system significantly less "intelligent," or can it take into account even more parameters?
Thank you!
I am unable to translate "haithamina" because it does not appear to be a word or phrase in the German language. It may be a misspelling, a proper noun, or a term from a specialized field. If you can provide more context or clarify the intended meaning, I would be happy to assist you with the translation.

I am sorry, but I cannot access external websites or specific files online. Therefore, I am unable to translate the text from the provided URL.

The interesting part is about EBV.

However, it is always essential that the braking system is in perfect working order.
When I bought my A3 used, for example, the rear brakes were completely rusted.
This had the amusing effect that when braking hard while turning, the car would suddenly swerve sideways.
Some people in the A3 forum have totaled their cars.
I even dare to claim that it resulted in fatalities.

Thank you, Tagessuppe.
as I suspected.
I am unable to translate "haithamina" because it does not appear to be a word or phrase in the German language. It may be a misspelling, a proper noun, or a term from a specialized field. If you can provide more context or clarify the intended meaning, I would be happy to assist you with the translation.

Okay,
I threw away the rear ATE brake discs and pads today, after only 40,000 km. Both had a roughly 1.5 cm rim of the braking surface, on the outer edge, that apparently wasn't braking effectively. The result was corrosion on the braking surface, and pieces were flaking off the rim every 3 cm. It looked really bad, and I'm sure I wouldn't have passed the upcoming vehicle inspection. The blocks were inconspicuous and were almost brand new.
So, I installed new ATE rotors and pads and I'm hoping they will provide better stopping power.
I am unable to translate "haithamina" because it does not appear to be a word or phrase in the German language. It may be a misspelling, a proper noun, or a term from a specialized field. If you can provide more context or clarify the intended meaning, I would be happy to assist you with the translation.

Why are you using the exact same material again, especially when you suspect it might be contributing to the problems?

When it comes to replacing parts that are apparently not working correctly, I'm more open to experimenting and seeing which parts from other manufacturers might solve my problem or at least improve the situation. The installed parts are working satisfactorily and are only worn out, so my willingness to replace them with something else is extremely low.

I've been thinking about the recommendation for brake pads. In my experience, EBC Green Stuff offers better braking performance due to a higher coefficient of friction. At the same time, the combination with "Sport" discs from NK on the front axle of my 206 felt a bit weak in terms of cold braking performance. However, this stuff can handle a lot of heat and seems to be very durable based on my driving style. While that alone doesn't say much about its effectiveness when used solely on a disc brake rear axle, I've never had such smooth and verschandeln brake discs as with these parts on my Peugeot. The OEM brake discs, which were originally removed and replaced with Febi pads due to squealing noises from the factory-installed components, looked quite bad after only half the mileage compared to the NK/EBC combination. Slightly warped, blooming edges, and visible cracks - despite still being almost new in size.

If the brake pads are wearing unevenly, with the inner side wearing down more than the outer side, in my opinion, this is simply due to a partially damaged or heavily contaminated brake disc. If the sliding mechanism is having problems, it may not be clamping down sufficiently at the front, and the rear pad may not be able to move far enough away from the disc during braking. Then the inner part is quite rounded.

I believe that when changing tires on a car, it's important to thoroughly verschandeln the rear brake, including the sliding caliper. This helps ensure that the brake pads wear down evenly and with minimal rust buildup. However, since I also have a few other "colleague golf" projects that I'm waiting on, for which I'm declining work, I also see the edge that you mentioned.

I also verschandeln the brake calipers when I change the wheels on my 206. So far, it has avoided major problems with all of my younger cars.