Bremsentuning? | Posts 128+

haithamina wrote:

I will take a look at the rear brakes/pads, etc. when I switch to winter tires and see if everything is working properly. But it's not about brake pads that are stuck and constantly grinding or seizing after using the handbrake. Rather, it's the opposite: the rear brakes don't seem to be gripping enough, and the rotor is corroded not only on the edge but also on the area that is typically rust-free.

Sometimes, seized brakes have the peculiar property of providing little to no braking power.

Hi,
Can someone explain what information is processed within the 3BG braking system and when, for example, the maximum braking force is applied to the rear axle?
I assume this would happen when the vehicle is fully loaded, traveling in a straight line, and undergoing emergency braking. With a light rear end, cornering, and gentle braking, there is little happening at the rear.
So, does the rear axle brake initially apply maximum braking force, and is the brake pressure at the rear wheels then reduced until/before the rear axle starts to lock up?
Or is the 3BG braking system significantly less "intelligent," or can it take into account even more parameters?
Thank you!
haithamina

http://www.passat3b.de/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=60368

The interesting information is about EBV.

However, it is always essential that the braking system is in perfect working order.
When I bought my used A3, for example, the rear brakes were completely rusted.
This had the amusing effect that when braking hard while turning, the car would suddenly swerve sideways.
Some people in the A3 forum have totaled their cars.
I even dare to claim that it caused deaths.

Thank you, Tagessuppe.
So, as I suspected.
haithamina

Okay,
"I had to replace the rear ATE brake discs and pads today, after only 40,000 km. Both had a roughly 1.5 cm rim of the braking surface, on the outer edge, that apparently wasn't braking effectively. This resulted in corrosion on the braking surface, and pieces were breaking off from the rim every 3 cm. It looked really bad, and I'm sure I wouldn't have passed the upcoming vehicle inspection. The brake pads were fine and looked almost new."
So, I installed new ATE rotors and pads and I hope they perform better/provide better braking.
haithamina

Warum verbaust Du exakt das gleiche Material wieder, wenn Du es doch im Verdacht hast, an den Problemen nicht unschuldig zu sein?

When it comes to replacing parts that are clearly not working properly, I'm more open to experimenting and seeing which parts from other manufacturers might solve my problem or at least improve the situation. However, if the installed parts are working satisfactorily and are simply worn out, I am extremely reluctant to replace them with something else.

I've been thinking about the recommendation for brake pads. In my experience, EBC Green Stuff offers better braking performance due to a higher friction coefficient. At the same time, the combination with "Sport" discs from NK on the front axle of my 206 felt a bit weak in cold braking conditions. However, this stuff can handle a lot of heat and seems to be very durable based on my driving style. While that alone doesn't say much about its effectiveness when used solely on a disc brake rear axle, I've never had such smooth and clean brake discs as with these parts on my Peugeot. The OEM discs that were removed at the time, along with Febi pads that were installed during the warranty period due to squealing noises from the factory-installed components, looked pretty bad after only half the mileage of the NK/EBC combination. They were rusty, had blooming edges, and visible cracks, despite still being almost new in terms of dimensions.

If the brake pads are wearing unevenly, with the inner side wearing down more than the outer side, in my opinion, this is simply due to a partially damaged or heavily contaminated brake disc. If the sliding mechanism is having problems, it may not be clamping down sufficiently at the front, and when braking, the rear pad may not be able to move far enough away from the disc. In that case, the inner part of the disc will appear quite convex.

"I follow the same principle when it comes to golf clubs: I always make sure to thoroughly clean the rear brake during tire changes, including the sliding bearing. This ensures that the brake discs wear down evenly with minimal rust formation. However, since I also maintain a few other colleagues' golf clubs, where I don't perform this particular task, I also see the edge you mentioned on those."

I also clean the brake calipers on my 206 every time I change the wheels. So far, this has prevented major problems on all of my newer cars.

@ Hatdriver
I had ATE brake pads installed again because I didn't want to experiment too much, and I haven't had any problems with ATE in the past, on other vehicles and on the front brakes of my 3BG. Additionally, I left the front brakes as they were, and "teileklaus" wasn't entirely sure if a combination of EBC pads on the rear and ATE on the front would work well together. I won't be using ATE Powerdisc brake pads again (on the front). The slots don't provide any noticeable improvement, and they tend to get clogged quickly with dirt and debris, especially in the winter.
After almost 3,000 kilometers, the rear brake discs look as they should: without any visible rim. I'm knocking on wood and assuming that when the previously installed brake pads were changed, various parts were not cleaned (?). Alternatively, something might have been wrong with the brake pads themselves. Although they looked good, it's possible that they weren't applying even pressure along the outer edge (?).

Is there a guide or instructions on how you and/or matthiasTDI96 cleaned the brake caliper/its components during the wheel change?

haithamina

Yes, they exist.

Loosen the screws on the caliper that attach it to the mounting plate and remove the caliper. Clean the brake pads and set them aside (make sure to remember which one goes where). Thoroughly clean the stainless steel plates of the guides on the caliper itself, as well as the area behind them, using a wire brush. This also applies to the rest of the caliper and the pistons. Inspect the dust boots for damage. Additionally, check the sliding bushing boots for damage and to ensure they move freely. Then, reassemble everything (experienced DIYers should use new screws, but I'll just use a drop of threadlocker).

and don't forget to install the wheels.
"I'm sorry, but the procedure can easily be derived from the instructions in the document titled 'Brake Pad Replacement.' Everyone has probably done it this way before."
The goal is to achieve smooth operation and protection against the guide rail jamming again quickly.
Okay, no offense, but

Right, I would have preferred to try something different instead of using the same thing again.
I raised concerns that the more aggressive Greenstuff brake pads might cause the rear brakes to lock up if the front brakes are the standard ones. I don't want to be responsible for causing a skid.
Promising someone else that "Greenstuff will work great" and actually trying it out yourself are two different things.
If I had the problems, I would have tried it. You can always add the VA (ventilation) with Greenstuff later. It's just a matter of money then.
Perhaps cleaning and lubricating the guides will make things bearable enough.
Hutfahrers' experiences confirm my "Greenstuff" variant = completely clear discs.

Okay.

Thanks to both of you. Conclusion: everything is working normally. That's what I wanted to hear.

Since changing the brake pads now requires both pushing and turning the cylinder, I had it done by a mechanic. I saw that the mechanic used a white spray to "lubricate" the contact surfaces.
So, everything was fine. I had an oil change done at this self-service workshop, the brake fluid needed to be replaced, and then the rear brake discs were terrible and had to be replaced (about 45 minutes of waiting time until the parts were delivered).

haithamina