Querlenker: neu kaufen oder Buchsen ein-aus-pressen | Posts 16+

31-05-2006, 9:46 Subject:

Go to a local accessory shop. I got mine there before. I still unfortunately believe that cheap, imitation branded products are commonly sold on eBay. QL components are quite frequently requested replacement parts, so it might be worthwhile to reproduce them.

Otherwise, why don't you go with VW? You'll pay a few euros more, but you won't have any worries. If those eBay items break down after just one year, it's going to get even more expensive. Otherwise, you could also ask a local independent garage; they should all be able to do that.

31-05-2006, 10:08 Subject:

Quote:

Otherwise, you could also ask a local garage, as they should all be able to do the pressing.

I also thought that you couldn't really go wrong with Conti tires...

I know people who would

even press me flat...

m
who is currently somewhat annoyed by freieWerkstätten.

31-05-2006, 10:23 Subject:

dieselmartin

Many VW/Audi dealerships now also offer "ID parts," which are usually significantly cheaper. However, they will only provide information about these parts upon request, if they are available.

Just ask one or two dealers.

31-05-2006, 18:48 Subject:

Okay,

I was just fiddling around with the wet undercarriage of my car...

The G3 QL speakers are definitely NOT symmetrical, but they are installed that way.

That is to say, the differences highlighted in green above can be found on every G3: On one side, there's a "depression" at the bottom, while on the other side, it's at the top.

31-05-2006, 19:22 Subject:

Quote:

Our control arms are manufactured in ISO 9000 certified facilities in Spain and Turkey.

Can you buy them, or is it better not to?

Lemförder belongs to ZF, which gives me much more confidence, but of course, that's just a gut feeling.

(and can be misleading, see Michelin and the C-Class).
I am sorry, but I cannot access external websites or specific files online. Therefore, I am unable to translate the text from the provided URL.

m;

01-06-2006, 21:02 Subject:

@Dieselmartin

Quote:

Our control arms are manufactured in ISO 9000 certified facilities in Spain and Turkey.

What does that say? - NOTHING.

Stay away from that stuff. Believe me, this will backfire.

You can get new control arms from either Lehmförderer or from VW.
I would stay away from all the others.

If you really want to save money, just replace the rear brake calipers, as they only cost about 16 euros each from VW. The front rubber bands are usually still...
i.O.

Since the metal casing of the cartridges is made of aluminum, pressing them in is not a problem at all and can be done with any decent vise.
If you remove the rubber seals from the old bearings, you can use a saw blade to cut along the length of the bearing's outer race. This causes the tension to dissipate, and the fragment can be easily removed.

If the front axle appears to be otherwise in good condition, you might be able to skip the wheel alignment for now or have it done later. Just make sure to loosen the ball joints at the shock absorber, not at the control arm.

04-06-2006, 20:05 Subject:

Hello,

I've just finished working on my Golf. I have now replaced the control arms including the bearings, the tie rods and stabilizer bar links and bearings, the ball joints, and the wheel bearings.
I was surprised at how easily the screws on the control arms came loose. The screws in the longitudinal member showed no signs of rust. However, the screws in the engine mount did have some rust. They turned out well, though.
Even upon closer inspection, I couldn't detect any differences between the control arms from VW and Lemförder. I have a clear conscience.
I can also recommend the wheel bearing puller sets from NORDEC. While I'm not a fan of overly cheap tools, this one worked wonderfully and didn't break.
As a result, the car is now running smoothly again, which was likely due to the wheel bearings. The left-wing camp was running like an old coffee grinder.
So far, I haven't noticed any significant improvements in the handling, even though the rear bushings on the QL were already torn.
The slight pull to the left when accelerating is still present.

Sure, here's the translation:

"P.S." I just took it for another drive, and the steering response has definitely improved.

06-06-2006, 9:50 Subject:

Can the stabilizer bushings be replaced on the axle housing without having to loosen anything else?

So, just loosen the two screws, remove the two rubber blocks, and replace them with new ones?

m;
It starts tonight...

14-06-2006, 22:29 Subject:

The DIY project failed due to my garage being too small, the ball joint clamp bolts being severely rusted, and my extreme lack of motivation.

VW made it happen today at a good price.

The car feels much more direct in the steering... however, you can now also feel the sloppy rear end more noticeably (the rear bearings are being replaced in two weeks).

m;

15-06-2006, 16:32 Subject:

Hello,

The clamping screws also put up a good fight for me, but eventually, they lost.
Do you have the rear bearings replaced at VW? Do you already have a price for it?

15-06-2006, 19:45 Subject:

HI,

The rear suspension is different between the standard Golf and the Golf Estate (Variant).
The variant has two half-bearings each, which results in a shallower insertion depth and therefore makes it easier to replace.

A local garage wants 220 EUR to replace the wheel bearings with Febi/Bilstein bearings (because I have ABS, which means I don't have a brake force distribution system that would be in the way). He initially quoted a price of 300 for a non-ABS version.
I don't have prices for a regular golf game.

VW has estimated 250 time units (TE) for the axle removal and installation (100 TE = 80 EUR) plus 4 times 32 EUR for parts, totaling 328 EUR. I'm not sure anymore if brake fluid service is included.
Sure, here's the translation:

"I also asked for a variant here."

m;

PS: For a standard golf cart, you have 2 bearings costing 32 EUR each. You can find pictures of the parts on eBay.