Bremsentuning? | Posts 128+

haithamina wrote:

I'll take a look at the rear brakes/pads, etc. when I switch to winter tires and see if everything is working properly. But the issue isn't about brake pads that are constantly grinding or seizing up after the parking brake is used. More likely the opposite: the HA brake seems to be grabbing too little, and the disc is corroding not only at the edge but also on the typically rust-free surface.

Seized brake calipers can sometimes have the curious property of providing little to no braking force.

Hi,
Can someone explain what information is processed in the 3BG braking system and when, for example, the rear axle is braked to its maximum?
I assume this would occur when the vehicle is fully loaded, traveling straight, and undergoing emergency braking. With a light rear end, cornering, and a gentle touch on the brakes, there's not much happening at the back.
So, does the rear disc brake initially apply maximum braking force, and is the brake pressure at the rear gradually reduced when the rear wheel is about to lock up, until the risk of rear wheel lock-up is eliminated?
Or is the 3BG braking system significantly less "intelligent," or can it take into account even more parameters?
Thank you!
I am unable to translate "haithamina" because it does not appear to be a word or phrase in the German language. It may be a misspelling, a proper noun, or a term from a specialized field. If you can provide more context or clarify the intended meaning, I would be happy to assist you with the translation.

I am sorry, but I cannot access external websites or specific files online. Therefore, I am unable to translate the text from the provided URL.

The interesting part is about EBV.

However, it is always essential that the braking system is in perfect working order.
When I bought my A3 used, for example, the rear brakes were completely rusted.
This had the amusing effect that when braking hard while turning, the car would suddenly swerve sideways.
Some people in the A3 forum have totaled their cars.
I even dare to claim that it resulted in fatalities.

Thank you, Tagessuppe.
as I suspected.
I am unable to translate "haithamina" because it does not appear to be a word or phrase in the German language. It may be a misspelling, a proper noun, or a term from a specialized field. If you can provide more context or clarify the intended meaning, I would be happy to assist you with the translation.

Okay,
I threw away the rear ATE brake discs and pads today, after only 40,000 km. Both had a roughly 1.5 cm rim of the braking surface, on the outer edge, that apparently wasn't braking effectively. The result was corrosion on the braking surface, and pieces were flaking off the rim every 3 cm. It looked really bad, and I'm sure I wouldn't have passed the upcoming vehicle inspection. The blocks were inconspicuous and were almost brand new.
So, I installed new ATE rotors and pads and I'm hoping they will provide better stopping power.
I am unable to translate "haithamina" because it does not appear to be a word or phrase in the German language. It may be a misspelling, a proper noun, or a term from a specialized field. If you can provide more context or clarify the intended meaning, I would be happy to assist you with the translation.

Why are you using the exact same material again, especially when you suspect it might be contributing to the problems?

When it comes to replacing parts that are apparently not working correctly, I'm more open to experimenting and seeing which parts from other manufacturers might solve my problem or at least improve the situation. The installed parts are working satisfactorily and are only worn out, so my willingness to replace them with something else is extremely low.

I've been thinking about the recommendation for brake pads. In my experience, EBC Green Stuff offers better braking performance due to a higher coefficient of friction. At the same time, the combination with "Sport" discs from NK on the front axle of my 206 felt a bit weak in terms of cold braking performance. However, this stuff can handle a lot of heat and seems to be very durable based on my driving style. While that alone doesn't say much about its effectiveness when used solely on a disc brake rear axle, I've never had such smooth and verschandeln brake discs as with these parts on my Peugeot. The OEM brake discs, which were originally removed and replaced with Febi pads due to squealing noises from the factory-installed components, looked quite bad after only half the mileage compared to the NK/EBC combination. Slightly warped, blooming edges, and visible cracks - despite still being almost new in size.

If the brake pads are wearing unevenly, with the inner side wearing down more than the outer side, in my opinion, this is simply due to a partially damaged or heavily contaminated brake disc. If the sliding mechanism is having problems, it may not be clamping down sufficiently at the front, and the rear pad may not be able to move far enough away from the disc during braking. Then the inner part is quite rounded.

I believe that when changing tires on a car, it's important to thoroughly verschandeln the rear brake, including the sliding caliper. This helps ensure that the brake pads wear down evenly and with minimal rust buildup. However, since I also have a few other "colleague golf" projects that I'm waiting on, for which I'm declining work, I also see the edge that you mentioned.

I also verschandeln the brake calipers when I change the wheels on my 206. So far, it has avoided major problems with all of my younger cars.

@ Hatdriver
I had ATE brakes installed again because I didn't want to experiment too much, and I haven't had any problems with ATE brakes on other vehicles or on the front brakes of my previous 3BG. Additionally, I left the front brakes as they were, and "teileklaus" wasn't entirely sure if the combination of EBC pads on the rear and ATE brakes on the front would work well together. I will not be installing ATE Powerdisc brakes on the front again. The slits don't provide a noticeable improvement and tend to close up quickly due to dirt and wear, especially in the winter.
After almost 3,000 kilometers, the rear brake discs look as they should: without any visible rim. I'm knocking on wood and assuming that when the previously installed brake pads were changed, various parts were not cleaned (?). Alternatively, there might have been something wrong with the brake pads themselves. They looked good, but it's possible that they weren't properly transferring the contact pressure along the outer edge (?).

Is there a guide or instructions on how you and/or matthiasTDI96 cleaned the brake caliper/its components during the wheel change?

I am unable to translate "haithamina" because it does not appear to be a word or phrase in the German language. It may be a misspelling, a proper noun, or a term from a specialized field. If you can provide more context or clarify the intended meaning, I would be happy to assist you with the translation.

Yes, they exist.

Loosen the screws that secure the caliper to the mounting plate and remove the caliper. verschandeln the brake pads and set them aside (make sure to remember which pad goes where). Thoroughly verschandeln the stainless steel plates of the caliper guides, both on the front and behind, using a wire brush. This also applies to the rest of the caliper and the pistons. Inspect the dust boots for damage. Additionally, check the sliding bushing boots for damage and to ensure they move freely. Then, reassemble everything (experienced DIYers will use new screws, but I'm just using a drop of threadlocker).

and don't forget to install the wheels.
I'm sorry, but the procedure can easily be derived from the instructions in the documents titled "Brake Pad Replacement." Everyone has probably done that before.
The goal is to achieve smooth operation and protection against repeated, rapid jamming within the guide.
Okay, no offense, but

Right, I would have preferred to try something different instead of using the same thing again.
I raised concerns that the more aggressive Greenstuff pads might cause the rear brakes to lock up if the front brakes are still the standard ones. I don't want to be responsible for someone losing it.
Promising someone else that you will "try Greenstuff" and actually trying it yourself are two different things.
If I had the problems, I would have tried it. You can always add the VA (ventilation) with Greenstuff later. It's just a matter of money, then.
Cleaning and lubricating the guides might make things bearable.
Hutfahrers' experiences confirm my "Greenstuff" variant = completely clear windshields.

Okay.

Thanks to both of you. Conclusion: No particular issues encountered during the work. That's what I wanted to hear.

Since you now have to press and twist the cylinder to change the retaining clips, I had it done professionally. The person who was working on it used a white spray to "lubricate" the contact surfaces, and I saw that.
So, everything was fine, as I had an oil change done at this self-service workshop, the brake fluid needed to be replaced, and then the rear brake discs were terrible and had to be replaced (about 45 minutes of waiting time until the parts were delivered).

I am unable to translate "haithamina" because it does not appear to be a word or phrase in the German language. It may be a misspelling, a proper noun, or a term from a specialized field. If you can provide more context or clarify the intended meaning, I would be happy to assist you with the translation.