Rauchentwicklung beim ARL | Posts 16+

Okay, regarding the ARL engine. How many kilometers are on the engine? How was it driven? How old is it?
I know that we've had soot issues before, likely due to worn-out glow plugs. Some of them have even been replaced at 80,000 km. Misfiring and poor atomization are also contributing factors.

The charger was replaced, and nothing was added. The adjustment was insufficient because it was making noise, and I know that would normally be acceptable.

Basically, I have no idea how the car was driven before, as I bought it myself a few months ago with 40,000 km on the odometer.

It's possible that the smoke seems so prominent because the exhaust pipes are pointing directly outwards.

What part numbers are available for the programmable control unit that is compatible with my main control unit?

Based solely on your logs, I can't explain the soot behavior. The boost pressure build-up seems fine to me; that's just a drawback of the "larger" turbocharger. The slight overshoot suggests the VTG (Variable Turbine Geometry) isn't perfectly adjusted, but I think that's still acceptable. There's no indication of a VTG jam or anything like that. It's also normal that you're driving at 1700 RPM in the soot limit. The ARL (Anti-Runaway Limiter) doesn't really kick in until 1800 RPM. If you want more power (with soot), there's still more potential to be gained at lower RPMs.
The error that VW found likely didn't have a significant impact, as your turbocharger's boost pressure is within the expected range for an ARL engine, so there's probably very little "loss of power" from the turbine.
I would advise you to have a reputable chip tuner adjust the software, as I don't think there's a mechanical defect.
I'm using a software version from the Leon (a fairly new version) for my G4 ARL engine, and even in the standard settings, it makes a noticeable difference.

Okay, it's been almost a year since I've been driving around in my old, smoky tractor.
Despite multiple repair attempts, the experts I consulted were unable to identify the problem, but they acknowledged that it was 'producing a significant amount of smoke.'
'Nice!! And what is it?'

Both pressure sensors and the mass airflow sensor were replaced. All vacuum hoses were temporarily closed and then reopened, and the EGR valve was cleaned, but none of these actions had any effect.
It's gotten so bad now that you have to be happy if you don't need anything from the trunk, because otherwise, you'll end up with coal-black hands when you have to open it again.
The bumper looks even worse!

In the meantime, I have driven 75,000 km on the needle and I am still searching for the smoke.
It's especially bad at 1600 RPM; you can't see anything out of the rearview mirror anymore!
Do you have any other ideas about what it could be?
Perhaps I can provide you with some logs that might be helpful.


Thank you in advance.

g1om wrote:

The AGR was temporarily closed and then reopened and cleaned, but all to no avail. It's now so bad that you have to be happy if you don't need anything from the trunk, otherwise you'll have coal-black hands when you have to close it again. The bumper looks even worse! It's especially bad at 1600 RPM; you can't see anything out of the rearview mirror anymore! Do you have any other ideas about what it could be?

Some time ago, we had a story here about a Galaxy(?) where the EGR sludge had clogged one of the intake channels so severely that the cylinder was barely getting any air.
Then, the full amount of fuel was injected (because the misfire wasn't necessarily due to a lack of air, as the other three cylinders were still exchanging gases relatively normally), and the cylinder that wasn't getting enough air produced an excessive amount of soot.

I could imagine that the same symptoms might occur in your engine. However, you won't be able to see the problem until you remove the intake manifold, and it's also a good idea to take a look inside the intake channels in the cylinder head as a precaution.

Hmm, only one cylinder? Okay, I'll take the collector off and let you know what I find.

Yesterday, I finally got the chance to take apart that awesome intake manifold.
That thing is really poorly designed.
Okay, on the topic, I haven't found anything, but I also haven't looked for anything!
I adjusted the AGR valve again, but it probably wasn't necessary.
I also took a closer look at the entire vacuum hose assembly and found a hose that was already very 'kinked' despite its shape.
Unfortunately, none of that helped, it's still smoking.

What is the exact function of the check valve in the vacuum hose?
Could there be a connection between the smoke and a brake pedal that becomes stiff after a longer period of inactivity?

Hello,
Do you happen to have any photos of the inside of the intake manifold? Was everything actually clean in there?
haithamina

Unfortunately, I don't have any pictures of the collector, but it was very clean except for a thin layer directly on the EGR valve. There was only a slight amount of residue in the channels and in the head, which could be easily removed with a single wipe.

Furthermore, after the cleaning, there is generally more smoke produced now than before, at least when viewed in the mirror.

Are those tax rates still conceivable?
Could I find any relevant information using VAG-Com?
Unfortunately, I didn't find anything during my search, but I think I remember having read something about it before.

g1om wrote:

Furthermore, after the cleaning, there is generally more smoke production now than before. At least, that's what it looks like when viewed in the mirror. Are those tax rates still conceivable? Could I find any relevant information using VAG-Com? I unfortunately didn't find anything during my search, but I think I remember having read something about it before.

The EGR is definitely closed at least under full load.

Quote:

The EGR was temporarily closed and then reopened and cleaned, but all without any success.

Kannst Du einen LD-Verlust durch ein Leck irgendwo zwischen Verdichter und Motor (einschl. LLK!) sicher ausschließen? Oil leak traces?

Is the engine (badly) chipped?

Perform a full-throttle run from approximately 1500 to 4300 rpm, while simultaneously monitoring both MWB 8 and MWB 10 in 3rd gear or higher. Normal soot issues should be detectable in that range.
And while you're at it, please repeat the same process with MWB 8 and 11 simultaneously.

If a particulate diesel filter (PDF) malfunctions and injects excessive amounts of fuel, it should hopefully be visible in the long-term data recording (LLR): Log MWB 1 and 13 simultaneously, both at idle and while driving, including the area where it produces the most soot.

Unfortunately, I have oil leaks. There are minimal oil leaks at both connections to the transmission cooler, but I haven't been able to eliminate them. I've already replaced the seals several times, but it doesn't work. After about a week, the area is oily again.
Even the good BMW gaskets from the M57TU 330d, which are slightly thicker, didn't make a difference.

While BMW offers a tool to check the tightness of the new N54 engines (biturbo) in the charge air duct, the connectors on the tool simply don't fit.

If you can give me a tip on how to fix this without having to replace the LLK (low-level coolant kit) and both pressure hoses, I would be grateful because those three things are really expensive.
expensive.


No chip is installed; everything is stock.

I'll create the logs when I have time.

g1om wrote:

Unfortunately, I have oil leak traces. I have minimal

oil leaks at both connections to the LLK , but I can't seem to eliminate them. }The crucial point is how much air can be lost there when there is boost pressure.
Some of these spots seal well under pressure, but without pressure, a small amount of oil leaks out -> which is completely harmless.

From a gut feeling }, I would still consider a total leakage area of up to approximately 0.3 cm² to be largely non-critical, even considering the aspect of soot.

Leaks can be insidious, as they may only open wide under pressure and may not show any visible oil stains around them.
This should be reflected in the LuMa/LD ratio in the MWB 10, provided that the LD sensor and LMM are functioning correctly.

This weekend, I collected some logs, which my friend R00KIE has processed for me, and I hope to make them available to you soon.

However, something quite strange caught my attention while I was looking at the 'should/is' values.

When I'm in the default mode (MWB 11) and observe the boost pressure at 1400 1/min, I notice that in this range, with the VTG (Variable Turbine Geometry) not activated, I have less pressure than the actual ambient air pressure! According to the target values, it should be at least equal to the ambient air pressure.
With the VTG fully engaged, I observed a pressure difference of 180 mbar, which is generally acceptable.

Is it possible that the charger is broken?

Okay, here are the logs, unfortunately only in tabular form because my amazing 'Winzigweich' product refuses to create an x-y diagram...

Regards, R00KIE.

Thank you, R00KIE, for the data.

I just heard from a good friend that I should take a closer look at the valve lifters, as there are apparently material weaknesses and wear on the camshaft.
Would this be a consideration?
Can we draw any conclusions from the data? What do you think?

It would be great if you could think of anything else I can check, or anything related to the data.
I think there's simply not enough lift (LD), or the camshaft lobes are worn down, which results in insufficient pressure, and consequently, poorer atomization.
What do you think about the camshaft theory?