Eine Nacht eingestecktes VCDS -> Batterie 9V | Posts 16+

Hi.

I have a 70 Ah battery installed.

Which brands/products would you recommend?

m;

Recommended batteries? That's basically like a fundamental discussion about the advantages and disadvantages of 5W40 from different manufacturers...

In the relevant forums, only people who are experiencing problems with the specific component or system tend to post. Consequently, you only read negative feedback. We could check if there are any batteries that seem to have problems more often than expected.

A 70 Ah battery block is available from virtually every manufacturer in a wide selection, provided that no exotic dimensions or terminal configurations are required. So far, I have not had any bad experiences with cheap batteries, with only one exception (a purchase from "real"; probably overstocked and improperly stored). I have purchased batteries from both small parts dealers and ATU. Their "Arctic" battery pack, with a capacity of 44 Ah, is now also in its sixth year of use and has already been installed in three different vehicles.

Yes, I know.

But I'm overwhelmed; the block in my G3 TDI lasted for 11 years!!!
I probably pushed the Passat too hard (drained the battery) too many times.

It's still running, although the start on the weekend at 2:30 AM in some random forest parking lot was "interesting" ... but he made it.

m;

I have mostly had bad experiences with Centro batteries so far.
The rest, as Hutfahrer says, is largely unremarkable.

TDI-GTI-4-Motion wrote:

I have mostly had bad experiences with Centro batteries so far. The rest, as Hutfahrer says, is largely unremarkable.

I can confirm that! They have a relatively short lifespan.

THE battery, and it's definitely "the," it MUST be feminine.

That annoying girl is now tagging along on all my short trips.
As soon as it gets a little colder, she'll secretly abandon me... of course!

What does it matter if she's being difficult again; she'll be replaced, meaning the battery .

m;

Hello everyone,
Hi Martin!

Based on my experience, I would highly recommend the M3 from Moll.
Whoever tries to save too much money here will inevitably end up in a difficult situation and will then end up buying twice as much (right, Spati? *lol*).
For me, it offers the optimal balance of price and performance, it's consistently a top performer in tests, and (at the time?) it was an original equipment supplier for Audi.
In my case, or rather, in our case, the batteries are subjected to extreme stress in all sorts of ways (short trips, auxiliary heating, long periods of inactivity, etc.), and they have consistently performed well over many years.
They always announced the end of life (after >5 years) gradually, at least a year in advance, and not suddenly. B. by plate closure).

Best regards from Munich!

Yes, I've also noticed the M3 positively... while browsing.

"Announcements" I already had last winter... but I was able to ignore them by dismissing the notifications.

...meant that the (engine) cold start becomes noticeably more difficult gradually, and not suddenly.
In my opinion, a battery is likely damaged if it requires more than approximately 2/100 to 3/100 of its rated capacity as "maintenance charge" when being charged at 13.8V. The more [of something], the more likely it is that someone will die "right now, immediately."
Example: 70Ah, 2/100th = max. 140-210mA @20°C(!)

Ulf had also taken the time to write a beautiful piece in the spirit of the Enlightenment.

Best regards from Munich!

Even the most notoriously stingy car owner would proactively replace the battery given the circumstances. However, the battery in my 206 has so far been completely unremarkable. I'm confident that it will survive the upcoming winter, given my daily car usage and driving habits.

I refuse, for the time being, to buy a new battery .

Okay, so it happened again yesterday: 5 minutes of preheating (and the light turned on), but then it wouldn't start.

I would call it a "lack of capacity."
Why else would it start up without any problems?
For example, even this morning, after a damp and cold night?

Are the successful launches (which I didn't notice) so close to the edge that "even a degree colder" would mean failure?

I'm concerned with understanding, because I already know that I'll need a new one for the winter.

m;

If a new purchase is going to be necessary for the winter anyway, why not buy it now? The demand is still relatively low, and the selection is likely to be large. If everyone suddenly rushes to the stores with dead batteries, even common sizes might be unavailable, and you might have to take the model that's currently in stock.

You could also, if you can find a suitable supplier, order a dry cell battery and then activate it yourself. This offers the invaluable advantage of getting an absolutely new battery without an unknown storage time, which you can then assemble yourself. I have personally had very good experiences with this, even with very cheap batteries, and I would do it again anytime. Especially when I can wait! This offers the opportunity to reserve a dry-cell battery from your next order and ensure that you receive a brand-new one upon delivery.

What about those small "magic boxes" that are supposed to prevent or significantly slow down sulfation?

OK.

The new battery is installed.
Twice, it has already started up with it .

I'm still going to build my AHK charging connector.

What was there?

org VW.

They offered a very reasonable price and said they would take a look at the old one to see if they could salvage anything from it.

The new one is a banner.

m;

dieselmartin wrote:

The new battery is installed.

Good decision . My last factory-installed battery lasted exactly 3 years, so you're actually doing pretty well.

A battery that sometimes works and sometimes doesn't can be due to a broken cell connector. The vibration during starting, or... The crack either closes, or it opens.